My "Slightly Past Mid-Life Crisis" Gold Rush Tour 2009

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Twistn'roads, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. Twistn'roads

    Twistn'roads Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    392
    Location:
    Cambridge, ON
    The Spell of the Yukon

    ~ Robert Service ~

    I wanted the gold, and I sought it;
    I scrabbled and mucked like a slave.
    Was it famine or scurvy, I fought it;
    I hurled my youth into a grave.
    I wanted the gold, and I got it --
    Came out with a fortune last fall, --
    Yet somehow life's not what I thought it,
    And somehow the gold isn't all.....


    Introduction<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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    As I near 50 years of age, I often look back on my life so far. I contemplate the choices and decisions I've made, my failures and accomplishments, dreams and goals. The past while I have not been a happy person. Something is missing. I have never felt such discontent and restlessness. Why? I have a wonderful wife and children whom love me very much. I have a nice home. I have a good job that pays pretty well. I have my health. But still, I’m not content. I am tired of the daily routine. I find that I have fallen into a rut of repetitious existence. My spirit is dieing a bit more every day. There is much more to living than this.<o:p></o:p>
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    Since getting involved in motorcycling a number of years ago (after my first life crisis), I've come to enjoy long distance touring; every trip taking me farther and farther off the beaten track. Riding my motorcycle always took my mind off life's problems and the daily grind. One cold winter's night while "surfing the net" searching for interesting routes and roads for future trips, I came across a unique website, "Adventure Rider". I was inspired. Reading the well documented ride reports of two wheeled adventurers traveling through far off lands got me dreaming. What a better way to warm my soul and put some adventure back into my life than to do a long distance, epic solo trip to a place far away on a motorcycle! Time to "go walkabout"..... <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:State><st1:place>Alaska</st1:place></st1:State> and the <st1:place>Arctic</st1:place> would be the destination!<o:p></o:p>
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    I started doing some preliminary planning for this trip back in 2007. Then I owned a Honda VTX1800 cruiser that I felt no longer was the right bike for me. I needed something that was more nimble in the twisties and could perform reasonably on rough gravel roads. In 2008 I traded my VTX for a Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom. I spent that summer outfitting and farkling the bike to transform it into a machine that I was confident could take me across the continent and back, not always on the easiest path. In addition, I upgraded all my camping gear. I did a couple of trial trips down through the <st1:place>Appalachians</st1:place> trying out different gear, coming home and ordering more!<o:p></o:p>
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    My 2009 trip plan was to ride across the <st1:country-region><st1:place>US</st1:place></st1:country-region> plains as far as the <st1:place>Rocky Mountains</st1:place> in <st1:State><st1:place>Montana</st1:place></st1:State> then turn right. I planned to visit the Sand Hills of <st1:State><st1:place>Nebraska</st1:place></st1:State>, the Black Hills of South Dakota, travel Beartooth pass from <st1:State><st1:place>Wyoming</st1:place></st1:State> into <st1:State><st1:place>Montana</st1:place></st1:State>, Visit Glacier NP and then cross back into <st1:country-region><st1:place>Canada</st1:place></st1:country-region>. I planned to see some of the Kootenays of BC, Banff and Jasper in AB, and make a 2 day stop in Hyder in southern Alaska to see the Salmon Glacier and perhaps some fishing Grizzlies as I worked my way North to Whitehorse in the Yukon. After a much needed tire change and bike service I would continue north to <st1:place>Inuvik</st1:place> in the <st1:State><st1:place>Northwest Territories</st1:place></st1:State> to see the midnight sun then back south-west into <st1:State><st1:place>Alaska</st1:place></st1:State>. After a number of days touring AK, I decided I would take a Canadian route across the prairies, around the <st1:place>Great Lakes</st1:place> and finally home. I had planned to camp most of the way hoping not to be ravaged by bears or other scary campground dwellers!<o:p></o:p>
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    Well it’s hard for me to believe but after 2 years of dreaming, planning, spending and preparing, my epic cross continent motorcycle trip to the Arctic & Alaska is now just a memory. I figure after being home for a week, I best get this RR started. What an awe inspiring adventure it truly was. Any expectations I had for this trip were greatly exceeded! I know there have been many fantastic ride reports, especially about travels to <st1:State><st1:place>Alaska</st1:place></st1:State> & the <st1:place>Arctic</st1:place>, but please sit back and journey with me and enjoy my contribution back to Adventure Rider......<o:p></o:p>
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  2. Twistn'roads

    Twistn'roads Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    392
    Location:
    Cambridge, ON
    "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeing new landscapes, but in having new eyes."

