Mysteries of the Pamir

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by Mara Loochezarny, Jan 8, 2012.

  1. Yahoo

    Yahoo n00b

    Joined:
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    nice one bud!

    It's good to get a bit of local info on the place. When my wife and I went through there we obviously did'nt speak the lingo and I think we missed alot. I was also suffering quite badly from altitude sickness induced by having to push my wife's bike up and down the street in karakol in full bike kit. we actually passed out in a valley just past Murghab and slept for 15 hours straight.

    This is bringing back a lot of memories, keep going bud.
    #41
  2. Mara Loochezarny

    Mara Loochezarny Been here awhile

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    28 May. Murgab. 200 km

    Woke up surprisingly early and easily. Feared I would have acute mountain sickness that each fifth ascending traveler will regularly have, but I felt great. Today, I must look for meteorite crater and the ruby stone. For some reason, was sure I would that day)). Both targets were not that mystical, like the cave fire, but they required luck and fortune, or star smiles to be exact. I visually learnt the crater location during Google Earth maps review sessions, but the ruby...
    Morning weather reminded me of an old local saying “All terms of year may change in one day in Pamir”. So it was. Went to café to have breakfast, it was clear and warm. When I left café, a cloud suddenly appeared that generated snow like some ice nebulizer.
    Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDTBSWiFSU4
    Snow stopped when I was leaving the village. Sun came out. Then hid again and the rain began. Nothing uncustomary to Murgab.

    Asphalt ends right after qishlaq. Salt marshes begin with a slight hint of the vehicle trail on surface of an even mountain plateau…
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    Nasty weather again
    Soon I ran into some sort of a mining or some minerals extraction field.

    Serpentine road runs separately in the Mountain – my knowledge tells there is a ruby mine around here).

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    Did not hope to find it that fast. So I left the mine for later, and went on to crater. Drove a long way… some more… it would not show up. Chose the tack and tack riding manner so not to miss it, would not help…Decided to go back and full throttled to almost hop into an earth mouth. It was that crater! Happiness got soon replaced with strange anxiety feeling. I swear the place conveyed some feeling of extraterrestrial cold. It took me a long time to pull together to approach the crater. It is about 50 meters in diameter and 10 deep. Edges however already collapsed for rain and wind erosion. .
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    I did not find history of how it came there. But I dared to go down to its bottom. So cool! Crater-cool!!
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    Back for rubies!!!) I came to that mine and began to skid to abandoned mine along rock and gravel serpentine road running in upwards direction into the mountains.
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    Soon I got tired. I had not passed a third of the whole distance, but felt unrealistically tired. Tired from happing together with me bike from one side to another, and most of the times tending to jump into the abyss, tired of skidding, and tired of breathing too. Besides, I feared to damage wheels with some sharp rocks. So I jumped off me bike and took a couple of minute walk to see whether I would find a ruby. I did not so I just took off to pass through other session of skidding and hopping. I am done here. I want to get back to Murgab ASAP.

    Much later, it turned out I made a major mistake in my quest. So, it turned out good I did not make it on top of that serpentine and the mine, for it was an abandoned Uranium Mine!
    ))

    General impression of today’s trip is good.
    Made it safe to Qishlaq.

    All Murgab houses are flat-roofed. Rains are rare here.
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    Murgab. Television center.
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    Victory Day Monument
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    Careful! Man with a kid drawn later!
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    Tajik Currency - Somoni.


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    #42
  3. Mara Loochezarny

    Mara Loochezarny Been here awhile

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    On May, 29th Murghab - Gulcha (Kirghizia) 333km


    5.00 mornings Adri sent sms from Khorog, he start. I with surprising accuracy have calculated arrival Адри to Murghab - if at it all will be as at me that of 311 km it will pass for 5 hours of a way. From idleness has gone towards and before entrance to Murghab began to wait for it on militian to a post. Exactly in 10 I have seen a lonely from apart lonely, shone headlight of a motorcycle. However, but for these two days I have really felt, that to me is awfully lonely without mine голанндского the friend, with it is more cheerful. Still it has pleased me with that has not forgotten to take away vodka from Khorog which we have bought in Dushanbe, it on road through заснеженный pass Kokterez also was sincerely cooled, therefore it has appeared absolutely by the way.
    Video http: // www.youtube.com/watch? v=H1aPcanLCyg

    Though and not for a long time, but Аdri has visited Murghab.
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    Pamir Yaks.
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    Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3cNsUGW6w0

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    On the top of highest pass of the former USSR. 4655m
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    The road goes along the Chinese border. China is behind a prickly fence.
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    Welcome to Chine!))
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    The first outpost on new boundaries of Russian empire. A outpost "Pamir". 1902.
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    Now monument.
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    Traffic sign - attention!
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    Kishlak Karakul and high-mountainous salty lake Karakul
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    No works gas station
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    Have crossed border quickly. No cars not present people there. Said : goodbye aside the dark blue sky and snow mountains: " Up to new meetings Pamir!!! "


    Border Tajikistan from Kirghizia

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    I warned Adri that it is necessary to take a helmet the closed face))

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    Hotel, vodka, sms - day is finish)
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    to be continued...
    #43
  4. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

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    um ... 4655m :)
    #44
  5. NightShadow

    NightShadow Adventurer

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    Great pics and report - Keep it coming.
    #45
  6. Benjava

    Benjava ?

