Mozambique on a KTM690

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Tapeworm, May 7, 2009.

  1. Tapeworm

    Tapeworm Ride it like you stole it

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Tanzania, East Africa
    The plan - From Indian Ocean to Lake Malawi and back.

    Based in Tanzania, we have been talking about this one for a long time and finally got a gap after a short rainy season left the area not-flooded for a change.

    "Prego no Pao" - as we planned it:

    [​IMG]


    The crew: Klavs (KTM690), Babu (KTM525), myself (KTM690)

    Pulling the bikes down to the Mozam border we ran into yet another KTM rider coming up from South Africa. These orange things are getting pretty popular in the bush over here...

    [​IMG]


    Heading for the border early sunday morning, we went 20km on broken tar in the wrong direction, with 2 gps switched on... finally figuring out how the arrow works, Babu's KTM started loosing power. Twisting the throttle, the problem seemed to go away momentarily. Looking back, Babu noticed a shiny back rack where his fender pack used to be and the smell of burning socks coming off the exhaust... Yup, a great start indeed...

    Babu's one and only T-shirt

    [​IMG]


    The new improved fender pack with the old medical kit ripped to bits (including the contents).

    [​IMG]


    Passing through the immigration and customs with no issues, we reached the river crossing. Starting price for a boat ride was $150 per person, but after Klavs's kiswahili bargaining skills kicked in, we got onboard for $25 each.

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    [​IMG]


    The Ruvuma river - 2km wide at the crossing point

    [​IMG]


    Finally into Mozambique and again no hassles at the border post. Moz can be quite dry and barren, but after the rainy season the jungle is lush green with elephant grass shooting up everywhere.

    [​IMG]


    With dry throats we chased through the twisties until we finally reached the coast in a cowboy town of note - Mocimboa da Praia. Feeling very pleased with my make-shift-rig for holding a giantloop bag, i noticed something black on the exhaust, that sidi boot kind a black...

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Finding some cold ones, spirits were high and things were looking promising with all the bugs sorted out, or so we thought.
    #1
  2. Sideoff

    Sideoff Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    693
    Location:
    Hood River, OR
    Awesome! Looking forward to more. Headed over to southern Moz with some buddies next US winter...
    #2
  3. GB

    GB . Administrator

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2002
    Oddometer:
    61,694
    Buckled in for an epic adventure :clap

    :lurk :lurk
    #3
  4. metaljockey

    metaljockey Dodgy SOB

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    279
    Location:
    Eastern Cape, South Africa
    Bliksems! This is going to be good, I can feel it in my pants.

    You've got scarily little luggage for a trip of that magnitude.
    #4
  5. DaveDownUnder

    DaveDownUnder n00b

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1
    Ready... you can start now.

    :bert
    #5
  6. ERIC DN

    ERIC DN Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    416
    Location:
    FRANCE
    Hi
    thanks to share, go a head more pics :clap :clap :clap

    Eric
    #6
  7. Chanderjeet

    Chanderjeet IndiYeah !!

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,841
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Mozambique - These afrika RRs are good.
    Keep going dudes.
    #7
  8. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Oddometer:
    8,592
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Yeah, another Africa RR. Bring it on.

    I like the pic of the kid bailing water out, encouraging.
    #8
  9. Tapeworm

    Tapeworm Ride it like you stole it

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Tanzania, East Africa
    Starting off the next morning with the usual bike maintenance, the plan was to stick to the coast all the way down to Pemba.


    Accommodation in Mocimboa da Praia, with AC!

    [​IMG]


    The port - most of the activity here is to run fresh supplies, water and building material to the exotic island resorts a few kilometers offshore.

    [​IMG]


    The breakfast spot

    [​IMG]


    The setup: Tank bag in front for spares, tools and map on top - use with gps on the fly, GL bag on the back (it takes a surprisingly huge load) with fishing rod on top. One thing that did not work well was the exhaust wrap i put on. It burned a couple of trousers while scooting through town, so i wrapped it - which worked, but as soon as i started throwing it down the twisties, my boot ate through the wrap and exposed the red hot mounting bracket for the original heat shield... guess the 60 engineers who designed it was right... so you learn... The Leo Vince pipe is just awesome, down here loud pipes saves lives.