    - Marcel Proust



    Day 1 &#8211; June 12<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    Home > <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:place><st1:City>Ludington</st1:City>, <st1:State>Michigan</st1:State></st1:place> > <st1:place><st1:City>Manitowoc</st1:City>, <st1:State>Wisconsin</st1:State></st1:place> (Super 8)<o:p></o:p>
    Today&#8217;s mileage: 645.4 km, Trip to date: 645.4 km<o:p></o:p>
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    I was up pretty early today, didn&#8217;t really sleep all that soundly. I had lots on my mind. I kind of felt like a kid at Christmas. I felt both excited and nervous at the same time. I&#8217;ve done many motorcycle trips over the years but nothing close to the magnitude of what I was about to embark upon. My wife and I had spent some quality personal time together the night before as my waiting bike had been packed and re-packed for over a week now!<o:p></o:p>
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    While my supportive wife watched on in the drive, I geared up, warmed up the bike, did a final check over and then said farewell, I love you, I&#8217;ll be back soon. I was off! The dream starts! I couldn&#8217;t help feel an up-welling of emotion at that moment. That same emotion would visit me on numerous occasions throughout this trip.<o:p></o:p>
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    Today&#8217;s ride wasn&#8217;t anything special. It was mostly on 400 series/interstate highways to get to the far side of <st1:State><st1:place>Michigan</st1:place></st1:State> to catch a ferry across the lake ><o:p></o:p>
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    http://www.ssbadger.com/home.aspx<o:p></o:p>
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    I had done this on a previous trip to the west and it sure beats going down through the busy <st1:City><st1:place>Chicago</st1:place></st1:City> traffic. The ship didn&#8217;t leave until <st1:time Minute="55" Hour="19">7:55 pm</st1:time> so I had all sorts of time to get there. I did get into Ludington fairly early so I found a good spot for a couple of beers and a bite to eat ><o:p></o:p>
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    http://www.jamesportbrewingcompany.com/<o:p></o:p>
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    It was still pretty early and I had about 3 hours to kill so I hung out at the Ludington beach. While I was sitting on a park bench enjoying the sunshine and &#8220;scenery&#8221;, I hear a motorcycle pull in behind me. It&#8217;s a lady, Corinne, riding a Volusia towing a homemade uni-wheel trailer packed to the gunwales with gear. She was quite the character. She was out for a solo camping weekend along <st1:State><st1:place>Michigan</st1:place></st1:State>&#8217;s West lakeshore. We chatted for about an hour then she bid me safe journey and went on her way.<o:p></o:p>
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    The ferry ride across the lake although quite calm, was windy and cold. I didn&#8217;t spend much time out on deck. The ship wasn&#8217;t very full like the last trip I remember. Must be because it was a Friday and early in the season. It was pretty well stocked however with locally brewed libations! I had booked a motel room on the other side because I did not want to set up camp or hunt for accommodations at <st1:time Minute="0" Hour="0">midnight</st1:time>.


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    Good bye<o:p></o:p>
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    Checking in<o:p></o:p>
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    The &#8220;Spartan&#8221;<o:p></o:p>
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    Chasing the gulls at Ludington beach<o:p></o:p>
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    Oh, to be younger again!<o:p></o:p>
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    Corinne shows up<o:p></o:p>
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    My Ship is in<o:p></o:p>
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    Loading gangway on stern<o:p></o:p>
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    All stowed away<o:p></o:p>
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    Leaving port to the west<o:p></o:p>
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    Ludington in the distance<o:p></o:p>
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    Heading west<o:p></o:p>
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    On the bridge<o:p></o:p>
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    Calm waters<o:p></o:p>
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    #2
  3. GB

    GB . Administrator

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2002
    Oddometer:
    61,132
    Nice work young man :thumb

    :lurk
    #3
  4. PLS8201

    PLS8201 Building the BulletTrain

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    182
    Location:
    Gateway to Yosemite
    My Dad was born in Lincoln Heights. And, Grandpa was
    retired in Sault Ste. Marie. Me, California bred & born.
    As another 50 year old hole in the soul, I'll be watching.
    #4
  5. Stan Dalone

    Stan Dalone Gotta get me somma dat

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,463
    Location:
    Wo says ya cant get thair from hair?
    Beautiful sunset on the big lake ! :clap
    This sounds like a great ride report !
    #5
  6. Twistn'roads

