My life aboard a BMW R80ST

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by hardwaregrrl, Oct 6, 2012.

  1. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    yeah, you're right. I was held at bay by a sweet 5 year old, his dad and his uncle. It was a temporary fix, just haven't gotten a chance to change to the compression ferruels. You paint the tank? Pics?

    #41
  2. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    Hurricane Creek was great, I loved following lines, but Cochran Mill looking backwards makes me wanna puuuuke.
    #42
  3. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

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    ....mmmmm....nope... not yet.... still getting my son's XS650 put together, and just enjoying riding the ST. This wintah....:evil

    [​IMG]
    #43
  4. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Oh my god.....replacing a timing chain is a GIANT pain in the arse.

    So yesterday I disassembled everything and shipped my starter off to Rick, as I've never serviced it.:huh Cleaned the starter cavity up nicely and removed the rest of the timing cover gasket off the block. I had broken my 3 jaw puller and planned on going to Napa in the morn for the steering/H20 pump puller wirewrk:cry had suggested. Well, using that puller I had to remove the bearing and the sprocket seperate. And it worked, but stripped out, so it's going back to Napa. Mike came by to swap in his new rear wheel, and I love having company in the shop but I was really having to think on this one.

    Sprocket in the oven, a couple of times before I got it to budge on the crank...what I planned on using to drive it home didn't work. So I waited till mike left then ran to Lowes to get a big ass socket to fit. Sent the sprocket home and then got to work on heating the bearing. Put it in some motor oil on to the stove, as I was googling how long to heat it.....my house began to smell kinda funny. Oh shit....yep that oil smelled like fookin dog shite!!!:lol3 I'm an asshole, and hoping I didn't toast the bearing. I ran outside with a smoking, shit pan full of oil..... It feels and looks fine, so I'm a gonna run with it. Lost my cam and crank marks so rockers and pushrods OUT.! Got everything all lined up then installed the new tensioner and spring and chain. It was a bitch getting the master link on, another airhead project I'd rather farm out....way more fiddly than anything else I've ever done. Patience was wearing thin...... Got it!!!!:evil I will say it was easier with the guide off, and the tensioner tied back....wrapped the link with some wire and used a long flathead behind that....I even had problems getting the old link in from the front!!!!

    So, chain on, time to put the pushrods and rockers back on. Last time I had the heads out to Carl I noticed that my top, right front stud is proud maybe 1/2". Brad was helping me out and we didn't think anything of it, but we did discuss it......well that mother fucker is stripped.!!!! I tried to tighten it into the case, but it wouldn't budge, but I can only torque it to about 15 ft/lbs. Not sure what to do. Wondering if I can ride it till I can get it to the shop for helicoil.?

    What say you?

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    #44
  5. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    Don't forget the little gasket doughnuts that go on the upper studs which hold your timing cover on. Forget those and your new gasket won't seal right
    #45
  6. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Yep, I do have them! Thanks AW!!! Got any advice on the stud?
    #46
  7. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    Sorry, but I've been lucky enough to have never pulled one. Thread insert, ho! Good luck.
    #47
  8. Stan_R80/7

    Stan_R80/7 Beastly Gnarly

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    Now that you have done this job, the next time it will be easier - especially if the old chain is cut off with bolt cutters. That is, provided the sprocket teeth and bearing look good. After (sucessfully) going through all that with the timing chain replacement (especially the bearing and sprockets) installing a helicoil is fairly simple.

    There are some specialized kits for repairing the studs in the engine case, but a standard helicoil should work great. Of course, the cylinder must be pulled and some tape/protection put behind the stud hole to drill it out for installing the helicoil. The access provided by removing the cylinder should be enough to get behind the stud hole.

    The tap (provided in the helicoil kit to cut the threads) can be packed with grease and cleaned frequently to catch any chips that may fall into the engine. Drilling the oversize hole for the tap is where the tape and access behind the hole are important to catch metal chips from falling into the engine. Use WD40 on the drill bit and hole when enlarging the engine case hole to make cutting easier.

    The only advise I can give is when tapping the helicoil hole, use a tap guide. The tap guide helps get the threads started straight and makes the job easier. A tap guide is not required, but really helps.

