Nail and shredded front tube???

Discussion in 'The Perfect Line and Other Riding Myths' started by hardtarge, Jul 21, 2014.

  1. hardtarge

    hardtarge Adventurer

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    Going along highway speed and front bars start to shake bad. Drifted left over the center lane. Then convinced the bike back to the shoulder went through the ditch and into the corn field. . . .


    why would the tire deflate so rapidly? Yes huge hole in the tube. . .

    Poor tubes from the factory?

    Damage? Tire tube. 2 bike lengths of corn. . . Loss of personal Mojo. . .

    Lessons?? Need more tools and spare parts. I guess this is crap learned prior to 500 mile break in service.

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  2. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    That is one of the big drawbacks of tube-type tires. They're basically just thin balloons inside the tire, and like a balloon, when they get punctured, they tend to pop and lose all of their air in a very short time.

    Losing pressure in the front tire at highway speeds is no joke, you did well to ride it out without crashing. Unfortunately, there's not really all that much you can do about punctures like you had there, it's very hard to see a nail in the road when you're riding along at 70+ MPH.

    It's bad luck that you got a flat, but you had great luck in not coming off the bike and being badly hurt. :freaky
    #2
  3. hardtarge

    hardtarge Adventurer

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    Would a tubliss tube. Help in a situation like this??

    Trip into the corn was first time off the pavement for me...
    #3
  4. DesertTortoise

    DesertTortoise Freedom Fighter

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    Tubliss isn't rated for road use if that matters to you. It has a bike tube at 100+psi which basically seals it and makes it like a tubeless tire + rim lock. You can still get a flat tho, it can just keep running on the flat without tearing the tire off. It's really made to run low psi off road that would destroy a normal tube.

    Glad you kept it upright :)
    #4
  5. folknride

    folknride Old Adventurer

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    Well, sometimes I sound like a salesman for this stuff - RideOn - (I'm not), but I'm pretty sure this time it saved me some real unpleasantness. I use it in my tubes, and as you can tell from that nice worn down nail head, it took quite a while for this tire to deflate. Pretty sure I picked it up in a a rancher's yard where we stayed, and rode 30 or so miles of twisty pave and gravel before it gently went flat.
    I'm a fan :clap:clap:clap

    [​IMG]

    (buy the kind that says "for tubes" on it)

    But I'm glad you didn't crash - that would scare the crap out of me!
    #5
  6. JohnCW

    JohnCW Long timer

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    With tubed tires I always carry a can of this stuff on the bike. Haven't had to use it yet, but used a similar product a number of years ago and it worked well enough to get me home. I'll work as long as the tube hasn't completely ruptured. Just be prepared to spent the next 3 weeks scraping the latex of your wheel and bike as it goes everywhere as you ride along till it sets up.

    [​IMG]
    #6
  7. just jeff

    just jeff Long timer

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    Regarding sudden tube failures due to nails....The synthetic rubber tubes commonly available today tend to run/split when punctured and don't take to patching well. I look for and use natural rubber tubes which don't display these bad traits. As far as the Tubliss system....Still no 17" size available to fit the rear of the KLR. I believe a nail through the tire could puncture the Tubliss inner tube causing a sudden loss of pressure as well. My last flat on a gravel road at 60mph. No controll issues other than a slight squirrley feeling. Rode it home slow to save the tire. Tube had the valve stem torn out after going flat. One inch tear in tube at site of screw. Think Tubliss would have survived here? OR a Tubeless tire? 3/4 hr later and a new tube it was going again.

    Screw in through the tread and out the sidewall of a MOTOZ Tractionator on my KTM690
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #7
  8. DesertTortoise

    DesertTortoise Freedom Fighter

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    The Tubliss inner tube probably would have survived that one... You'd still have a hole in the sidewall and need a new tire tho instead of a new tube
    #8
  9. foxtrapper

    foxtrapper Long timer

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    Cheap tubes tend to rupture when punctured. Quality tubes, which are quite a bit more expensive, simply puncture. The differences I see between them are the cheaper tubes are thinner walled, more plasticy vs rubbery, and tend to be smaller and therefore further stretched upon inflation. I see this in everything from bicycles to farm equipment and motorcycles. Cheap tube look like they've shattered when punctured, expensive quality tubes have a repairable hole.
    #9
  10. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades...

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    Here's a thought based on what I saw once at a bike shop where I worked...