    Twistn'roads Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    392
    Location:
    Cambridge, ON
    "Our Nature lies in movement; complete calm is death."
    - Pascal, Pensées
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    Day 2 &#8211; June 13<o:p></o:p>
    <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:place><st1:City>Manitowoc</st1:City>, <st1:State>Wisconsin</st1:State></st1:place> > <st1:place><st1:City>Lake View</st1:City>, <st1:State>Iowa</st1:State></st1:place> (<st1:place><st1:placeName>Blackhawk </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>State Park</st1:placeType></st1:place>)<o:p></o:p>
    Today&#8217;s mileage: 794.3 km, Trip to date: 1,439.7 km<o:p></o:p>
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    The day started out rather dark, cloudy and gloomy. It seemed rain was looming to the west. I had hoped the roads I had chosen would prove to be more interesting than yesterday&#8217;s ride. I started off on Route 151 and got as far as <st1:place>Lake Winnebago</st1:place> but soon had to detour back to the east due to construction. It seemed 151 was tore up for miles. Too bad because I remember it as rather scenic as it follows the shores of the lake from a previous trip. I followed Route 60 along the <st1:place>Wisconsin River</st1:place> all the way to Prairie du Chien where I crossed over the <st1:place>Mississippi River</st1:place> into <st1:State><st1:place>Iowa</st1:place></st1:State>. Route 13 to the south-west was quite curvy and entertaining, Then it was time to head straight west and that&#8217;s when the topography changed&#8230;. damn is <st1:State><st1:place>Iowa</st1:place></st1:State> flat! I took route 3 then 20 straight west.<o:p></o:p>
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    I decided to spend the night at <st1:place><st1:placeName>Blackhawk </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>State Park</st1:placeType></st1:place> near <st1:place><st1:placeType>Lake</st1:placeType><st1:placeName>View</st1:placeName></st1:place>. When I got there I was in for a surprise. The place was a hive of buzzing motor boats, screaming jet skis, party pontoon boats, bass boats and any other thing that could float. I should have known better. It was a Saturday and this part of <st1:State><st1:place>Iowa</st1:place></st1:State> wasn&#8217;t exactly strewn with water sport recreation areas! It was crowded, noisy with every kind of popular music wailing away on thumping car stereo systems and reving Harleys up and down the road way in. This wasn&#8217;t my idea of serenity, but I was tired and it would have to do. The picture of my journal entry for the day kind of sums things up! After setting up camp, I went into town for supplies, came back and had a few beers and hit the sack wearing my earplugs and had a rather sound sleep, oblivious to the outside revelry.<o:p></o:p>
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    I didn&#8217;t take many pictures today and that would have to change. I&#8217;m not quite in vacation mode at this stage of the trip. It takes me a bit to get into the right mind set.<o:p></o:p>
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    View of <st1:place>Lake Winnebago</st1:place> from 151
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    My camp that day. At least I was close to the shitter!
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    Part of my journal entry for day 2. I&#8217;m not happy!
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    #6
  7. waterlilly

    waterlilly No Agenda World Tour

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    817
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Nice start to your RR.

    Looking forward to more.:lurk
    #7
  8. RAS

    RAS n00b

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    5
    Location:
    Ontario, CA
    :lurk

    Wow this looks like it's going to be a great ride!
    :clap
    #8
  9. drcool

    drcool R.I.P. Dave

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,072
    Location:
    Burlington, Canada
    Hey Mang, don't stop now. I don't read a lot of ride reports(makes me antsy to go) but I'm in on this one.

    Glad you made it back safe and sound. Think Tuesday and give me a ring, we'll have Beer:freaky .

    Back to the keyboard slacker
    drcol
    #9
  10. Twistn'roads

    Twistn'roads Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    392
    Location:
    Cambridge, ON
    ". . .travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living."<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>

