Well, I've owned the Quota for 8 months now and it's still single... Gee, thought it'd be easy to get the Quota hitched. Hangups seem to be the Quotas rectangular frame tubing, the thousand mile distance from me to most of the hack mounting experts, and one local expert (Gary at Motorvation) talks suspiciously of welding lugs on the frame, and the other local expert (Lee Bruns) is busy as heck. Lee has been kind enough to sketch out a subframe for me though. But making said subframe would involve going way beyond my skill level. I'm halfway accomplished at twirling wrenches, but I still don't know how to weld, my workbench is an old wooden table, my vise is whatever vice grip or clamp works, my chop saw is a Sawzall, my drill press is a Milwaukee cordless drill, and I still haven't learned how to weld. So I'm wondering how overbuilt I have to make this. Compared to the airheads that have previously accompanied my hacks, The Quota frame is hell for stout, and of thicker gage everywhere. For example, the subframe that carries the engine and could host the front mounts is 20 x 30 x 4 mm. thick, and the main frame is even more massive. Thus I'm wondering if a subframe would be required. So here's the simplest mounting strategy I've devised, with the diamonds of hot pink duct tape where the mounts would go. The front upper mount is kinda hard to see behind the engine and fairing, but it would be one of Motorvation's clamp assemblies for round tubes with a bit of grinding to adapt the anvil to the Quota's ovalish rectangular tubes; The front lower mount is the same. The rear upper mount is one of Motorvation's clevises mounted into a 1/2' hole drilled into the frame, it's pretty meaty there and I believe this is the way Jay at DMC does his mounts. Jay, feel free to chime in. There's a couple options for the rear lower mount- there's a pair of 12 mm. or so bolts that attach the engine cradle subframe, or I could drill into the recessed part of the casting that those bolts pass through. Same as the first picture, except the front lower mount is moved from the downtube to the horizontal tube under the frame. Gets it a little farther from the front upper mount but closer to the rear lower mount, so not sure if this would be much of an improvement. Now we're gettin serious! The front lower clevis mount is inserted into a recess into the cast transition piece joining the downtube and lower horizontal subframe tube, getting that mount as far away from the other mounts as possible; The web of that casting looks to be about 4 mm. thick. The rear upper mount moves up as high as possible, making for a bigger "torque box" there and less stress on the frame. Bit more complicated, but probably within my fabbing abilities though. This is to the best of my memory (I lost the sheet of paper he sketched it on) Lee's belt and braces solution, ready for any conceiveable road and load! Lee's subframe layout is outlined in orange duct tape, wish the pink mount locations stuck out a bit better against the orange. Lee suggested 1-1/2" steel bar in 1/2" thickness for the horizontal member and 5/8" thickness for the vertical members. There's adequate clearance in most cases for that heavy a metal, and the footpegs can be moved out a bit with longer bolts. The subframe moves the front upper mount higher and forward and the rear mounts back an inch or so. It would be hell for stout, and there's a whole bunch of mounts for the rear subframe and such that could be tied into. Awesome design, but probably beyond my abilities to construct. So, any suggestions or opinions?