    The mechanic (not a technician, a real mechanic :D) was putting a tire on the front wheel of a CB500. Broke the tire down... no tube! :eek1

    Someone had wrapped the rim with duct tape and put in a tubeless tire valve and mounted a tubeless tire (most are tubeless now, thank the GS and other tubeless adventure bikes). The damn thing actually sealed up!

    Now I'm not saying to do this, but the thought is to run a tubeless type tire, which has an air tight membrane inside that make it air tight, and duct tape the rim in place of the rim strip before mounting the tire. Most rims now have a good bead seat like most tubeless rim profiles. Now odds are the only place air can escape is the valve area and whatever hole is in the tire.

    That would stop any rapid leakage at any spoke holes. Maybe gives more time to get off the road when there is a puncture.

    No guarantees, but if it works, it's worth it.

    Don't be concerned running a tube in a tubeless tire. It's common practice and most manufacturers will tell you it reduces the speed rating by one level. Not many will be running around at triple digits for miles at a time on roads.
    #10
  11. scottrnelson

    scottrnelson Team Orange

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    And if it doesn't work, you've only wasted a few hours. :lol3

    Most tube-type rims that I've dealt with aren't designed to hold the bead tightly in place to get the seal that you need for a tubeless tire. I would be surprised if any of them held air for very long, assuming no air leaked out through the spokes.
    #11
  12. hardtarge

    hardtarge Adventurer

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    Well changed the tube I was surprised.

    Hole is about 1/8 in ? Maybe twice the size of the nail uploadfromtaptalk1406167299251.jpg

    My personal mojo maybe restored ride on or slime may have helped?
    #12
  13. T

    T --------------

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    I've sealed spokes on rims before and I'm a believer in this. And use a rubber washer at the valve hole.
    #13
  14. BeMeUp

    BeMeUp neverlost

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    Two words "Tire Balls" jusGOOGLEit. You can run with a hand full of nails in your tire. They're pricey but most front wheel flats at highway speeds don't end cheaply......... as did this one:deal Glad you you only plowed a bit of corn.:rayof
    #14
  15. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades...

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    Just how long does it take you to run a couple of passes of duct tape around the inside of a rim? :huh

    It was common practice years ago. Oddly enough, Motion Pro makes rim strip tape. Some enduro and other sites still point out the tape works in place of a rim strip and odds are it won't break on the trail if a flat has to be fixed. I guess it's a personal choice.

    As far as the tire/rim holding air - Like I said, hard as it was to believe, I saw that CB500 front rim and it was holding air when it came in. :eek1 Obviously it went out with a tube in there.

    I make no recommendations to run without a tube, just mentioning that the tape will seal the spoke holes up for sure. Less places for air to leak. It may be worth doing just for the chance that it will help.
    #15
  16. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    I'll be doing that next time I have to change tires on my DR. It can't hurt, and even if the tire isn't air-tight, it would at least slow the leak down some and improve your chances of being able to stop safely.
    #16
  17. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades...

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    Honestly though, think about it. How many bazillion miles motorcyclists have ridden without a front puncture. The odds of you having a re-occurrence is extremely low.

    The only thing I've ever had happen with a front tire was spinning a tube ripping the stem out on my trials bike in the midst of an event (or maybe not), but no problem, it was a 4 ply and was just about right! :lol3 Now when I spun the rear tube on the third loop and had one more to go, I had to paddle like mad in most traps, 2 ply rear tires flop around quite a bit when flat. I replaced the crap rim locks with screws next time.

    Not to say don't take precautions, but just to say your experience is highly likely to never happen again.
    #17
  18. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    I've never had a front flat, just one rear. But I'll need a new rim strip next time a change tires anyway so I might as well try the duct tape trick.
    #18
  19. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades...

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    Oops, didn't look at the names on the posts... my bad.
    #19
  20. fast1075

    fast1075 Fasterizer

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    I had a front puncture on my DRZ-400sm. Didn't crash, but it was a PITA. So I adapted a set of tubeless wheels, carried a plug kit and compressor after that. End of problem.

    I used to drag race, and in the old days, that meant using tubes. After pulling the valve stems out of a gazillion rear tubes, I sealed the spokes and ran the slick tubeless. It did leak a bit, but a top-off a few minutes before a run was simple (since I had compressed air to operate the controls). Made my life a LOT easier.
    #20