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Discussion in 'Hacks' started by TheOtherBart, Jun 23, 2016.
I did a while back but I had pretty much made up my mind at that point to get it professionally mounted so I didn't study them too closely.
That chart I great, thanks. Stan mentioned that he wished the car could have been mounted farther forward, so that seem to be consistent with what the chart says. Maybe the toe/lean can be adjusted to compensate.
You are discovering common issues for new hack riders. On the steering, it was the same for my DL650 VStrom. I had Jay install the leading legs and now it steers with ease. I recommend you call Jay and determine if he has them for your bike. On the handlebars I kept the stock bars on mine but added ROX adjustable risers to get the perfect feel.
And that's a nice rig.
Help me out, Jay...?
Owner of DMC Sidecars. They make steering mods for lots of different bikes.
Edit; here ya go. Triple trees for your bike are $550
Awesome, thanks. For that kind of money I may just accept the workout for the rest of this season, but an upgrade is definitely on the agenda.
Meanwhile, check your tire pressure. Experiment with it even.
Will do. I know it desperately needs a new tire, too
Operating & set up info: http://www.sidecar.com/links3.asp
Make one adjustment at a time, and record what you do.
Oops, thanks Kip. I thought Jay at DMC was mentioned in one of the earlier posts.
And you can install these by yourself. They look a bit complicated at first sight and will probably require front caliper relocation and thus new brake lines but that's all doable. The caliper relocation points are part of the LLs. I had DMC install my Strom because they are about 50 miles away and it was very convenient.
I'd post a pic of mine but Photobucket is so contentious now that it is a real chore to post a pic. He had them on a nice Ducati in his shop when he showed me what they looked like. He fabricates them there at his shop for different bikes.
Leading legs, or leading link, is what I would choose if there were multiple choices. But I've heard it said over and over, "trail reduction is trail reduction". It really doesn't matter How you do it, but it looks better, and modified triple trees often lower the front end.
Swap some bars in that give you more leverage and drop your front tar pressure.
I've got raked trees on my road king-hannigan rig and still run 25-30 on the front.
a pic just because
I'm shopping for wider bars, and doing research on trail reduction for next spring. But for now I think tweaking the setup to get the rig tracking a little better will help. Turning to the right was easy, it was turning to the left that was kind of a struggle.
My buddy who took me to pick the bike up and followed me home mentioned that the bike was noticeably leaning towards the car. From what I've been reading it sounds like the bike should be vertical (if not leaning slightly away from the car) when it's loaded. And the chart posted says that increasing "lean out" is a solution to hard turning away from the car. All together that makes it seem like adjusting the lean would be a prudent move. Sound reasonable to the experts?
If I get a head nod or two on the basic idea I'll post a couple of pictures of the mounting links and figure out the best specific approach.
chair should be level side to side and the bike should lean away a couple degrees or so.
Most rigs I see the chair and bike are leaned towards each other, I've seen plenty of brand new Urals this way.
Crowned roads will do that if you don't compensate with the rig's geometry. I'm still dicking around after a year to find the happy spot.
You can go the Fancy/Expensive route and get a modified front end, or the cheap SOB route with me and mount some wider bars for leverage. Having owned a Ural with LL front and now the bandit I feel like the money is best spent on wider bars and front suspension that doesn't get bottomed out on every hard turn by the weight of the tub.
Thanks, that's consistent with what I've read. My bike is definitely leaning towards the car, which it seems could be a part of the "easy right, very hard left" turning behavior.
So in that case I'd like to lean the bike farther away from the car, which means lengthening the upper mounts, yes? Here's the rear upper mount:
It looks like that's just a matter of unbolting the mount from the bike, loosening the big lock nut, and spinning the clevis out a turn or two.
Here's the front upper mount:
The fitting at the bottom is split, and the tube is clamped into it with a pinch bolt (the higher of the two bolts you see at the bottom end of the link). So, loosen that bolt and slide the tube out a bit.
Does that all sound reasonable? Obviously I'll make small adjustments, document everything, tighten well, test ride to see the effects, etc.
I didn't mention that, I did get a lot of bottoming over our lovely frost heaved roads on the maiden voyage. If I end up sticking with the stock forks I'll definitely need stiffer springs.
My Bonneville rig, bought from the second owner, has a modified triple clamp to reduce trail, but still had the stock springs. I put the stiffest springs available, and a fork brace, and that's made a world of difference in how well it handles the twisties at speed.
Check your toe in before and after changing your lean out.
The fitting attached to the bike for the lower mount needs to be rotated 90 degrees so the bike will lean without putting things in a bind. The front mount appears to be OK.