    [​IMG]


    With a few tidal rivers on our route, the locals advised that it will not be possible to cross some of them. Hence we kept on asking around until we found someone who said there is a slight chance that it might be possible. That's all we needed to hear and off we went.

    Dense vegetation after the rains.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    The reason why they call it elephant grass...

    [​IMG]


    Halfway down our route, it turned out that those locals were right, it was not possible to cross the big tidal river on the coast and we headed inland looking for bridges.

    Momentary laps of concentration for me...

    [​IMG]


    ...and 30 seconds later for Klavs...

    [​IMG]


    Loosing a lot of time on this river loop, we had to steek it down to Pemba on some broken tar, which at least did not have any helmet high grass on it... Arriving in the dark we got accommodation, food and our dusty throats sorted out in no time at all.

    [​IMG]
    #9
  10. picoda

    picoda Dalmatia

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    221
    Location:
    Croatia
    veeeery nice :thumb :thumb
    #10
  11. Tapeworm

    Tapeworm Ride it like you stole it

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Tanzania, East Africa
    <o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" name="place"></o:smarttagtype><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id=ieooui></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--><o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" name="place"></o:smarttagtype><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id=ieooui></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> As per the usual bike inspection the next morning, we noticed Babu&#8217;s front sprocket was wearing out fast. With a small oil leak from the shaft seal, it seemed like the lubrication effect was not working, but it was creating a grinding paste with sand and dust, wearing it out quicker. So we went looking for some sprockets which could be modified onto the ktm if needed.

    Some pics from <st1:place w:st="on">Pemba</st1:place><o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>:</o:p>

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    <o:p></o:p>

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    One of the few west facing beaches in <st1:place w:st="on">East Africa</st1:place><o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

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    After scooting through town for a while with no luck, time was running out and we had to hit the road. Problem to be resolved at a later stage&#8230; On the way out, we popped in to say hi to one of Klavs&#8217;s mates. Turns out he had an old XR500 which is out of service. Luckily we found the engine with the sprocket still intact, taking it along for a spare. <o:p></o:p>


    [​IMG]


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    <o:p> </o:p>
    Gunning it out of <st1:place w:st="on">Pemba</st1:place>, we thought we will make our destination with very little night riding&#8230; As it turned out we reached &#8220;wild country&#8221; just as the sun sets with about 100km to go, single track in tall grass &#8211; giving you about 5 meter visibility with the headlight&#8230;<o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    <link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> We have done plenty of rides in Tanzania (where we live) in elephant, hippo and lion territory, but this was the first time that the hair on our necks were standing up&#8230; Getting stuck on trees that have been pushed over by elephant that same day and seeing flattened green grass where huge herds of buffalo just passed, got us a bit nervous to say the least. Also it&#8217;s not really advised to go off any track in this area due to the huge amount of landmines left over from the war. But for sure the worst case scenario would be to ride into a fresh lion kill, carrying no weapons, besides a leatherman and a pencil canister of pepper spray... As per the advice from fellow African rider Metaljockey &#8211; &#8220;use the leatherman to cut your own throat when they get you, there is no way out.&#8221;<o:p></o:p>

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    <link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Halfway through we got showered in cold rain as we were making our way up the escarpment, reaching our destination 3 hours into the night. Glad to be alive we celebrated with a warm beer enjoying the crowds of people around us for a change; even the hassling cop could not annoy us. Finding accommodation, we dried out some kit and had chocolate with whiskey for dinner.

    [​IMG]
    <o:p></o:p>


    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    #11
  12. pdedse

    pdedse paraelamigosincero

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,541
    Wow!! Got to the end and Bummer! It's on page 1 still. Unbelievable ride. This looks like one that I'll never be able to do. All of Africa looks that way to me, actually. Then again...
    #12
  13. wachs

    wachs just passin' through

    Joined:
    May 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,953
    Location:
    Tumalo, Oregon
    Excellent Willie! Thanks for taking the time to post . . . more please! :clap:clap:clap
    #13
  14. Roostn