    A tap guide is usually made from a piece of (1"x1") flat wood or aluminum stock (aluminum is better) ~ 3/8"-3/4" thick with a hole slighly larger than the tap drilled in a drill press. If the tap guide is made first, it can help (but is not critical) for drilling the oversize hole. WD40 on the tap hole would be good here also - just make sure any tape to catch metal bits does not come off from soaking in the WD40.

    Good Luck! [insert legal disclaimer here]

    p.s. The above is how I would approach installing a new helicoil to repair a stripped engine case hole. YMMV.

    Edit: Not that you may even want to know (but, it's too late - I'm in this far): here are a couple of links to tap guides and how to use them.
    http://www.amazon.com/Hand-Tap-Guide-Standard-V-Tap/dp/B000ZN30U4
    http://www.slidewright.com/weblog/s...snowboard/drill-tap-guides-for-hand-drilling/
    #48
  9. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Thanks Stan......I'm gonna go this route. I'm lucky enough to have a shop that allows me to use their fancy schmancy tools and what nots.....so I'll drag the bike out to Watkinsville early in the AM. I had thought about going the helicoil route, but this is a learning process and I want to do it the correct way. Since it's a top stud, I was nervous about blocking the oil feed hole...and the jig supplied will get rid of that fear. After I read this, I decided to do it the proper way. I'll try and take pics of the process.
    #49
  10. Stan_R80/7

    Stan_R80/7 Beastly Gnarly

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    Oh, yea, those top studs supply oil the the valve train. I forgot about that. There is no back access to the hole. Whoops.

    It looks like you have a good plan to fix the stripped threads. Good luck!
    #50
  11. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    So that HPD tool is the schiznit!!!

    STep 1Remove stud
    Step 2install drill bushing[​IMG]Step 3 drill bit ready with grease[​IMG]Step 4Drill it out![​IMG]Step 5 tap it[​IMG]Step 6 clean it and vacuum it out[​IMG]STep 7Install insert with bad ass loctitie[​IMG]Step 8 Let the insert cure[​IMG]Step 9 install bushing for oil passage[​IMG]Step 9 drill oil passage[​IMG]Step 10Admire your work[​IMG]Step 11Stud back in the block.[​IMG]So I had a little more time and put the oil pan back on with the nice shiny new gasket.[​IMG][​IMG]And just to make sure the oil passage was clear......eureka!!![​IMG]
    #51
  12. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

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    ......:eek1....

    nicely done... that tool looks the part...:clap
    #52
  13. Renner

    Renner combustophile

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    good job! :thumb
    #53
  14. Sutherngintelmen

    Sutherngintelmen around the bend

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    Hell yeahs Jenna! :thumb
    #54
  15. Stan_R80/7

    Stan_R80/7 Beastly Gnarly

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    Cool! Good Job!

    This was the 'specialized kit' I referred to earlier - that (quite frankly) appeared to be a drill and tap guide that one could make in the shop w/out much trouble - and certainly *not* worth $500.00. However, seeing it in action (and not done by a paid representative) I have changed my opinion. Thanks for sharing.
    #55
  16. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Nice photos. Thanks for the tutorial.
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  17. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Thanks guys....obviously there is a bit more to it than that, but that jig sure keeps your brow dry. Took about 4 hours and 3 of that was letting the insert cure. I'm hoping for my starter back early in the week, so I can put her back together and getting the timing spot on.....then I really and truly can jet my carbs.
    #57
  18. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

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    Very good job, Jenna! :clap
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  19. hardwaregrrl

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    Thanks Mark :wave

    To all you fellas who were asking for a tech day on the timing chain replacement....I'm sorry. I was able to secure some work up until Christamas, I had the time to tackle it this week, so I couldn't wait. Most of the tech you'd be observing would be me fishing for tools in my garage after I'd thrown them in disgust.:D I'm am happy to help you change yours, but it ain't an easy few hours....hopefully Brad and I can do something in January. Going to pull the jugs and change out the rod bearings, and maybe even attempt to balance the pistons and rods. That one will be a bit easier to show.
    #59
  20. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    That tool is pretty slick. :wink: Still, I hope I never have to use it though.
    #60