Mutilating an offroader into some sort of scrambler

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Dino de Laurentiis, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Looking good! I would treat the areas with a rust converter and go with a metal bondo type filler. But others may have a better idea.
    #21
  2. Bt10

    Bt10 Been here awhile

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    Just some options - I never grind away good metal chasing the deepest pits; I just sandblast. Rust eating acid and braze would be a good option, otherwise the converter and paint.

    :lurk
    #22
  3. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Yeah, we do have a soda blasting setup but the cabinet can only take smaller items. Long time readers of ADVrider might know the perils of soda blasting....

    Some of the metal I needed to remove here, especially the spot welded remains of the screw on sheet metal strip.
    #23
  4. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    What is a good brand of rust converter?

    You think metal epoxy/bondo is fine also on the sides? I’m just a bit concerned with the thinness of the metal there after grinding, and if there’d be any eventual leak through a rust pin prick, it’d risk ruin the paint since the metal epoxy probably isn’t as vapor proof as lead filler?
    #24
  5. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    I use this: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html Makes a really nice paintable surface. I am sure that bondo would stick nicely. I am not so sure that lead over rust is a good idea. As for tank rust, if you have it, you need to treat and seal it too. Rust on the inside will only get worse over time. If you convert the rust on the outside, that stops it dead.
    #25
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  6. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    Cheap rust converter is CLR (calcium, lime, rust) the grey bottled bathroom cleaner. It is a great pre primer for rusty metal. As for rusty tanks, I've had great results with grind to bare metal, brake cleaner, and then JB weld... JB weld cures great with some heat (like a light bulb)
    #26
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  7. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Right, I didn’t mean to leave the rust as it is. Just that any metal left after rust removal would be so thin that it’d vibrate open into a tiny leak or that rust removal itself would cause these pin prick leaks that are sometimes hard to spot with the naked eye. Maybe I’m just overly cautious? After all, I’ve used metal epoxy to seal a crack in the stator cover, and it hasn’t started leaking in the more than 16 000 km I’ve driven since.

    Inside of tank looks spotless as far as I can tell, no visible rust.
    #27
  8. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Ok, good to hear. Maybe I’ll just go with the metal epoxy then. Certainly nicer to work with.
    #28
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  9. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    It's worth noting that when sanding epoxy and metal the epoxy sands faster and will often create a subtle shallow area... Take some care when doing this and maybe use some bondo to blend it all together.
    #29