    ~ Miriam Beard ~
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    Day 3 &#8211; June 14<o:p></o:p>
    <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:place><st1:City>Lake View</st1:City>, <st1:State>Iowa</st1:State></st1:place> > <st1:place><st1:City>Gordon</st1:City>, <st1:State>Nebraska</st1:State></st1:place> (Western Sands Motel)<o:p></o:p>
    Today&#8217;s mileage: 687.5 km, Trip to date: 2127.2 km<o:p></o:p>
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    It&#8217;s kind of funny&#8230;.. everyone I speak to along the way so far look at me in an odd way when they hear of my destination, <st1:State><st1:place>Alaska</st1:place></st1:State>. They learn of where I&#8217;m from and comment&#8230;.. &#8220;aren&#8217;t you going the wrong way&#8221;? My response is always &#8220;I&#8217;m taking a short cut&#8221;!<o:p></o:p>
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    I was up pretty early today. It was starting to rain lightly as I packed up camp. I took the time to make coffee and some instant oatmeal. It had rained pretty hard to the west of me during the night. I think the entire <st1:country-region><st1:place>US</st1:place></st1:country-region> mid-west had received more than its share of rain this year. Today would bring some real adventure!<o:p></o:p>
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    From <st1:place><st1:placeName>Balckhawk </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>Lake </st1:placeType><st1:placeName>SP</st1:placeName></st1:place> I was going to do a bit of gravel riding; a short cut to get me up to <st1:place><st1:City>Sioux City</st1:City>, <st1:State>Iowa</st1:State></st1:place>. I missed a turn so I decided to take the next left. The road started to get narrower and narrower. I recall seeing a sign that read &#8220;gravel ends&#8221;. Where I live that&#8217;s an indication that there is pavement ahead&#8230;. wrong assumption here! I had picked up some steam as I crested a hill and before me wasn&#8217;t pavement at all but rather deep, fresh, slippery mud! Oh shit! My bike very quickly got snaky and within seconds I spun around 180 degrees and slid backwards to stop in the slop. Adventure, Yeah! I guess it happens to everyone sooner or later, and this was my very first get-off. No damage done but there was mud everywhere. It took me some time to stand my scoot back up because every attempt to right it using proper techniques resulted in me slipping on my ass to the muddy ground below. Finally I just bent over and picked the beast up. I had to wedge some rocks and wood under the kick stand to keep her up. I&#8217;m kind of lucky the bike fell the way it did because there was no going down the road the way I was headed. I detached the side cases and set them aside. While gently feathering the clutch and throttle, I walked the bike back up the hill to firmer ground. I spent the next half hour trying to clean mud from around the wheels, brakes, fenders, chain & suspension with my hands. When I eventually got back onto Route 20, I stopped at the first car wash I came to and gave both the bike and myself a good spray down!<o:p></o:p>
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    I eventually crossed into <st1:State><st1:place>Nebraska</st1:place></st1:State> on Route 12, &#8220;The Outlaw Trail&#8221;. What a fantastic road in the middle of the plains! I found <st1:State><st1:place>Nebraska</st1:place></st1:State> to be very beautiful in a stark, desolate way. I found the sand hills to be very different; not like anything I had seen before. I quite enjoyed this route. I did start to notice little lumps on the road which turned out not to be cow dung but turtles sunning themselves. At one point I stopped and moved one off the road but he very quickly (for a turtle) went back out. That&#8217;s determination!<o:p></o:p>
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    I had planned to camp at Cottonwood Lake State Park near Merriman, Nebraska but when I got there I found that overnight camping was no longer permitted. Shit, now what! I gassed up and continued on to <st1:place><st1:City>Gordon</st1:City>, <st1:State>Nebraska</st1:State></st1:place> where I decided it best to &#8220;puss&#8221; out and get a motel room due impending severe thunderstorms ahead. I stayed at the Western Sands Motel which turned out to be inexpensive, clean, had wifi and was close to all the amenities&#8230;. Well I did discover that you can&#8217;t purchase alcoholic beverages on Sundays in <st1:place><st1:City>Gordon</st1:City>, <st1:State>Nebraska</st1:State></st1:place>. Good thing I carried some emergency rations of spiced rum!<o:p></o:p>
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    Biffed V-Strom<o:p></o:p>
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    Adventure, hell yeah!<o:p></o:p>
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    Tracks in the mud<o:p></o:p>
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    We&#8217;re having fun now!<o:p></o:p>
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    Along the Outlaw Trail<o:p></o:p>
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    Save the turtles!<o:p></o:p>
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    A cow dog, mooching for some of my jerky<o:p></o:p>
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    My digs for the night<o:p></o:p>
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    #10
  11. Hockeygod

    Hockeygod Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    740
    Location:
    Calgary / Have Skates, Will Travel!
    :eyes

    :clap
    #11
  12. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2003
    Oddometer:
    19,722
    Location:
    Way Out There.
    I'm along for this one.

    :lurk

    'On ya, budd!

    :thumb :thumb
    #12
  13. Twistn'roads

    Twistn'roads Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    392
    Location:
    Cambridge, ON
    Just a quick note about some of the gadgets I equipped myself with for this trip....

    In addition to my Canon camera I set up a helmet video camera system on my bike. I used the VIO POV 1.5 helmet camera fastened to various locations on the bike using RAM ball mounts and clamps. I will be sure to post up some of this video as I get round to editing it. I have hours and hours of footage from every day of my trip!

    I have been using a Garmin GPS map 276c GPS for a number of years. I saved the the track data daily to my computer so I wouldn't loose tracks points and elevation data.

    I used this software to geo tag my pictures with the GPS track data >

    http://software.copiks.com/photomapper/

    I have a Bag Connections City Bag tankbag that is electrified. Within it I had my POV camera recorder powered by the motorcycle electrical system, a Mixit II amplifier that I had both my GPS and iPOd plugged into.

    I carried a Dell Mini 9, and a Transcend 320gb hard drive to back up all my pictures and video to. I did manage to get wifi every couple of days so it allowed be to upload photos to this site as well as stay in touch with family >

    http://www.panoramio.com/user/3171929

    I powered my Givi topbox and equipped it with a small full wave inverter to keep my computer and various other reachable battery items charged up.

    For my family's peace of mind, I carried a SPOT messenger that worked flawlessly, at least for sending OK messages! I never did have to test it's "help" or "911" capabilities! I used this site so friends and family could see my daily progress >

    http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=1444

    Stay tuned for more....