    Roostn On the Throttle Stop

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2003
    Oddometer:
    299
    Location:
    Pine, Colorado, USA
    I HAVE GOT to remember that one! Keep it coming pal!
    #14
  15. dave6253

    dave6253 GCBAR Explorer

    Joined:
    May 1, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,702
    Location:
    Phoenix, Arizona
    :yikes

    :lurk
    #15
  16. Backcountryboy

    Backcountryboy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    215
    Location:
    Vancouver BC
    So different from my home in Canada, here we worry about zooming around a corner and whomping into a bear, or over a cougar, but from the size of those elephant footprints in your photos, we don't have anything to worry about here! This promises to be a great ride report.
    #16
  17. Tapeworm

    Tapeworm Ride it like you stole it

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Tanzania, East Africa
    <o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" name="City"></o:smarttagtype><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id=ieooui></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->Early next morning we decided to gun it on a breakfast run to the nearest town / establishment with food. A quick air filter check revealed the importance of running a filter screen in the bush...

    <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"></st1:place></st1:city>
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    <link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->
    With biltong strips down our necks, we headed west towards the town of Balama on some fast dirt. The main roads here are straight, but full of surprises and great fun on a 690. This bike was definitely designed with one thing in mind – full throttle racing! <o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    <link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->
    Discovering yet another road that only exists on the map, we arrived in the town of Montepuez instead. On empty stomachs, we headed straight for the pub<style>t Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> to have our first decent meal in 36 hours, whilst drying out in the sun.

    The local town folks are very relaxed and even though they might appear to be displeased by our presence, just crack a joke and watch them smile..<o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    <link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->
    Finishing off a great meal with a cold beer, it was time to inspect Babu’s sprocket. It didn't look good; the oil leak has worsened on the fast morning ride and teeth had 100km left...

    The final theory we concurred up to explain this phenomena is as follows:
    the spring washer that holds the sprocket firmly against the shaft seal ring was wearing out and loosing its 'elasticity', hence not pressing hard enough against the o-ring at the back, causing a more severe leak. (Shaft seal ring and O-ring were new).

    On the upside we did manage to find a new 520 chain in town – too short, so we bought 2 and rivet them together (still half the price of 1 DID original…)<o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]

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    With our used XR sprocket we had to find a way to cut out the core of both sprockets and then press the XR teeth over the KTM core. Luckily we were in the middle of nowhere, so we just popped into the local machine shop… No really…<o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]

    <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Found it in the local university and they had all the tools we need.

    The classroom

    [​IMG]

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    Our entire plan of reaching <st1:place w:st="on">Lake Malawi</st1:place> came down to this, cutting out the sprocket core…<o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]

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    Well, it turned out that the cutting bit they had was made from a softer steel than the one on the sprocket; hence it was only making a mark before it burned away. We were not going to see <st1:place w:st="on">Lake Malawi</st1:place> on this trip... Needless to say we were not too exited about this and decided to pull in for a siesta while Babu went to work on riveting his new chain.

    Just like the good old times - nodding off at the back of the class...

    [​IMG]


    Bike breakdowns can happen to anyone and our 690's do not have kick-starts or carburetors - they run on computers, which if they go - its end of the ride with no quick fixes or bush-mechanics to get them going. We have blown a CDI on a WR before, it is possible...

    A very "not-pleased Babu" fixing his chain.

    [​IMG]

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    We decided to return to <st1:place w:st="on">Pemba</st1:place> and look for a better machine shop, since it's a harbor town we knew we'd be sorted. Heading back down the main road was a bit nerve racking, with 5 feet grass on either side and kids appearing out of no where, surprising the crp out of you while the gas is wide open... At least with the Leo pipes, they are always looking in your direction, as opposed to the stock ones with which we picked up a couple of pedestrians (and 2 bicycles) over the handle bars...<o:p></o:p>
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    [​IMG]
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    Finding out why those chains were so cheap….<o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]


    <o:p></o:p>
    #17
  18. Tapeworm

    Tapeworm Ride it like you stole it

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Tanzania, East Africa
    With the objective changed from reaching Lake Malawi to making it back home on the bikes, we kicked into a more relaxed mode, enjoying what the local surroundings and culture had to offer. Babu and Kalvs went looking for a machine shop whilst i finally went fishing and by lunch time they had successfully merged the sprockets. Fishing was not as successful...

