Need Ideas for Wiring HDB Switches...

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Dagwood_55, Jul 20, 2013.

  1. Dagwood_55

    Dagwood_55 Long timer

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    I've had the HDB handguards with the mirrors and the top clamp with 4 switches and LED lights on the bottom and 2 on top for a year or so. HDB hadguards are the best IMO.

    So, on top is a plug for my heated gear and a light switch for my BD lights, all plug n play and looks good.

    And on the bottom are the HDB switches and LED lights for my GPS and my HT radio.

    All works well, but the problem is: The wiring to the bottom switches/LED is a rats nest. I started in today trying to clean it up, using nylon wire sheathing (think Chinese handcuffs) and heat shrink tubing. Finally got it all back together and it looks much better. Then when buttoning it back up, I pull out one of the little LED wires. So, since I was using heat shrink, its a major undertaking to replace just one part. Arrrrggggg!!!

    So, before I redo it, I'm rethinking in master plan. Thinking about some kind of plug to run the little wires to. A plug you could just snap the little wires into, or possibly soilder them into.

    But I don't have a clue whats out there to use or get. Any of you techy types got any ideas or a different idea on how to easily clean this mess up??? And make it easier to repair or replace a part/switch/LED??
    #1
  2. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    I agree that wiring is a problem for the HDB which puts switches on the handlebar top clamp. Convenient, yes; a pain the ass to wire. Here is my setup on a KTM 990 Adventure.

    [​IMG]

    Left to right the 4 switches are Rigid LED lights, Switched GPS circuit, Multicolor LED Voltmeter, and ABS Default (on or off).

    Each of these switch/LED pairs has plug connections to Y's which are plugged into either the KTM ACC1 or ACC2 connections on the wiring harness. My first attempt at wiring this is shown below.

    [​IMG]

    The switch wires and LED wires are individually shrink wrapped for a few inches and then each pair is enclosed in a larger shrink wrap which was heated only at the start leaving an unshrunk tube to run to the plug location behind the dash. Semi messy, but not too bad. :huh
    #2
  3. theantipaul

    theantipaul Reforming Neandertal

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    Hi All, been meaning to do a little writeup just for guys to see how we do it here and this ends up being perfect timing as the kid wanted to run some BD LEDs, that meant a complete rewire of his WR400.

    After hearing of this thread, this morning I came in and started, this is by no means the only way, but after trying to fit it as many components as possible into as small as possible an area I had to be pretty clean with the install to make it all work.

    I start with super gluing the LEDs in place,

    [​IMG]

    Then bunching up all the LED ground wires, here's a tip that I do all throughout wiring pretty much everything, I use the heat gun to soften all the wires/shrink tubing so that I can make it take a set when it cools, strip them all and solder to a ground bus.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then do the same with one side of each switch, this will be our 12v bus, to keep everything neat and in place I use a twist tie, it's also important to disturb the LEDs as little as possible throughout the project.

    [​IMG]

    Next is to cut and strip the accessory side of each switch and indicator LED, I cut/strip the the LED side longer for my fat fingers to grab hold of and twist around the switch side.

    [​IMG]

    Then solder in the 4 12v out wires,

    [​IMG]

    This is where I usually test to see where I'm at and if any of the LEDs have failed or pulled out,

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    With all good I shrink tube up those ends,

    [​IMG]

    start bundling for bringing the wires out together and shrink tube them together, note the set after warming up,

    [​IMG]

    Prep the mesh by melting the cut ends together, something I do here is try to melt a lip so that after the shrink tube melts over it it'll make it harder to pull out,

    [​IMG]

    Then use glue shrink tube for this part so the mesh stays put, also note the set in the shrink tube,

    [​IMG]

    Last thing I do is pump silicone in down around as much of the wiring and LEDs as I can, this is the one place I cheat and pry the wires a little to get good penetration.

    [​IMG]

    All that's left is the connector, also when everything is in place I heat up any wires/shrink tube that is in an awkward place and move it while it's warm to take a set for where it eventually will live.

    [​IMG]

    Let me know if you have any questions, please keep in mind, this is just the way we've taken to doing it here.
    Thanks,
    Paul from HDB
    #3
  4. Dagwood_55

    Dagwood_55 Long timer

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    Thanks Paul, now that was what I'm looking for!! In fact I had thought of calling you, but did'nt.