    Steve
    #13
  14. Twistn'roads

    Twistn'roads Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    392
    Location:
    Cambridge, ON
    "We wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfillment."<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>

    ~ Hilaire Belloc
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    Day 4 – June 15<o:p></o:p>
    <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:place><st1:City>Gordon</st1:City>, <st1:State>Nebraska</st1:State></st1:place> > Devil’s Tower, <st1:State><st1:place>Wyoming</st1:place></st1:State><o:p></o:p>
    Today’s mileage: 528.8 km, Trip to date: 2656.1 km<o:p></o:p>
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    [​IMG]<o:p></o:p>
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    I left Gordon this morning under brilliant skies. Today was going to be a great day. There’s nothing that lifts the motorcycle traveler’s spirit like early morning sunshine! Today I would eventually start to head north-west and revisit the Black Hills of South Dakota. I had been out here a few years back and really enjoyed the riding in the area. I took in a few of my favourite roads: Custer SP Wildlife Loop, Iron Mountain Rd up to Mt Rushmore, Norris Peak Rd, Nemo Rd, and Spearfish Canyon to name a few.<o:p></o:p>
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    I did bump into another ADV Rider from <st1:State><st1:place>Oregon</st1:place></st1:State> at the Pactola Reservoir rest area who was headed east. We talked a bit about my trip to <st1:State><st1:place>Alaska</st1:place></st1:State> and I mentioned to him my travel routes. He made some suggestions that I would later do. I’m sorry I didn’t get your name but thank you!<o:p></o:p>
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    As I was leaving <st1:place><st1:placeName>Spearfish </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>Canyon</st1:placeType></st1:place>, the sky was getting very dark and I could actually hear the sound of thunder bounce off the canyon cliffs inside my helmet. I was riding down the main street of Spearfish when ahead what looked like a tidal wave was quickly approaching from the direction I was headed. I recall a car wash (I’ve gotten good at spotting them this trip!) I just passed and quickly did a u-turn and headed back for cover. Good thing because within seconds hail and heavy rain dropped out of the dark sky above. It was very intense and as the car wash roof was made of metal, very loud too! A number of cars came along looking for a place to seek shelter and one fellow squeezed in behind me. The hail was at least the size of dimes and would have hurt like hell had I kept going. I waited for the storm to pass for about 45 minutes. The guy that pulled into the car wash with me was checking the weather radar on his “crackberry” and it appeared that there was a hole in the storm that might allow me to get to the Devil’s Tower unscathed. I was off! Although the skies looked very threatening, I made it to the Devil’s Tower KOA without the sky falling again. The weather forecast for that evening was still very unsettled and after the hail storm earlier, I didn’t feel like sleeping in a tent. I decided to check into a KOA Kabin….. with a view! So much for my travel budget!<o:p></o:p>
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    I unpacked and went out in search of supplies (beer). It just so happens that the KOA store had what I was after. The nice lady working there also invited me to a nightly showing of “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” to be shown on the patio right bellow the Devil’s Tower itself…… no shit! That was of course if it didn’t rain. I went back to my “kabin”, cooked up a pot of soup, drank my beers, downloaded my photographs, updated the photo site, had a fine KOA shower, and retired to my “kabin” where I promptly fell asleep dreaming of alien abduction and curvy roads strewn with big beastly bison…. :rofl <o:p></o:p>
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    Roadside rest area view along Route 385<o:p></o:p>
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    Where the Antelope roam…..<o:p></o:p>
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    I have a great deal of respect for these big dudes, especially when riding a motorcycle! I’ll explain sometime…..<o:p></o:p>
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    More of them<o:p></o:p>
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    And yet many more!<o:p></o:p>
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    <st1:place>Mount Rushmore</st1:place><o:p></o:p>
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    <st1:place><st1:placeName>Spearfish </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>Canyon</st1:placeType></st1:place> water fall<o:p></o:p>
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    In <st1:place><st1:placeName>Spearfish </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>Canyon</st1:placeType></st1:place><o:p></o:p>
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    Hail storm<o:p></o:p>
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    Looming storms<o:p></o:p>
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    My "Kabin" for the night
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    The view from my “Kabin”<o:p></o:p>
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    Here's some interesting video from the storm in Spearfish....

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    #14
  15. Twistn'roads

    Twistn'roads Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    392
    Location:
    Cambridge, ON
    "Spirit of place! It is for this we travel, to surprise its subtlety; and where it is a strong and dominant angel, that place, seen once, abides entire in the memory with all its own accidents, its habits, its breath, its name."<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>

