My Garage Of Doom.

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Lornce, Jan 15, 2008.

  1. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    Here's a pic of the big end bearings that show signs of slight wear through to the lower layers of material (copper, i think?) on the thrust side of the bearing.

    [​IMG]


    At 240k kms, I dion't think this level of wear is beyond what could be expected.

    However, I am wondering if the uber-high compression ratio (approx 12:1) might contribute to accelerated bearing wear as it must certainly increase bearing pressures - especially at low revs when oil pressure is not particularly high.

    The bike, in this engine configuration, will idle up just about anywhere it'll get traction. Hmmmn, maybe I should check the new shells every 20 or 30k kms just to see how they hold up?

    :scratch
    #81
  2. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    Here's the ultra sophisticated tool I used to extract the front main bearing support from the engine block.

    Should I patent the design? :scratch


    :lol3


    [​IMG]
    #82
  3. TEXASYETI

    TEXASYETI Call me "thread killer!"

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    Nice bags and I am impressed at the speed with which you are tackling this project. Owning a PD myself I am really enjoying this thread.

    BTW - I got some of the "old school" Jesse bags a few years ago. Your have some of the nice updates but paying 650 for a blemished set was right on! :thumb

    [​IMG]
    #83
  4. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    I like sophisticated engineering solutions. :D

    Here you can see the main bearing housing spezial puller tool #15c serving double duty to hold the crank in position until I torque up the clutch carrier out back.

    Failing to do this (secure the crank position in the block) can permit the crank to move forward and allow inner rear thrust bearing to fall off it's locating pins, which will cause "problems" and "issues". Speaking euphemistically...

    :D


    [​IMG]
    #84
  5. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    A similar level of sophistication is utilised to secure the clutch carrier while torquing the crankshaft bolts.

    :wink:

    Interestingly, this procedure is done with lightly oiled threads. ie: bolt stretch is somewhat higher than the 76ft/lb torque spec might suggest.


    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]
    #85
  6. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    In keeping with the theme of spetzialised und sophisticated tooling... Here's an ideal drift to reseat the crankshaft nose bearing.

    3/4" drive is essential for clearance on the crank taper. :deal



    [​IMG]
    #86
  7. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    I'm nearly there.

    Engine, trans, charging system, starter, ignition etc. all went in this evening.

    Tomorrow it's the swingarm, driveshaft, final drive, exhaust plumbing, carbs etc. Hope to have it fired up and running for a break-in ride before the day's out.

    Wish me luck. It's been nearly eleven months since I last rode the old horse and I'm looking forward to enjoying it again.

    ciao.
    Lorenzo
    #87
  8. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    Has it been that long? The whole thing kinda happened under the radar :lol3
    #88
  9. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    The radar timed out. :D

    How did your overhaul work out?

    :ear
    #89
  10. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    An Unqualified success. Runs really well. Raced it in a motocross race :eek1 about two weeks/500 miles after rebuild, and have put over 2K on it since. Its fuel and oil consumption has gone down and down, respectively. Anton did a really admirable job.

    I was looking forward to seeing actual mechanics being done here, although you tell a fine yarn :lol3 Pics are great.
    #90
  11. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    I hadn't been aware that you farmed the work out. I'll have to dig up your thread and review it. :thumb

    What part of the "mechanics" of the project were you hoping to gain more insight into? It's hard to know what to include and what to gloss over. And it's hard to take pics when you're hands are covered in oil and grunge. :D

    Anyhow, the new cam's installed along with new big end bearings, cylinders and seals/gaskets throughout. Valve guides were still good so a clean up and light lapping was all that was required to the valves, and decarbonization of heads and piston crowns. I've tried to include handy home remedies to work around the requirement for "official factory tools" etc.

    Happy to answer questions about anything I might have glossed over. :ear

    One concern I still have is the oil filter canister which is nearly 5mm deep. From everything I've read it's supposed to be closer to 3mm. Early on in it's life when the machine was quite new it's oil pump and big end bearings were replaced under warranty after concerns over low oil pressure. I've seen the old oil pump parts and there's nothing wrong with them.

    I suspect the only reason it's lasted this long has been because of it's attention to maintenance and relatively tame existence for the first 200k kms. It was ridden quite gently by the original owner.

    Since I've owned it it's never felt quite right at higher engine revs. I've never has an oil pressure guage on it, but the evidence in the oil filter cannister leads me to suspect it may bypass at higher revs. :dunno

    Either way I'm going to need to shim the oil filter o-ring to suit.

    fwiw,
    Lornce
    #91
  12. The Vert

    The Vert Banned

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    Looking forward to the rest of the build with great interest.
    Darn good looking ally panniers.
    #92
  13. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    The canisters were set at varying depths by the factory added to the fact that if they were not sunk completely than they can move over time-- By judicious use of a caliper Anton has worked out a shim to control the canister insertion depth. When he was working on mine he installed a shim and then the can so that I no longer need a metal shim or a paper gasket. I now use 1 white o-ring and nothing else.

    Here's a link to his stuff:


    http://largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html

    I'll figure out some questions. :D
    #93
  14. The Vert

    The Vert Banned

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    This is freaking me out. I'm new to the airhead ('91 BumbleBee) An oil filter giving guff? I thought those krauts had it all figgerd out.
    #94
  15. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    #95
  16. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    Post '77 airhead oil filter esoterica is one of the greatest unsung gaffs of modern motorcycling. :eek1 :huh

    No other motorcyle in history requires more effort and information to successfully change oil and filter.

    :loco

    But we love them so we take the time... and hope the planets align in our favour.

    :lol3
    #96
  17. The Vert

    The Vert Banned

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    Surprised some clever engineer/business type hasnt come along to save us all. I havent a clue (yet) of the inner workings but isnt there a carved billet aluminum solution to everything?
    #97
  18. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    The Solution is not billet, just a thin sliver of the same stuff as the oil filter canister. Lathed off a spare, as a matter o fact.

    Welcome to the wide wide world of airheads. :lol3 I like the bumblebees :D
    #98
  19. The Vert

    The Vert Banned

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    At the risk of mucking up this thread, thanks for the welcome, Stagehand. Ya, the Bees' a keeper.....
    #99
  20. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    This thread's waaaay beyond "mucked up".

    :lol3 :rofl :norton

    Welcome to "Old Skool", Berni.

    :thumb :thumb