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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by blaine.hale, Dec 29, 2009.
Been there done that Still, dental tools are useful for all sorts of stuff.
Now you tell me! Now you'll have three.
If you work on these carbs very often, you'll want that tool! I've never stabbed myself yet, but it is extremely easy to damage the o-rings without Robert's tool.
I saw this on E-Bay this morning:
You can order just the pin spanner new from BMW and build your own personalized tool kit around it.
Got some pictures from Wes at Apex cycle of the engine bead blasting progress! The current time line is getting the engine and wheels back the end of this month then doing the big build mother's day weekend.
Whoever that is bead blasting an assembled engine is one hopeful dude... I've heard enough sob stories about beads and break downs, that I would never even think to try that.
OTOH, soda blasting a sealed engine sounds promising. I've had a pile of parts soda blasted and have had good results. If my parts were oxidized, scrubbing them using a brass bristle brush and aluminum polish first really helped things along and the soda removed the brass sheen from the aluminum, no problem. My other problem with bead blasting is that it changes the "as cast" surface finish of the parts and for me, thats a big no-no.
Heres a tip for ya: if you soda blast you parts and some water gets on the soda and leaves a stain, I've had good results removing the stains by gently brushing the stained area using a brass and then a steel bristled brush and aluminum polish. Work very lightly and use a circular motion.
So far, my efforts have been rewarded!
Looks good and he seems to have taped it up well. I think I even see tape on the inside of the fins on the alternator cover.
Anyone have an exploded diagram of the ATE master cylinder on my bike?
I can't seem to find one. For the most part I've got the rebuild for it right but I cant remember which direction that metal cup goes between the spring and the cylinder and if there were TWO washers surrounding that seal nearest to the spring.
The official ATE instructions that came with the rebuild kit are horribad and the diagram is so scrunched together, you can't see what goes where. Also, what's a good "anti-corrosion" grease? ATE recommends putting it on the seals and cylinder before assembly.
More progress pics when I get this MC back together. I cleaned and painted the coils, battery tray and MC body so they are all shiny new.
Oh and it's media blasting. Not super sure of the media...I probably need to talk to him but I'm so excited about the results so far
*Side note: Does anyone have a BMW fork took (the two peg wrench) they are willing to part with? I don't feel like buying a whole tool kit for that tool and they seem to be pricey alone. I'll buy it off ya.
Looks like you've made some good progress on the bike. Keep up the good work. I love my /6, and hope to one day get her back to her former glory in Monza Blue. Just turned 36, so I'm not quite a young one, but it's fun to tour and camp on a bike made the same year I was born.
Bad news from Wes this morning:
Make one-- drill two holes in a piece of flatstock the proper distance apart. Install a couple of 1/4" bolts and nut them off, and you will probably have to grind or file the threads down a bit, but it will work
I love a good DIY thing but I have something against crudely made tools for some reason :)
Plus I'd rather pay a few bucks and have one to carry in my tool box that I know wont screw up or break when I need it.
I may take your suggestion temporarily though to finish up these forks.
You can buy this tool from Motobins.com UK
or made it
take a flat chaep fork wrench like 17mm japanese tool kit one
drill 2 holes insert 2 old drill in holes, and weld it flush. 5 mm at the oposite side to take your fork caps
So my question still remains about the master cylinder and I can't assemble it until I find out. Which way does the up that retains the spring against the cylinder go? Is it open end TOWARDS the spring or open end AWAY from the spring?
Oh I just noticed the oil pan in there too:
That's normal news in my business. Bad news would be if you had gear damage. On that tranny, it's usually a death sentence. When you get around to it, could you give me the tranny number? I'm collecting some info on early 5-speeds ('74 through '77).
Without seeing the parts, I have a hard time visualizing the problem. If you could post a pic I could probably tell you right away. One way the spring fits into it and the other way it doesn't, as I recall. I've got some in pieces and if I remember to look I could maybe describe it for you. Lotta ifs...
Here's the MC after I stripped all the masses of rust and corrosion off and repainted with a rattle can.
1. This O ring came in the kit, not sure if it goes here because that doesn't seal anything.
2. The cup (which direction should it go on the cylinder?)
3. WTF is this little washer?
4. Large O ring in the kit. Idk where it goes unless it replaces the one on top of the MC body under the plastic reservoir (that requires some big time stretching.)
5. I already have a washer behind that seal but I have an extra one, does the extra one go somewhere by chance? (I don't think so, I'm not sure where it came from.)
1) Looks about right. I think I remember stabbing myself with that one, or at least in moving it to its final destination (if that's not it).
2) I am 99% sure the flat side of it faces the spring. That is, it and the rubber deal "mate."
3) I believe that's the one that goes around the allen bolt that holds the resivoir on. From the bottom of the resivoir. (EDIT; you have a slightly different one than mine. On mine, there is a small allen bolt that holds the resivoir on from the inside, next to the big opening. Since yours seems to be a better design, I don't think you have much use for that o-ring.)
4) I think you're on the right path.
5) I think it goes along with the cup (#2) and the rubber deal.
Good photo Blaine!
You've got #5 pointing to the correct spot - between the cup and piston.
#2 - I believe that one sits flat-side to the seal (bowl visible) and the spring seats into it. Isn't the spring smaller diameter on the other end?
I've never removed the actuating arm - what did that involve? It always looked to me that the pivot was peened and not removeable.
Also, in case you don't know (I didn't till recently) you can get brake paint - maybe it's called caliper paint - I'm assuming it's impervious to brake fluid.
How did You clean this so well?