    ~ Alice Meynell<o:p></o:p>

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    Devil&#8217;s Tower, <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:State><st1:place>Wyoming</st1:place></st1:State> > Red Lodge, <st1:State><st1:place>Montana</st1:place></st1:State> (Alpine Lodge)<o:p></o:p>
    Today&#8217;s mileage: 686.6 km, Trip to date: 3342.7 km<o:p></o:p>
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    As a child, mountains, tall snow capped mountains captured my imagination. They would always be the subject matter of my drawings and paintings. I dreamed of traveling through them as the early settlers, miners and hunters did. Their rugged majestic beauty was a constant lure. I had only ever seen them in pictures and film. As a motorcyclist, I have traveled the eastern mountains; the <st1:place>Appalachians</st1:place>, extensively for about 8 years now. They are an older, more rounded and eroded mountain range than the <st1:place>Rockies</st1:place>. I never tire of the scenery or twisty roads that traverse them. I have always wanted to travel to the western mountains, especially by motorcycle!<o:p></o:p>
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    Today would be a special day. Today would be one of the most exhilarating motorcycle experiences of my life. I left the Devil&#8217;s Tower in light rain. I was glad I got the &#8220;Kabin&#8221; after all. Packing up a wet tent and gear can be a pain. Eventually the weather would clear with only isolated showers here and there. Rather than take 2 lane secondary highways, which is usually my preference, I decided to take I-90 up as far as <st1:City><st1:place>Sheridan</st1:place></st1:City> to get to the mountains quicker, then 14 and 14A over the <st1:place><st1:placeName>Big </st1:placeName><st1:placeName>Horn </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>Mountains</st1:placeType></st1:place> to Cody. From Cody I would ride the Chief Joseph and Beartooth Highways to Red Lodge, <st1:State><st1:place>Montana</st1:place></st1:State>.<o:p></o:p>
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    I wasn&#8217;t on I-90 long when I spotted another motorcycle ahead in the distance. I hadn&#8217;t seen nor talked to any other riders headed in the same direction for days so I picked up the pace to catch up to him. Eventually I closed the distance between us. You got to love the western speed limits! The other rider saw me in his mirrors and pulled aside and gestured for me to move up. I really couldn&#8217;t communicate with him at 130 km/hr so we just waved to one another and I tucked in behind him. We traveled as far as <st1:City><st1:place>Sheridan</st1:place></st1:City> where we both exited I-90 to for fuel. Turns out my fellow traveler was Mike from <st1:place><st1:City>Baden</st1:City>, <st1:State>Ontario</st1:State></st1:place> on his way to an FJR rally in New Denver, BC. He only lives perhaps an hour from my home! Our travel plans were pretty much the same for the day so we decided to ride together. It was actually nice to have some company.<o:p></o:p>
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    One of the neatest memories of that day was when the mountains first came into view, I will never forget. Words cannot adequately describe my feelings at that moment. I had traveled for days on the relatively flat plains. We came over a slight rise and off in the distance were snow capped mountains and they were growing larger by the kilometer! There they were, the mountains of my childhood dreams! What a heart warming sight that truly was. I know Mike was taking it all in as well as he slowed down his pace and was busy snapping pictures with his camera.<o:p></o:p>
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    What can I say about Chief Joseph and Beartooth other than breathtaking! I have never experienced anything quite like this on a motorcycle. Riding a motorcycle up to 10,000 ft surrounded by vast, majestic scenery, passing through snow banks as high as a house, twisting switch backs that you dare not take your eyes from&#8230;&#8230; incredible!<o:p></o:p>
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    Chief Joseph highway GPS tracks<o:p></o:p>
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    My GPS elevation track profile for Day 5<o:p></o:p>
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    Mike and I would eventually share a room at the Alpine Lodge in Red Lodge. I had planned on staying here and Mike didn&#8217;t feel like setting up camp with the dodgy weather forecast being what it was. I think the localized downpour as Mike came into town might have been a motivating factor too! I highly recommend this establishment. The proprietors do cater to motorcycle travelers and heck, breakfast is included!<o:p></o:p>
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    Once we got settled and unpacked into our room, picked up some supplies (beers), Mike and I headed downtown to get a bite to eat. We found a nice pub (that I wish I could remember the name of). After a good meal and plenty of conversation about the day&#8217;s events, we headed back to our bikes parked on the street. I saw a fellow really giving my V-Strom a visual inventory! It turns out this is Les, who lives in Red Lodge and owns a V-Strom as well. We all stood there on the street chatting motorcycles for some time until I suggested that we head back to the Alpine for some cold beer waiting in the fridge. We carried on our BS&#8217;ing until late into the evening. What an awesome day this was. Mike, thank you for sharing it with me!<o:p></o:p>
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    Mike from <st1:place><st1:City>Baden</st1:City>, <st1:State>Ontario</st1:State></st1:place><o:p></o:p>
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    Panoramic view from the <st1:place><st1:placeName>Big </st1:placeName><st1:placeName>Horn </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>Mountains</st1:placeType></st1:place> looking west<o:p></o:p>
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    Beartooth <st1:place>Western Summit</st1:place><o:p></o:p>
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    Mike & Les enjoying some stimulating motorcycle conversation over a few beers!<o:p></o:p>
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    #15
  16. waterlilly

    waterlilly No Agenda World Tour

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    817
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    great pics Steve, really enjoying the updates.
    #16
  17. Twistn'roads

    Twistn'roads Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    392
    Location:
    Cambridge, ON
    Here are a couple of crudely edited video clips from Day 5, one is of riding I-90 on the Wyoming plains with the Rockies in the distance and the other, a bit longer clip (may take some time to load if you have a slow internet connection) of riding over Beartooth pass.