    The afternoon was spent exploring the town and its local pubs, getting the spirit back up and planning our homeward journey.

    Stepping on a sea urchin whilst fishing

    [​IMG]


    Portuguese sardines- surprisingly good

    [​IMG]


    Beach bars

    [​IMG]


    <LINK href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml" rel=File-List><STYLE> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </STYLE>Starting early the next morning, we found some good tracks heading north.<?xml:namespace prefix = o /><o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    <LINK href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml" rel=File-List><STYLE> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </STYLE>

    <LINK href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml" rel=File-List><STYLE> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </STYLE>Breakfast &#8211; grilled fat&#8230;<o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]


    <LINK href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml" rel=File-List><STYLE> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </STYLE>An exclusive roadside shop....<o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]


    ...selling biscuits and Chivas Regal...

    [​IMG]
    <LINK href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml" rel=File-List><STYLE> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </STYLE>

    Something to take care of is when approaching concrete bridges. The edges are exposed after the rains, making an excellent opportunity to go over the bars if you are not paying attention&#8230; Also, bridges are the one place where you do not want to wonder off the beaten track. They were heavily mined during the war and the construction companies only cleared the area necessary to construct the bridge. <o:p></o:p>

    <LINK href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml" rel=File-List><STYLE> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} a:link, span.MsoHyperlink {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; text-underline:single;} a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple; text-decoration:underline; text-underline:single;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </STYLE>[​IMG]
    <o:p></o:p>

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    Cruising back we were not as rushed and looked for alternative routes. Some random pics from the return journey:
    <o:p></o:p>

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    <LINK href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml" rel=File-List><STYLE> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </STYLE>
    [​IMG]

    <LINK href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Craatswil%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml" rel=File-List><STYLE> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Verdana; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:536871559 0 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </STYLE>
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    A quick mention of some stuff that worked really well on the trip:
    (Don't know if this allowed - just let me know and i will delete)
    • Giantloop fender bag - Great idea, works like charm, takes a huge load, very comfortable on the bike, zipper access could be bigger.
    • Garmin 276C - Works great with Touratech bracket, nice big display (needs to be on power cable day and night for backlight effect) - no complaints.
    • Garmin 60 CSx - Simply brilliant - 20,000km and no problems. Some fellow riders had battery terminal problem, but fixable.
    • Zackspeed chest protectors with integrated backpacks - 100 times more comfortable than anything i have ever used and it works well with the leatt neck brace. 10/10
    • Mousses - expensive, but sure saves you a lot of time / worries. Feels good to know that you do not need to worry about punctures, especially when riding in big game tracks at night.
    • Reise know how Maps - Rip-and-waterproof, highly detailed, simply awesome!
    Approaching the border, we had one more problem - the 525 just cut out and the spark was gone. We tested the spark plug cap and the coil, no problems there. At the time of this RR we still don't know what went wrong since Babu is away on travels. Will reply once we have figured out what broke, maybe the CDI??

    [​IMG]


    As fate would have it, the 525 cut out right next to missionary's house, with the pick-up standing in the driveway... At least a bit of luck!

    [​IMG]


    Twisty sandy tracks - 690 country.

    [​IMG]


    Babu - always time for a smile (even tho his bike died, the boat is heavily overloaded and he has 50km to go...)

    [​IMG]


    TIA...

    [​IMG]


    Getting there

    [​IMG]


    Home sweet home - Tanzania

    [​IMG]


    Ja well, we did not reach lake Malawi on this one, but we had some splendid screwups, great riding, cold beers and loads of sunshine - great adventure indeed.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers
    #18
  19. ERIC DN

    ERIC DN Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    416
    Location:
    FRANCE
    Brilliant, :clap :clap :clap thanks

    A small advice, buy an XR :rofl :rofl :rofl
    #19
  20. dtysdalx2

    dtysdalx2 PITA but useful

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,812
    Location:
    Moneyapolis, MN
    Wholly sh!t! This is a EPIC dual sport ride that I want to participate in someday.

    :bow Thanks for sharing!

    Note: Hardened steel sprockets don't cut very well, with anything...
    #20