My shed needs your help

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by zaphoid, Sep 4, 2013.

  1. zaphoid

    zaphoid bored

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    It dose not look all that bad, in most places.

    [​IMG]

    But around back, there was a 2x3 trim strip. I knew it was failing so, I pulled it off and tried to clean things up.
    This is what I found.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So, what do I do next?
    Do I have to pull the sheeting off and replace it, or does one of you have a slick way to repair this?
    What went wrong, Should the 2x3 have been lower down so only the drip edge could be behind it?
    #1
  2. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    6"+ roof overhang at the front. What??? 2" in the back????
    #2
  3. zaphoid

    zaphoid bored

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    1x3 trim strip. ha.

    Yep the overhang in back is nothing... of 1 inch if you want.

    Most of the sheds down at home depot are this way. Dont make it right, but there it is.
    #3
  4. gsweave

    gsweave Yinz, blinkers are on, since 05

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    I would say your bullshit T-111 got water collection problems. Weather side???

    <IFRAME height=315 src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Onxpi1qe0aM" frameBorder=0 width=560 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>
    #4
  5. *Gmoney*

    *Gmoney* don't look here

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    If it was mine I would just seal the rotten part of siding and replace 1x3 trim with a 1x6 trim and caulk.
    It is in the back so larger trim would not be offensive.
    It could even be painted the same color as siding and the human eye would not see the trim size difference.
    #5
  6. troidus

    troidus Long timer

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    The cheap and easy fix is to get another piece of T-111 and some new trim boards and put it back the way it was. The better fix is to strip off the T-111, put up marine-grade plywood sheathing, wrap it with Tyvek, and side it with Hardie plank or similar.
    #6
  7. zaphoid

    zaphoid bored

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    He said cheap and easy. Just thought I should quote that.:rofl
    #7
  8. gsweave

    gsweave Yinz, blinkers are on, since 05

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    Got to love Hardie siding.:deal (hell no I can't afford it)


    cheap would be marine osb


    cheapest is what ya got
    #8
  9. zaphoid

    zaphoid bored

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    I will need one sheet of T111. Not too expensive ($40).
    I might even get by with a 4x4, but no one sells it like that. The triangle area is 10 ft wide, and 28 inches tall. So, lots of cutting. Gonna need a skill saw.
    Would need to disassemble some 1x4 pieces and replace them ($20), primer ($20), paint ($20).

    The real question is how to stop this again.
    Just poor maintenance on my part, or the trim strip in the wrong place?
    #9
  10. kirkster70

    kirkster70 moto junkie

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    I recently went through the exact same thing. I snapped a chalk line around the rotten part then set the depth of a circular saw just enough to go through the T1-11. Carefully remove the rot without damaging the underlying studs. You may get lucky and the studs will be solid.

    Replace with more of the same. Paint, and caulk making sure you seal off the areas that allowed water in in the first place. It's an all day job, but you will be glad when it's done and behind you.
    #10
  11. gsweave

    gsweave Yinz, blinkers are on, since 05

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    How old is the shed?


    if it is a 5year jpb like paint it aint that big a deal


    Silicone chaulking above the trim strip, to shed the water?????
    #11
  12. troidus

    troidus Long timer

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    I didn't say Hardie was cheap or easy.
    #12
  13. troidus

    troidus Long timer

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    Zaphoid, the only way to keep that kind of siding from rotting is to keep it indoors. You can make it last longer if you prime and paint all six sides before installing it, then use caulk to limit moisture intrusion, but it'll still rot eventually.
    #13
  14. HapHazard

    HapHazard Waiting for Gudenov

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    Even then....:lol3

    ^I'd do this, but instead of putting back that horizontal trim that traps water, and/or trying to seal it (shoveling shit against the tide), how about step-flashing with white aluminum material from just below the seam to the peak? You could probably sneak the flashing under the gable end trim (you do have a flat bar to pry it up a bit?). It faces the back, and I don't think it'd look too bad anyway. If you try to take off the top T1-11 gable piece you'd have to remove the trim, drip edge and maybe start effin' up the edge of the roof shingles.
    Good luck!
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax...hite-Trim-Coil-69410/100013808#specifications
    [​IMG]
    #14
  15. crawdad

    crawdad Been here awhile

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    Looks like you already have z flashing between the top and bottom pieces of t-111 [​IMG]

    So either remove and replace entire gable piece or do like Kirkster says and just cut out the bad part and use z flashing on both horizontal joints. Thoroughly paint the bottom edge of the t-111, skip the trim piece it just traps water
    #15
  16. Dave in Wi

    Dave in Wi Long timer

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    I agree. I'd remove & replace the whole peaked gable end to avoid another joint but that's just me. If you want the trim, you could replace it and caulk the top edge only, leaving the bottom open for drainage. I'd bevel the top edge of the trim to help shed water. It looks to me like the old trim trapped water thus the rot.
    #16
  17. zaphoid

    zaphoid bored

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    T1-11 is the worst crap ever invented. Take ply wood, and make it weaker by cutting lines in it. Bonus, this will make it difficult to paint, and allow water intrusion. Ha.

    Replaced the peaked gabled end siding. God this stuff sucks even when new. Got one coat of paint on it. Weather for Saturday looks iffy.
    #17
  18. troidus

    troidus Long timer

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    Hope you primed it first.
    #18
  19. RYANINMICHIGAN

    RYANINMICHIGAN Been here awhile

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    How old is the shed? Does that side face west, north west? I would prolly just pull the whole gable end and resurface. It will be easier cost no more and be a better fix in the end. How to stop it? Don't trim it across that seem again just fit the new sheet up caulk with silicon cleanly and repaint. All that trim did was give water a chance to slow down and sit there.
    #19
  20. Laconic

    Laconic Anodyne

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    Vertical board and batt right over what's there with cedar, covering the lower course of T1-11 by a couple inches. Solid color stain on the cedar.
    #20