Need Help. Spark Spug Removal Debacle!

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by dave6253, Jul 4, 2009.

  1. dave6253

    dave6253 GCBAR Explorer

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    I'll save you guys the trouble, I"M AN IDIOT!:loco

    This is what my spark plug hole looks like right now.
    [​IMG]

    This is the other end of the guilty PART!
    [​IMG]

    This is how I screwed it up. Replacing the spark plugs should be easy right? After gettin started today I found a local KTM shop sold me a USED SPARK PLUG!!! Of course they are closed until tuesday! So off I went to two different auto parts places before I found a NEW plug. Then I realize none of my spark plug wrenches are thin enough to fit down the tight shaft. The guilty tool you see above is a spark plug wrench from my Aprilia tool kit. I found that if I filed down the corners of the cheap pressed steel wrench it just barely fit. I was unsrewing the plug when the resistance began increasing from the tight walls of the shaft. Then SNAP! The spot welds on the wrench broke. Now I have the spark plug wrench STUCK in my engine! I removed the valve cover and spark plug insert to get more access to the wrench, but I've only been able to pull on the wrench with needlenose pliers, and it ain't budging. I took a 5/8" bolt and ground it down enough to fit inside the cylinder, but the threads won't bite the steel enough to apply upward pressure.

    ANY IDEAS?:dunno I really need my bike back together pretty quickly.
    #1
  2. ElRod

    ElRod Been here awhile

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    This "mite" work. Remember that a "mite" is something on a chickens ass. Go to a plumbing supply house and ask for a nipple remover of the appropriate size, I'm guessing 1/2". This is a cam that grips the inside of a broken pipe for removal. Anyone with plumbing experience please chime in with the proper name of this tool. I would begin soaking it now with any kind of penetrating oil now (Kroil comes to mind) or any of the varieties of WD-40. As a last resort you could use a dremel type tool to grind out the Aprilia tool. Get those cams covered up now and clean them before start up! You got crud all over them.
    #2
  3. triplenickel

    triplenickel Long timer

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  4. dave6253

    dave6253 GCBAR Explorer

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    Thanks! That just might work.:bow

    As far as the crud, the little specks all over the valves are shiny areas of the finish (I hope this is normal?). It looks like a metal shaving may have nicked the dark finish at various locations.:dunno The valve area is still pretty clean. I do have quite a bit of crud inside the plug shaft though.
    #4
  5. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Dave I had a similar problem. Did your wrench grip and start moving the plug out? If so you need to screw the plug back down to get enough movement to move the wrench.

    I know this sounds strange but if you can get a bar the same diameter, pack or glue so itÂ’s a tight fit inside the spark plug spanner and gyrate it like your moving around a cone in an anticlockwise movement it will slowly screw the plug in and hopefully do the trick.

    Put your rocker cover back on and blow any shit of the spark plug port with an air line before removing the plug.
    #5
  6. dave6253

    dave6253 GCBAR Explorer

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    After 3 trips to Home Depot this morning I'm on my last attempt, hopefully. I bought a 3 pack of the pipe extractor wrenches and, of course, the 1/2" was too big, and the 3/8" was far too small. 20 minutes later I returned the wrenches and bought a package of threaded extractor screws, also in the plumbing section. Again, No GO!

    Thanks for the last idea. I went back and purchased JB Weld. (I don't think the wife would be happy if I came home with a $600 welder.) I glued the hex rod back into the pipe. I am waiting for it to dry and will try screwing the plug back in. Cross your fingers and let's all pray it works this time.

    I've got a 10 day ride I was planning to leave for on friday.
    #6
  7. StevenD

    StevenD Hmmmm, dirt!

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    Looks like you have a lot more clearance to work with if you remove the cam bridge to fit a grip wrench.

    could remove the head and tap it out with the plug as well, if all fail's.
    #7
  8. dave6253

    dave6253 GCBAR Explorer

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    Anyone wanna buy a partially disassembled 990 with a free tool... inside?:confused

    The JB Weld works! The wrench is now back together. Unfortunately it will not come out. I can now turn it either way and apply much more upward pressure, but it will not come out.

    So.... How hard is pulling the engine apart? If it's apart, wouldn't the wrench still have to eventually come out of the same hole?