    Enjoy!

    <object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5768847&amp;server=vimeo.com&amp;show_title=1&amp;show_byline=1&amp;show_portrait=0&amp;color=&amp;fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5768847&amp;server=vimeo.com&amp;show_title=1&amp;show_byline=1&amp;show_portrait=0&amp;color=&amp;fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/5768847">Rockies in the Distance</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1395998">Twistn'Roads</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

    <object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5776303&amp;server=vimeo.com&amp;show_title=1&amp;show_byline=1&amp;show_portrait=0&amp;color=&amp;fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5776303&amp;server=vimeo.com&amp;show_title=1&amp;show_byline=1&amp;show_portrait=0&amp;color=&amp;fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/5776303">Riding Over Beartooth Pass</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1395998">Twistn'Roads</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
    #17
  18. Twistn'roads

    Twistn'roads Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    392
    Location:
    Cambridge, ON
    "When I was very young and the urge to be someplace was on me, I was assured by mature people that maturity would cure this itch. When years described me as mature, the remedy prescribed was middle age. In middle age I was assured that greater age would calm my fever and now that I am fifty-eight perhaps senility will do the job. Nothing has worked. . . In other words, I don't improve, in further words, once a bum always a bum. I fear the disease is incurable."<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>


    ~ John Steinbeck<o:p></o:p>

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    Day 6 – June 17<o:p></o:p>
    Red Lodge, <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:State w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Montana</st1:place></st1:State> > St <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Mary</st1:City>, <st1:State w:st="on">Montana</st1:State></st1:place> (KOA)<o:p></o:p>
    Today’s mileage: 762.4 km, Trip to date: 4105.1 km<o:p></o:p>
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    I was up early today. Both Mike and I had fairly long distances planned. I was headed to the east side <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placeName w:st="on">Glacier</st1:placeName> <st1:placeType w:st="on">National Park</st1:placeType></st1:place>, and Mike, somewhere to the west. Les had checked the National park Service website the night before to see if Going to the Sun Highway was open and unfortunately it was still closed at <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placeName w:st="on">Logan</st1:placeName> <st1:placeType w:st="on">Pass.</st1:placeType></st1:place> I would have to alter my planned route a bit but not before we had a tasty plate of pancakes and eggs!<o:p></o:p>
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    I was headed north today, following the edge of the <st1:place w:st="on">Rocky Mountains</st1:place>. We left Red Lodge on SR-78. What a fun twisty road this was, although you had to keep your eyes open for deer. They were everywhere this morning. Mike and I followed 78 up to I-90 that we then took for about 100 km to the west. From there we headed north again on 89. I would pretty much follow 89 all the way up to St Mary, the eastern gate to Glacier NP. Mike and I rode together to the junction of 89 & 12 where we pulled off to the side of the road, shook hands and wished each other safe journey. I enjoyed riding with Mike and hoped to stay in contact when I got home.<o:p></o:p>
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    I found the roadways here to be quite desolate with very little traffic. This was very much to my liking. I did encounter some very strong cross winds as I was getting closer to <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Great Falls</st1:place></st1:City> that did have me somewhat frazzled. I could not imagine trying to ride a motorcycle in this all day!<o:p></o:p>
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    I decided to camp at the KOA in St Mary primarily to use their wifi to update my picture site and email my family. It sucked! It was very slow with piss poor connectivity. It must have been all the other “kampers” using it at the same time! I should have just camped in the National Park. Oh well, at least their showers were warm and clean! After setting up camp I did go up Going To The Sun highway at least as far as I could, maybe around 13 miles. It is very scenic and I imagine more so further up. I guess this is good reason to come back one day to see the rest!<o:p></o:p>
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    The “cook” fabin’ up a batch of pancakes and eggs!<o:p></o:p>
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    And Mike and I eatin’ it up!<o:p></o:p>
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    Farewell Mike<o:p></o:p>
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    I did have a nice camp site<o:p></o:p>
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    Painted sky to end the day<o:p></o:p>
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    #18
  19. Ooobah-Moto

    Ooobah-Moto Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,809
    Location:
    Toronto / London
    Great pics TR,

    Nothing like a long trip to reset your mind.
    #19
  20. Twistn'roads

    Twistn'roads Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    392
    Location:
    Cambridge, ON
    "Too often. . .I would hear men boast of the miles covered that day, rarely of what they had seen."<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>

