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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by neduro, Aug 24, 2004.
For as cheap as tire irons are, there's no good reason not to pick a couple up.
A screwdriver will probably pinch or put a hole in a tube. That will cost as much as tire irons. Screwdrivers will probably chew up the rims, too.
Changing tires are much easier with the long, 15 in. Motion Pro tire irons that neduro used in his writeup.
Good advice. At home, I have these tools:
For the road, this:
Just added (3) 8" ultra light Tusk irons to the travel kit, will try them soon (at home).
advice taken. Was easier to find it here in local neighbourhood than I thought!
Tried the zip-tie method yesterday on a T-63 rear. Could not make it work. Maybe I didn't tighten them enough? The beads were perhaps 3/4" apart, Afterwards, I wondered whether the beads are supposed to be touching the valve stem?
Didn't help that it was cool and rainy outside (11C/51F), though I brought the tire and tube inside for 90 minutes before heading out to the driveway to wrestle with it. Sunshine to warm the tire seems to help a lot.
Gave up eventually and did it the regular way. That T-63 rear was a stubborn SOB.
I have a T-63 on my 21" front and it's been the toughest b**ch to spoon on or off the rim, can't imagine what a rear must be like.
Try resting the tire next to a warm (not HOT!) heat source, like an electric heater ... or maybe sleep with it ...
EDIT: missed this part, glad you made it.
I placed the tire on top of the floor heat register in the house for 90 minutes or so to warm it. An hour or 2 in the sunshine seems to be the best way, but we aren't having much of that here yet.
We put a T-63 rear on Wifey's Super Sherpa last year, and it was difficult too. Her T-63 front wasn't nearly too bad
On my bike, I have run MT-21 fronts the last 2 changes, and they are easier to mount.
I really wanted the zip tie method to work. I suspect I needed to cinch the ties tighter. Will do more research before the next attempt.
I'm working on changing my tires for the first time this weekend...well, second time total, first time working with a tubed tire. Of course, after spending all day yesterday fighting it, I find this thread and see things that I've been doing wrong.
I'm changing out the stock Battle Wings on my 800 XC and putting on Full Bores. Just been working with the rear so far, but holy hell, it's been an effort so far--these tires are stiff! Took way longer than expected to get the old rear off, and then WAY more effort than expected to get the new one on. (In hindsight, I realize we weren't doing a good job of keeping the opposite bead in the dish.) Eventually though, we got the tire on the rim, and right as we were going to try inflating it, I noticed I'd pinched the tube under the bead. Not wanting to deal with it anymore for the evening, I set it aside for today.
Hopefully things go better today, but I'm wondering, is the tube compromised now that it's been pinched, or is it OK to pull it off and start over since I never tried airing it up?
Put some air in and see if you pinched a hole in it, if no leaks why not use it.
O.K. this may not be the correct place for this question but I will try anyway.
I am not ready to try swapping out the tires on my V-Strom at home yet, but I did remove/re-install my rear wheel after having someone else (Cycle Gear) actually put on the new tire.
Here's the problem. When I put the new tire on I flipped the axle end-to-end as recommended by a lot of V-Strom'ers, which worked my better. The problem is that, when I installed the axle/wheel I had to loosen the chain adjustment bolts on both sides just to get the axle in. And even after loosening it about 1 full turn, the chain is tight. Like much tighter than it was before I started.
This make no sense at all to me. Why would the adjustment change when replacing a tire? Any chance I totally screwed the pooch on this?
Thanks in advance.
Kevan "Wretch with a wrench" Garrett
Have you put the axle back to the original position and seen if the chain adjusts ok?
Reason I ask is a buddy adjusted his chain too tight with a heavy load: he blew out the clutch and shifter on a pothole. Ugly mess ----
Go back over your work. Make certain that the chain is riding properly on the primary and secondary sprockets. Make certain that the chain adjusters are properly seated on the ends of the swingarm. Spin the back wheel and make certain that the chain is tracking in a straight line on the sprockets. Make certain the the axle is properly engaged with the adjusters. If all else fails, change the axle back to the original configuration.
I put over 33,000 miles on my Wee Strom and never saw any need to change the axle installation.
Remount the tire with a new tube. Even if the tube does not leak now, it may very well blow out down the road in a week or two. I hope you like your Full Bore tires, I've put a set on an XRR and they are wearing like iron, perfect for dual sportin.in Mexico.
Great tips here...filed away for future use.
Just changed my, I believe, sixth or seventh tire. I was having an unbelievable amount of trouble, which is unusual, but reviewed Ned's instructions, kept the bead in the dish ( I had forgotten that point) and had it on lickety-split!
A thousand thanks to Neduro!
yeah, that bead in the dish thing is the main point.... i just bought one of those tusk bead buddy's from RATV, and those are the shizzit... getting another one as i type this.... w/2 of them, set at 90 degrees apart, the bead is pretty much in the dish everywhere you're working... real easy!....
Just did my first tire change ever :)
It took me ~5 hours including drilling holes an installing rimlocks, however, I finished the operation without pinching any tubes, that'll count as a success for me.
Breaking the bead of the rear K60 Scout (140/80-18) was a rather tricky thing, in the end we managed to do it...with three people and a crossbar.
I installed Mt21's by the way.
Thanks for the tutorial, sure helped me along the way
Sent from my A501 using Tapatalk HD
Changing tires myself for the first time.
Good instructions and swapped the front without much trouble.
I have run into a completely different problem on the rear.
I am working on a 2000 LC4 640.
I can't get the axle out. I removed the nut and adjuster on the right side. Loosened the adjuster on the left. with much effort and penetrating oil I have it out about 2 inches and am having a hell of a time getting the axle to move further to allow the wheel to be removed.
Am I missing something here? Is there something else to remove to get the axle to slide out?
I got it soaking with more penetrating oil and and will fight with it again later.
Any advice would be appreciated. Hopefully getting the tire on the rear won't be as hard as getting the axle out.
Grease the axle that's showing and then tap it back in and rotate the axle . Grease the threaded side and try removing it again while rotating. Some people forget to grease the axles which makes it hard to remove them with time.