Need help removing alternator bolt

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by matteo, Oct 30, 2005.

  1. SmutMug

    SmutMug Banned

    Joined:
    May 29, 2004
    Oddometer:
    40
    Let's just hope I don't need it ... Diving into the garage again in 30 mins. to finih up the wiring ... didn't get it done Monday and this week has been hell as pretty much everything that could go wrong at work did ...
    #21
  2. sharkey

    sharkey XLV750R

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2003
    Oddometer:
    875
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    Well, exactly. If your BMW rotor burns out, you can get one shipped in or pay someone to rewind it. If your EnDuraLast rotor goes, same options.

    What I'm getting at is that there's an assumption that the entire world is covered in smiling BMW dealers with vast stocks of Airhead spares, just waiting for you to pop in and ask. Whereas, in reality, even in country Australia you'll be getting those parts in the post or making do by modifying other auto parts.

    -----sharks
    #22
  3. SmutMug

    SmutMug Banned

    Joined:
    May 29, 2004
    Oddometer:
    40
    Just finished up installing my system. I ended up leaving all the old wiring in place, as I might put the old stuff back when I move this over to the G/S. I have to admit I'm smitten by this thing. I might just end up putting a new set in the G/S.

    I did it a bit different than others ... I mounted the rectifier behind the grille on the R80RT, on one of the frame tubes. A small bracket provides support for straps. For grounds, I wired 2 car-sized battery negative cables. One to the frame and one to the battery negative. The wiring is the easy bit. First thing I noticed was that the gen light comes on a tad later than normal when you turn the key. It fired right up and the Datel voltmeter I wired up went to 13.9 right away. Anything over 1500 rpm goes to 14.2 v. Lights, electric vest and 70W converter seemed to have marginal impact. I like it … I’ll post a full report tomorrow with some pics
    #23