    ~ Louis L'Amour
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    Day 7 &#8211; June 18<o:p></o:p>
    St <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:place><st1:City>Mary</st1:City>, <st1:State>Montana</st1:State></st1:place> > <st1:place><st1:City>Balfour</st1:City>, <st1:State>British Columbia</st1:State></st1:place> (Toad Rock Campground)<o:p></o:p>
    Today&#8217;s mileage: 535.3 km, Trip to date: 4640.5 km<o:p></o:p>
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    I woke early again today. I&#8217;m starting to get into a travel rhythm now. I find I cannot sleep in due to the early rising sun and chirping birds, even as comfortable as my down sleeping bag and Exped mattress are! Also, I like the early starts because there is little traffic if any and plenty of wildlife viewing opportunities. The sky was overcast and there was a cold wind blowing. I was concerned that maybe the decent weather I had been traveling in the last few days was about to change. That was not the case. As I packed up camp and cooked up some coffee and oatmeal, the sky cleared. It would be another great day!<o:p></o:p>
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    I traveled north up to the Canadian border on <st1:Street><st1:address>Chief Mountain International Highway</st1:address></st1:Street>. There was not a soul on this road nor at the Customs barricades. After a couple of quick questions by the border official I entered back into Canada and was greeted by a wonderful scenic view of Waterton NP, Alberta. I continued north through the park on Highway 6 up to Highway 3, <st1:Street><st1:address>Crowsnest Highway</st1:address></st1:Street>, where I would head west again towards <st1:State><st1:place>British Columbia</st1:place></st1:State>. Everything changed at this point. Traffic became busy with a barrage of transport trucks, campers and RVs. I was not impressed. Perhaps I was just getting used to the desolate highways I had being traveling only days prior. I had wanted to visit <st1:place><st1:placeName>Crowsnest </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>Pass</st1:placeType></st1:place> but at this point I hardly felt it was worth it. Once I got west of <st1:City><st1:place>Cranbrook</st1:place></st1:City>, there was a definite improvement. The real &#8220;gem&#8221; of the day was Highway 3A between Creston and the <st1:place><st1:placeName>Kootenay </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>Lake</st1:placeType></st1:place> ferry. This road was very twisty, scenic as it followed the lakeshore and blessed with new pavement!<o:p></o:p>
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    After the very enjoyable, scenic, &#8220;free&#8221; ferry crossing to Balfour, I gassed up and picked up some supplies at the local general store. I went up the road a little ways to camp at the Toad Rock Motorcycle Campground ><o:p></o:p>
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    http://www.toadrockcampground.com/<o:p></o:p>
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    This place was a hoot! It&#8217;s not quite like any campground I&#8217;ve stayed at before. Mary, the owner, is a very cheerful and colourful character who made me feel very welcome. The offer of an ice cold beer when I first rolled in was a nice touch! She was quite busy preparing for an upcoming rally but always had time to chat or answer any questions I had. The shower facilities were actually some of the best I&#8217;d encounter on this trip.<o:p></o:p>
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    A funny thing happened while I was setting up my tent. I pretty much had the campground to myself. Mary came back on her golf cart with two other passengers joyfully sipping on beers. Low and behold, one these dudes was Mike! He was still on his way to the FJR gathering just up the road a ways. I&#8217;m sorry; I&#8217;ve forgotten the other fellows&#8217; name. I&#8217;m pretty sure he said he frequents this site. We BS&#8217;ed for a while, comparing notes on our routes from the previous day. I would frequently meet other riders on my trip that I would keep bumping into as I headed north. I guess it&#8217;s inevitable because there are only so many roads and gas stations the farther north you go.<o:p></o:p>
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    Later that evening as I was wrapping up my shower, a trio of Harleys rumbled into the campground. I struck up a conversation with these guys as they were trying to set up their tents and learned that they (Phil, John and Dean) were headed to <st1:State><st1:place>Alaska</st1:place></st1:State> as well. Actually they were headed to Phil&#8217;s home in <st1:place><st1:City>Wasilla</st1:City>, <st1:State>Alaska</st1:State></st1:place>. No kidding and I was going there too! I talked Phil&#8217;s ear off over the course of the evening after learning this and I&#8217;m sure they all thought there might not be something quite right about me! We shared some drinks and laughs at TR&#8217;s common area late into the night. As my trip progressed we would become good friends.<o:p></o:p>
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    Killing time waiting for the ferry<o:p></o:p>
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    Ferry on <st1:place><st1:placeName>Kootenay </st1:placeName><st1:placeType>Lake</st1:placeType></st1:place><o:p></o:p>
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    Coming into <st1:place><st1:City>Balfour</st1:City>, <st1:State>BC</st1:State></st1:place><o:p></o:p>
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    Mike shows up<o:p></o:p>
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    My home for the night<o:p></o:p>
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    Hmmmmm, meatballs ala Toad Rock<o:p></o:p>
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    Dinner guest<o:p></o:p>
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    Easy date!<o:p></o:p>
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    Mary of Toad Rock<o:p></o:p>
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    #20