My R1200GSA Step-by-Step Gearbox Removal Process

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by jdub, Jan 30, 2011.

  1. AussieKen

    AussieKen n00b

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    Great work mate. Excellent explanations. I might get stuck into mine very soon as I know the splines would be dry at 100,000K's. Thank you in advance.

    Cheers

    Aussie Ken
    #41
  2. bigjohn66

    bigjohn66 Been here awhile

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    Shouldn't this be moved into the HOW? I forsee a demand for this thread down the road as hexheads start getting higher and higher miles on them. It's very well laid out and has additional info, such as the special support studs dimensions, that make it a great candidate for inclusion.
    #42
  3. cnj3

    cnj3 Adventurer

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    When you reinstall the transmission, do you need to do anything special to align the input shaft splines?
    #43
  4. The Other JC

    The Other JC Lurking since 2004..

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    So long as you have not taken the clutch apart, the gearbox will slide straight back into position regarding input spline to clutch. If you have taken the clutch apart you will need to centre the friction disk, slide the gearbox back on to centre the friction disk, then do up the clutch housing bolt to hold the disk in place, remove the gearbox, and complete the clutch housing bolting with correct torque. Then slide the gearbox back on. (or use BMW centering tool or similar!)

    Either way, leave the gearbox in gear and rotate the output spline to turn the input spline to line up with the friction disk spline grooves if required.

    And don't forget to make the a couple of studs to replace the bolts for the gearbox to slide on when you remove and install the gearbox. Helps in holding the gearbox level when getting the input splines lined up, and same removing level.
    #44
  5. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud

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    No, as clarified by The Other JC. Once you mate the male (gearbox shaft) and female (clutch hub) splines together, just slide the gearbox straight forward and it will engage with and be positioned by the alignment dowels on the engine case. Easy then to just keep a hand on the gearbox while you install the bolts that secure the gearbox to the engine case, and I saw no need to use temporary gearbox guide studs or pins.

    Unlike on R11x0 bikes where the rear subframe is pivoted upward during this project and you have to work around it, it's easy to eyeball the spline engagement from the top on an R1200 with the subframe fully out of the way. This also makes handling of the gearbox much easier.
    #45
  6. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    <BR>Nice one, Jdub! It's always good to see a DIY repair thread. Thanks for taking the time.


    <BR>
    #46
  7. StellerBeemer

    StellerBeemer n00b

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    I have just completed replacing the main input shaft seal and clutch assembly on my '05 R1200GS with 54k. using this thread. It went without a hitch! I was seriously overwhelmed at the scope of the project before starting, however, after about an hour into it, I realized that it simply was a series of minor procedures - disconnect shift linkage, side stand switch, rear wiring harness, etc. It was way less daunting after that realization. I was amazed that there were so few bolts in the tray after the split. It took 3.5 hours to get to the clutch and took equally as long to reassemble. The cleaning, however, was super time consuming as gear oil makes a sticky mess.

    Thanks for taking the time to create this well illustrated how-to.
    #47
  8. S-curvy

    S-curvy In my dreams....

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    Jdub, that is an excellent contribution to the collection. My '05 GS has 16K on the clock and has been leaking erl from the front tranny seal for the last 3K miles. Considering the $1,000 ++ repair quotes I've gotten so far, and the fact that I'm not working much right now, it appears I've got a leetle project staring me in the face. :huh Is this a common leak story? I'll probably go ahead and replace the clutch w/ a Kevlar unit as well -- Any thoughts on these?

    I know it's a ballsy proposition, but what's the consensus on solving that persnickety wiring harness exercise by simply splicing in a Molex type (or other appropriate) quick-connect up near the gas tank, as Jdub mentioned? :evil While this does introduce a man-made break in the conductors, BMW and all other mfrs use quick-connects all over the place on the cars, trucks, and motos.
    #48
  9. Lensgrinder

    Lensgrinder Long timer

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    Nice thread jdub, I printed it out and started a notebook.

    The only thing that confused me was step 17, maybe a better location discription would be next to the transmission drain plug facing forward. removing it toward the rear of the bike.

    I also just removed the nut that holds the gear shift linkage together, didn't remove it from the gear shift shaft.

