My Bike Build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by XCgeek, May 8, 2013.

  1. jesusgatos

    jesusgatos fishing with dynamite

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    on the road
    ...and dust. Lots of dust. But would guess that the sound bouncing off the ground and up into a vehicle is going to be a lot different than a motorcycle. Turndowns do sound a lot different on/off-road too. If you don't mind the dust, probably won't be much of an issue. But why not put a tip on the end of that exhaust to turn it backwards, twisted off to one side or the other so it doesn't cook the tire?
    #81
  2. Te Hopo

    Te Hopo AKA Deanohit

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    Automatic tire warmer anyone?

    I too am keen to see how it sounds, my custom XT225 exhaust points down at 45degrees and you can hear the sound bouncing off the ground but not in a bad way.

    On another note, the turn down is in the perfect spot for a small turbo :evil
    #82
  3. DRjoe

    DRjoe Long timer

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    Nice work with the exhaust.
    For someone who's not a fabricator you doing a bloody good job.
    #83
  4. XCgeek

    XCgeek Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 2, 2013
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    62
    Hi Don,

    I notice in you build, you have used cable disk brakes. I am currently helping a friend convert a bicycle into a tricycle and we wish to run two bicycle brakes from the one lever. How did you split the cable into two from one?

    #84
  5. XCgeek

    XCgeek Adventurer

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    The exhaust does have a slight twist at the end of about 15 degrees to do what you have suggested
    #85
  6. Salsa

    Salsa Been here awhile

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    I used one like this to use on a pumper carb and copied the design for my twin disk bikes.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-T10-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2ec16213fb

    I think these would work if you did not have to use too much brake. I don't need a lot for my motorcycles.

    The inside of mine has a slug inside a tube. It is 1/2 inch long with 3 countersunk holes in it. The outer two go the brakes and the center one goes to the lever. The outside is a piece of tubing and two caps that have countersunk holes to keep the cables in place. The caps have shoulders so they don't slide in. Electrical tape holds the caps in place.

    The cables are made out of bicycle cables from Kmart -- a bunch for $6.

    Don
    #86
  7. MacNoob

    MacNoob piney fresh

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    OK I have to see how this goes. :lurk
    #87
  8. Lizrdbrth

    Lizrdbrth Wackjob

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    Salsa, take pity on me and read yer PM's.:bow
    #88
  9. ajmozer

    ajmozer n00b

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    Dec 11, 2012
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    Awesome project!
    #89
  10. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Take a look at tandem bike brake cables. They are two to one. Wrong direction but I am sure they can be reversed.
    #90
  11. PhiSig1071

    PhiSig1071 What's ******width?

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    Subscribed, this looks cool. Makes me wish I still had my old XR100.
    #91
  12. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    What is going on with this build. Any news. Hope you did not get sucked back up into the working world.
    #92
  13. Billedale

    Billedale Adventurer

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    I've been wondering the same, this is a really cool project and it was coming along quite well!

    Edit: Oooh, this is my coming out of lurkerdom on this forum! See how important your project is :).
    #93
  14. TangentRogers

    TangentRogers n00b

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    Its enough to finally bring me out of the shadows too!

    This is an awesome build XCgeek, definitely the best and most thorough I've seen here. I wish I had your CAD skills. I'm still stuck in 2D using AutoCAD, haven't got my head around solid modelling yet.

    Any updates for us?
    #94
  15. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    :ear
    #95
  16. sonic reducer

    sonic reducer Been here awhile

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    Seattle WA
    I love what you are doing here. a couple thoughts:
    switch to a marzocchi 888 or a fox 40. you will shed quite a bit of weight and not sacrifice a lot of stiffness. the 888 is very affordable, stiff, plush, and available in several levels of trick-ness depending on your budget. the fox 40 is the stiffer fork but much more maintenance intensive, more expensive, not quite as plush, and not as reliable in the long term. FWIW I have had 3 different 888's, various boxxers, and currently run a fox 40 on my DH bike. what you have got going on with the monster T is fine, but keep in mind that you may not gain much in stiffness with that fork and certainly that is the only thing the monster will have over any other DH fork. 888's are basically foolproof, plush, and very servicable. Im not sure how easily you will find replacement parts for monsters also.

    building your shock mounts to a readily available DH size like 9.5x3 would allow you plenty of economical(and not so economical)options to try out new setups.

    as for your welding, keep the gas flowing higher than normal, remember the post flow, keep your arc length short, and your tungsten sharp. a corroded, irregular tungsten makes proper technique way harder especially to the beginner. grind the tungsten properly and frequently. on these thin materials it's quite easy to heat soak the part so weld smaller portions before continuing and do a bunch of practicing. keep the amps at 1 amp per thousandth of an inch or below for thin materials. ie .065 run 60-63 amps until you feel that amps are holding you back.
    #96
  17. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Might as well be a dead post.

    Op must have scored a real job again and has left us.

    Or he is dead.
    #97
  18. ben2go

    ben2go Moto Flunky

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    Let's hope not the later.
    #98
  19. XCgeek

    XCgeek Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Hi. Uuummmm sorry about the lack of progress reporting. Some I can blame on a month and a half holiday to Montreal, some to a month and a half motorcycle tour around New Zealand, some to getting engaged (will this mean an end to these projects?) but most to just being a slack arse that likes to do and not so much about talking.

    But please rest assured I am still here, still alive and much progress has been made.

    One item for the build that has been giving me nightmares and at the same time, I have been really looking forward to starting is the fuel tank.

    I have always wanted to weld with Aluminium and an aluminium fuel tank makes a lot sence. Light, strong, fabricatable, corrosion resistantÂ…..

    The design is tricky. 6 litre capacity with the air box built into it. The initial design also structural tubes passing through it to allow for the throttle cable routing and airbox drain.

    Here are some images of the first trail!

    <img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7323/10774916096_aa80790196_z.jpg"

    View from below, large tube is airbox manifold, the other two small tubes are for throttle cable and drain

    <img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/10775141403_1a4f6e440a_z.jpg"

    Filler neck starts life as a piece of 2" round bar

    <img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2888/10774919186_dcb9f0354c_z.jpg"

    Airbox cavity. The top tube interfaces with the seat, the lower tube would be the tank mount to the frame, the middle tube is that pesky throttle tube. The throttle tube will be dropped for the second try

    <img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5490/10774871035_e22a3bf8c2_z.jpg"

    You can see here where the airfilter attaches within the airbox

    <img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5521/10774920906_08c1062c14_z.jpg"

    Ugly!

    Damn this is difficult. The design is too complicated to start with but I also learnt a whole lot about welding aluminium. This stuff moves, pulls, melts, cracks, gets really really hot!

    The fuel cap is from a Beta trials bike which has a thread that does not measure up to any thread, metric or non metric that I can determine other that it has a 2.5mm or 10tpi pitch. No worries, I have a lath so I made a spout to fit the cap.

    This tank was great learning so now to make mark 2. Simpler and marginally more skill.
    #99
  20. Te Hopo

    Te Hopo AKA Deanohit

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    Welcome back XCgeek, I look forward to seeing what you come up with for tank no.2 :D