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    Location Location
    :clap
    No words
    thank you for this one so much
    can't wait for more












    .
    #46
  7. iz4dja

    iz4dja traveller inside

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Italy, Bologna
    Hi , I'm Marco from Italy and I'm very .happy of this RR and these beautiful Photos,
    I have been in Pamir region in 2010 and I can understand a little of your writing.
    The thing that I would like to tell you is : the People are Magic.
    I remeber that I felt safe like between mother's arms ..... It was great to meet those people.
    Don't know why......
    but It was like a dream ...a real fantastic dream....

    here our 2010 travel:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565738&highlight=marco+paolo&page=3

    and a little video made by me......
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgADwy8Nf7o&list=UUHXxRfOqlDKQ9SSxacLUxmg&index=10&feature=plcp

    ciao
    #47
  8. Mara Loochezarny

    Mara Loochezarny Been here awhile

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    :eek1 sorry mistake))
    #48
  9. Mara Loochezarny

    Mara Loochezarny Been here awhile

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    Nice!! Why we didn't meet?(( Did you go cross Ishkashim?
    i met Jaco & Gemma , good coupl!

    It's true. Tajiks are the poorest, but the most hospitable Central Asia people.
    #49
  10. Mara Loochezarny

    Mara Loochezarny Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    30 May Gulcha-Toktogul. 340km
    In the morning went to look for metal welding service. The metal bike rack has broken from the Pamir roads. Found one in a local car repairs station. They would not agree to do anything, even for money. Laziness is the bane of the Kazakhs and Kyrgyz. Strange local mentality. For some reason, I felt sure that if they agreed they would finish it and do it all the right way. So it happened. And really – they aced it and refused to take any money. The only thing they wanted was to get in the picture.

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    We took off onwards. Road quality is excellent all the way from Gulchi to Bishkek. Road is broad and has all relevant markings, even in the high altitude mountain pass sections Ala-bel and To-Ashu.

    The Ferghana Valley.Only fields around.
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    Uzgen Town between Osh and Jalalabad. Local waiter shows Adri how to eat Samsa – turn it topsy-turvy, cut off the bottom. Each meat from inside and chase it with the cut off bottom.
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    Uzgen Bazaar
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    Locals.
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    Jalalabad Gates
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    Many odd facilities nearby Tash-Kumyr.
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    How River Naryn looks like after numerous Toktogul Water Power Plant cascades. All quietness! And that is not the Naryn that boils in the Naryn Region
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    local 4WD Enduro
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    Toktogul Water Pool.
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    Kyrgyzstan)) – even marijuana grows in the water.
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    The lake is warm and friendly - the best shower for rider!)
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    Kyrgyz mountains are not so high, but attractive in their own ways.
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    I planned to each Bishkek that day, but during swimming we made some thinking to chose to stay in the village.
    #50
  11. Mara Loochezarny

    Mara Loochezarny Been here awhile

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    31 May Toktogul-Bishkek . 295km
    It was Adri’s second day of illegal presence in Kyrgyzstan. His visa expired the same day we entered the Republic. So we had things to keep us busy in Bishkek.
    Toktogul-Bishkek road is luxury! Broad and even, and ever changing variety of beautiful sites.

    There was snow on the Alabel Pass and it was cold. Height – 3,184 m
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    Met a UK couple Jaco & Gemma on the road. They were driving to Pamir from Issyk – Kul. He had Honda Transalp , she had Suzuki DRZ400.
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    To-Ashu Pass Ascend. 3,586 meters. Last pass on our route.
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    Soon we made it to Bishkek.
    Got the visa in two hours, filled our stomachs in and bought gas for bikes. What else does a biker need to proceed? Looks like all. And the last section – 200 km to Almaty.

    Bishkek-Almaty Road. Piece of rainbow as a reward for secure homecoming
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    This trip was two years ago. I did all tasks we spotted, except for Ruby, which I can do later and that is just a Gag after all. Route was a success. Stars were smiling on us!!!
    Upon return, I saw Pamir in my dreams, in all various fantastic forms, for almost one month. It was probably my consciousness that was only beginning to realize and process what happened on that trip. We keep in close touch with Adri. He got back home and Now he has a plan – he wants to bring his Daughter and take the Pamir route again.
    This year I'll be attending Pamir twice. I plan to organize humanitarian aid for children in Murghab. Toys, albums for drawing, books, clothes. I hope this event will grow every year. If you have the desire, their own ideas that would take part in helping please contact me. Your name will be included in the list of participants humanitarian aid for Pamir's children. These lists will be posted in the guest house, the school library and city hall of the Murgab kishlak.

    Some other photos of the Pamir I'll post here as well.

    Thank you very much!

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    Help in the grammar translation - Dauren Zhumabayev
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    #51
  12. squonker

    squonker Eat my shorts

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    Amazing! Thanks for taking us along on the ride!
    #52
  13. Gripforce

    Gripforce Ski Bum

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    Thanks again for the great ride report!
    #53
  14. Yahoo

    Yahoo n00b

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    Bravo! :clap
    #54
  15. Adri Ekstijn

    Adri Ekstijn ekstijn

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    #55
  16. prsdrat

    prsdrat Been here awhile

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    Absolutely amazing! Well done.
    #56
  17. Viking from Denmark

    Viking from Denmark VikingRider

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    ADVENTURE RIDER. It makes sence. Just great. Thanks :clap:clap:clap
    #57
  18. ClayR

    ClayR Animal

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    Great RR. Would love to help the Children of Murgab! PM coming...
    #58
  19. iz4dja

    iz4dja traveller inside

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  20. TRadventure

    TRadventure Adventurer

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    the Mighty
    Dzjengis Khan?



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    #60