    I also thought about a connector to unplug in order to separate the rear subframe, but there were about twenty wires of different sizes so I just removed the fender liner, it wasn't too bad.
    #49
  10. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud

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    farmerger's post #27 in this thread has a good picture of the referenced bolt under step 2, which is a great visual aid.

    I expect to be going through this process again with my bike probably January 2013ish, hope to be at the 115k-120k mile point by then and looking forward to see what I encounter different from the first time at 68k miles. I figured at that time I'd do a major edit/update on my original post in this thread with more and better pictures and text. For ease of reading/condensing into one area I was thinking of including lots of the other suggestions and tips contributed by others in the thread, so I'll see how that goes.

    Thanks again for all of the additional info and feedback everyone. :clap
    #50
  11. Lensgrinder

    Lensgrinder Long timer

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    I think that's how I found it.
    I was standing there looking at the side of the bike thinking I must be blind to not see it.

    Then I stopped, went in the house and read the entire thread again and found it.

    Thanks again to all who added their insight. With the combined input the job wasn't so daunting.
    Thanks again jdub, great thread.
    Richard
    #51
  12. Frani

    Frani Adventurer

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    Very interesting information
    #52
  13. Eagleavn

    Eagleavn EagleAvn

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    Dude you got the wrong bike.....you need a Goldwing, you dont have these :lol3kinds of problems.....LOL

    The Eagle
    #53
  14. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud

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    This from a guy who sells his GS just so he doesn't have to buy me a bottle of single malt in exchange for my help with his clutch spline lube. :freaky
    #54
  15. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    :photog

    Jim :brow
    #55
  16. Guy Young

    Guy Young Long timer

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    Getting really close to separating the frame for a clutch replacement - BUT - I cannot get the front drive shaft splined joint to release from the transmission output shaft.

    I've worked on similar bikes before and they've all just popped off with no drama. This one ain't budging.

    Have spritzed Kroil in at the joint hoping it might provide a lubrication to the retaining snap ring, but still no go. I've tried a medium screwdriver, a BIG screwdriver, and am now using a small pry bar, but still no movement.

    Any ideas are most welcome.

    .
    #56
  17. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Don't forget the bolt from the frame to the motor near the driveshaft just above the swigarm. It doesn't show in the early BMW DVD.


    I have a photo at home, but it attaches the frame from a small brackeet to the trans.

    Also, I had the driveshaft get slightly cocked and it took significant force to pry it off the end of the trans shaft. It get's caught in the C-clip groove.

    When it comes to splitting the trans from the motor, you might find it hard to do. It is the locator pins that have rusted/corroded. You will need to carefully wedge it apart near the locator pins. This is bottom right and top left on the trans.

    You can see one of the pins here.

    [​IMG]

    I used a smooth edged flat screwdriver and drove it in with a deadblow hammer with gentle blows. You will see it pulling apart.

    Jim :brow
    #57
  18. TXjames

    TXjames High Sider

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    I had a lot of trouble splitting mine for that very reason. What a PITA. It's very easy to damage the aluminum housing once this has happened so find the strongest purchase you can when splitting a stuck tranny. I think I anti-seized the pins on reassembly but it may not help since the clearance between pin and case is so small.

    I hope you replaced that balancer shaft seal JVB. That's nasty. Or is that leaking down from the rear main seal?
    #58
  19. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Balancer shaft, and I am waiting parts right now!

    You are right on the split. Pay close attention and you can see where the solid parts are, and where to slip in a wedge/screwdriver.

    [​IMG]
    As it sits!

    [​IMG]
    Needed parts.

    Jim :brow
    #59
  20. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud

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    I'm pretty sure when mine is installed w/ the snap ring engaged you can still detect a tiny bit of fore/aft movement of the splined adapter on the gearbox output shaft. I'm sure that's attributable to some tolerances between the snap ring and its groove.

    The only reasons I can think of why yours isn't coming off is that the adapter is seized to the shaft by corrosion (especially is there is no fore and aft play at all), or that the snap ring is just really locked into its groove (corroded and/or the snap ring is expanded more than normal and doesn't want to compress and release from the groove).

    Maybe try tapping on the rear of the driveshaft with a rubber mallet to break the front adapter loose a bit, and then try prying it off again?

    Good luck and let us know the results.
    #60