My 640 is making oil>>>>>>

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Zerodog, Aug 30, 2006.

  1. Zerodog

    Zerodog Long timer

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    Wow! I don't know where this came from. I am not using the dial indicator for measuring valve lash. I used it to find TDC on the top of the piston. I don't even understand why you would put yourself through that kind of hell. But what ever works good for you. I think Creeper's method is a good rule of thumb for finding TDC. I just like knowing the absolute TDC when doing that stuff. I guess it just makes me feel better. Feeler gauges are more than enough to measure valve lash. I am sure + or - .001" is good enough for this adjustment. Feeler gauges are a very precise way to measure. I have boxes of gauge blocks and pins in our shop to measure with. You can't fool a feeler gauge.
    #21
  2. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Hiya Todd! Yes, you did... luckly for you the right fella was answering. Now let the rest of us take a shot at ya :evil

    The first time I tried to use a feeler gauge to measure +/- 0.001" I thought to myself: "There is no way will I get the hang of this." But there I was with my jam nuts loose and no way around it... :cry So, after asking a very smart lil' birdy for some guidance on the use of a feeler gauge, I actually taught myself the feel of +/- 0.001". U can 2.

    My process was this: I tightened the gap down until the feeler would not move, then loosened it up until the feeler didn't drag at all and then methodically varied the adjustment throughout that range, experiencing the variability across the range, until I found the "middle" and took that as the correct feel. I was up late that night, but learning takes time. BTW, the entire range was, as I recall, only "two hours" of rotation on the jam nut!

    I don't think it's as bad as you think! See Post #92 in Creeper's valve adjustment thread for my whole soap opera.

    PS - Zerodog, you started it! I probably shouldn't ask, but why do you think the measurement of TDCC should be so exact, when you don't use a micrometer to measure valve lash? :amazon
    #22
  3. 2 SPOT

    2 SPOT wannabe

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    hey zerodog, sorry to hear about your recent waterpump troubles. looks like i really screwed ya huh? sold you a crap bike and timed it just right for the waterpump to go out, man i'm good. just wait till the sawdust i put in the crankcase stops doing its job, wow what a racket.
    oh, and your right about your assumption, 16k miles and the bike has never been opened up to my knowledge past the covers to check valve clearance. it never needed to be.
    FYI, i believe everything is original outside of the normal wear parts (brakes, chain & sprockets, tires ect) so i guess you should brace yourself for the things that start to happen with mileage, maybe clutch replacement in the future, i would guess anywhere from next month to a few years.
    again man, sorry i sold you a bike w/o telling you the waterpump was gonna go out in a couple thousand miles.
    yeah i am being a bit sarcastic but badmouth the bike all you want, i standby the bike being in good shape at its mileage.
    #23
  4. Zerodog

    Zerodog Long timer

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    First off I am doing the water pump so I want the slot in the cam as vertical as possible so the pump comes out easy. So dead nuts TDC gives me that. I have always had bikes that have some kind of marks to line up for finding TDC so I like to be sure of what I am doing.
    How on earth do you measure valve lash with a micrometer? A feeler gauge is right on if used correctly too.

    2spot,
    Judging by my low coolant and oil color when I got back from picking up the bike I am pretty sure I bought it with this problem. Yeah I left this deal with my ass hurting at bit. I just keep finding stuff wrong. Some of it is basic maintence stuff, some of it is pretty bigtime. What is the epoxy on the back of the motor all about? I just found that one the other day when I found the shock leaking oil. I don't think that came from the factory! And did you ever find the forks pretty hard to align, like the clamps are tweeked a bit? The list goes on and on. Don't get me started. It's not a bad bike I just paid way too much for what I got and what the bike has needed. You don't need to get on here and be sarcastic about it. I have never said anything bad directly about you. Even though I wanted to. I figured that wasn't a cool thing to do. I did buy it. My excitement got the best of me. I learned a lot too....About buying bikes. Everyone has different opinions about maintenance and quality. I ride my motorcycles pretty hard. So I was never expecting a show bike. But when someone tells me, "the bike is tight, needs nothing, is a 9 out of 10", that is what I was expecting. Not a long list of stuff the bike needs in the very near future. So whatever....

    Hey, anyone have a set of 640 triple clamps they want to get rid of?
    #24
  5. 2 SPOT

    2 SPOT wannabe

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    i dont want this to be a big pissing contest. i appreciate you not dragging our differences out and i should do the same, sorry for the sarcastic comments.
    i dont know about the epoxy, the bike didnt leak anything anywhere when i owned it so i never noticed epoxy. remember i only owned the bike about 6 months before i sold it to you and in that time i never had any issues. i dont know about the triple clamps, but now that you mention it it didnt seem as stable as i thought it would be when i took both hands off the wheel, i chocked it up to head angle and i guess that shows my ignorance in such matters. the only coolant leak, or low coolant i ever noticed was after it puked some when i was stuck in traffic on a very hot day. topped it off and didnt have any issues, or milky oil or anything that would indicate a blown water pump seal. you seem to be much more detailed than i am about bikes, so when i said it was tight and needed nothing, i meant it. i had a good expierence on the bike and i only hope you can too despite the flaws you keep finding.
    peace
    #25
  6. Rad

    Rad Just me

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    2spot and zerodog

    Both of you are do'n pretty good; but, you two may want to have any further bike discussion via PM or email. It could get messy here quick when yur fellow Advers find the tiny blood trail and start to feed and rip some huge wounds:lol3
    #26
  7. PackMule

    PackMule love what you do Super Moderator

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    That explains a few things! :freaky



    Maybe 2spot should buy a set of subtanks and call it good... :hide
    #27
  8. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Well, the manual says you can use the marks "of" flywheel (really, it did), but then gives no further input. So if there is some standard way to use flywheel marks you are good to go; either that or KTM mechanics must have factory training to interpret the repair manual... :dunno

    LC4pilot (and la Familia's Technical Review Unit) did not find that level of precision to be required.
    #28
  9. Zerodog

    Zerodog Long timer

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    I think gunnerbuck said it all right here. I will try this out next time. I will have a look today and see if I can find it. My mark should be right in the window.
    #29
  10. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    It's your world. I was just curious why you thought the methods used successfully by others would be inadequate. Perhaps your additional precision will help the slot in the cam to be as vertical as possible and the pump will slide out just like greased lightning!

    PS - the micrometer was a joke based upon earlier discussion. Personally I have never used one... :lol3
    #30