    I'm losing patience. Maybe I'll take a big hammer to the entire bike.:kboom
    #8
  9. xdbx

    xdbx Motorcycle Connoisseur

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    you dont need to pull the engine apart Dave, Give me a call if you need a walkthrough, but basically you'll need to pull off the cam bridge as mentioned earlier, and thread it out over your wrench. Pull the cams after finding TDC and locking the crank, slip the cam chain off after loosening the tensioner, and undo the headbolts and pull the entire head off. I believe you'll need a new gasket for that through. Check the cam chain R&R in the HOW for some more info and pictures regarding much of this procedure, or pick up the phone.

    Good luck bud!
    #9
  10. Venteuri

    Venteuri I don't give a shit

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    :lol3


    No, wait.. there are days that even doing the best, things don't work as you expected.

    Take a day or two off and then come back to wrenching...
    #10
  11. cjracer

    cjracer AWD please!!

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    I agree, sometimes it's just best to take a step back.:baldy

    Good luck.
    #11
  12. Vicks

    Vicks gets stuck in sand

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    whatever you do, donot use the spark plug as a leverage point to apply pressure on the wrench. If the plug threads strip (on the Cyl Head) then you will be looking at major $$$.

    wish you luck.
    #12
  13. Iwantabikesobad

    Iwantabikesobad Long timer

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    Is the spark plug also seized? If I read correctly the thin wall socket has swelled in diameter and stuck in the hole. Is this correct? Is there room to tap on the sides of the socket with a long punch, Turning it hour glassed shaped. can you drill through the sidewall of the socket attache a small hook and sparingly use a slide hammer to lift the socket out one side at a time?
    #13
  14. dave6253

    dave6253 GCBAR Explorer

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    The spark plug is not seized( at least there's some good news). I have unscrewed the plug to the point it's completely out of the threads. With no threads left to push the wrench up the tip of the swollen wrench is just barely inside the hole. I don't see a way to get a punch inside there to reshape anything. I tried drilling a hole through the hex rod, but it's solid steel and I apparently don't have the right drill bits.

    I have been able to turn and rock the wrench back and forth, hopefully slowly enlarging the smallest part of the shaft. I put a small C clamp on the end of the wrench and used a leverage bar to pull straight up. The C clamp eventually slips off though.... so I JB Welded the clamp in place. When it dries we'll see how that works.

    xdbx, Correct me if I'm wrong, but even if I pull the head off wouldn't the wrench and plug still be in the same shaft and have to come out the same way?

    As far as waiting a couple days, I was planning to start a 10 day ride on Friday.:dunno

    I know I expressed some frustration in the last post, but I haven't taken it out on the bike... yet.:lol3

    Thanks for all the input guys.
    #14
  15. thugdog

    thugdog Druid Revisionist

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    Go buy a mapp gas torch, and a few cans of "Pffft!" compressed air. Try to first remove those nice green Orings with toothpicks,etc. Begin the surgery by heating the contacting surface (i.e., between tool & head) until HOT. Then attach your biggest vicegrips perpendicular onto stuck tool. Invert the can of air and spray tool until COLD. Carefully hit straight upward on vicegrips! Repeat until free. The heat will first slightly increase the size of both surfaces, then the cold will slightly shrink the tool alone.
    #15
  16. StevenD

    StevenD Hmmmm, dirt!

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    That's your next guess.

    screw the plug all the way in, heat the head to 100-120 celcius, quickly cool the tool from it's inside and yank it out!
    #16
  17. xdbx

    xdbx Motorcycle Connoisseur

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    indeed, you'll still need to dislodge the tool somehow, but it seems to me you'll have better luck trying to impact it from within. Hence, removing the head and hitting it from the bottom of the plug. You'll end up destroying the plug.
    #17
  18. fmfpunk

    fmfpunk Hooligan in training

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    +1
    #18
  19. dave6253

    dave6253 GCBAR Explorer

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    As far as I can tell the head cannot be removed while the engine is in the frame.... I tried.

    With everything removed from the top, there is more room to grab the tool. I will continue to try prying it out of the top. I think tapping the plug from the bottom will only cause the end of the plug wrench to swell more anyway.
    #19
  20. dave6253

    dave6253 GCBAR Explorer

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    A friend stopped by with some heavy-duty tools. With vise grips clamped on the wrench below the weld, the spark plug screwed all the way in, and much force applied it finally popped out. With the spark plug screwed out of the threads even a slide hammer couldn't break it free.

    Hopefully I can get the bike back together and running for the trip on Friday.

    Thanks for all the suggestions.:thumb
    Hopefully this ends the documentation of my ignorance.
    #20