    And you sure are right, don't take much to upset the little LED's. I've got mine all apart now and I'm doing it the same way as you show here. And I'm sure I'll have a question or two.
    #4
  5. theantipaul

    theantipaul Reforming Neandertal

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    We're doing shipping right now, if you need more prewired LEDs or anything else PM me,
    Paul
    #5
  6. HellSickle

    HellSickle Scone Rider

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    Personally, I find those LEDs way too bright for night time. I ganged together all of the LED grounds and run them thru a switched connection to a 22k resistor. I use the switch to dim all of the LEDs at the same time. Even with daytime lighting mode, I still add an additional 1k Ohm to the ground circuit.

    [​IMG]

    I wired my switches & LEDs into the 990 dash to avoid having to mess with them when I pull the bars or triple clamps apart. It also makes them more visible when riding.

    [​IMG]

    Upper right switch is headlight. Just below that is the LED light switch. At the lower right is the dimmer switch.
    #6
  7. Dagwood_55

    Dagwood_55 Long timer

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    You're right about them being bright at nite. I rarely ride at nite, too many deer around here, but if I do, I put a piece of tape over them. The risistor idea sounds good though. You just wire the risistor in line??
    #7
  8. HellSickle

    HellSickle Scone Rider

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    You can zoom in on the diagram in the photo. See the switch that toggles the ground line. When the switch is open, all the ground current has to flow thru a 22k resistor. When the switch is closed, the current goes thru a 22k/1k parallel combination (~950 Ohm equivalent).

    LEDs are essentially a current device. Brightness is controlled by limiting the current. By regulating resistance on the ground side, I am able to dim multiple LEDs with just one switch/resistor setup.
    #8
  9. Bowser

    Bowser Been here awhile

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    Or if you like me, a dab of semi transparent nail varnish, works a treat ;-)
    #9
  10. Hondo

    Hondo What if it's a Samsquamch?

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    Reinforce all LED's with hot glue that tapers down the wire. That will keep them from failing/breaking.

    I did that on my KLX450R & HDB clamp LEDs-

    [​IMG]
    #10
  11. Hondo

    Hondo What if it's a Samsquamch?

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    And after scuffing up the LEDs with some sandpaper, I dipped them in a bit a satin black paint to tone them down some-

    [​IMG]
    #11
  12. bikyto

    bikyto Dans le doute...gaz!

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    A couple layers of a black marker works too.
    +1 on the hot glue. I did the same. Pretty secure now.
    #12
  13. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    I just press the LEDs in the holes. No problem with them falling out. Ganging the LED circuit doesn't work in my application (well I could do that for the two on the left -- good idea HellSickle). Voltmeter has its own LED and auto dimming. The ABS circuit can't reliably tolerate dimming resistance. I need a DPST switch in the same size. Paul, do know if they are available?
    #13
  14. HellSickle

    HellSickle Scone Rider

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    You want an ABS indicator light? I just used one of Paul's switches to interrupt the rear ABS line. In my dash picture above, the ABS switch is installed next to the flasher switch & power outlet. When open, the factory dash light indicates the ABS has faulted. Granted, a toggle would give a visual indication when the bike is off or before you start. If I start going and find it's disabled, I just hit the switch and key cycle the engine without stopping.
    #14
  15. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    I tried the LED in series but ABS would not reliably engage when on. The older dash has an ABS indicator, but it is not that useful since it always starts out indicating an ABS fault. I have mine wired the way you suggest (note no LED above the right most switch). A DPST switch would allow wiring an indicator LED to show whether the switch is on or off (ABS default on or off). The way it is now (to use KTM's indicator) you have to put the bike in motion to know which way the switch is set. (re-reading before reply, we're saying the same thing :D) I hadn't tried cycling the switch without stopping. Good to know that works.
    #15
  16. x1valin1x

    x1valin1x tommy

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    Hey everyone. Looking for a little help here. I have the led lights and the HDB set up for my ktm 990. I was trying to wire up the bike tonight and found out wiring is not something I'm good at. Anyways, I would like the led light to light up whenever I have an accessory turned on.

    Tonight while wiring up some aux lights I found out when ever the button was pushed in and the led indicator light was on the power would be lost to that accessory. So in turn its doing the opposite of what I want it to do.

    I want the led light to turn on when there is power going to that accessory. That way I'll be able to tell which accessories have power.

    So here is what I have for wiring. I have a eastern beaver fuse box that I'm wiring all the accessories to. Any help would be great. Just trying to figure out how to get the led light to light up at the correct time. I don't want them to light up when the button on the HDB top clamp is pushed and power is lost. Please help.
    #16
  17. sakurama

    sakurama on an endless build

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    Bump for a simple wiring diagram to get us started. I tried helping Tommy but it's the blind leading the blind. Electric is something I've always struggled with.

    Gregor
    #17
  18. Doug Matson

    Doug Matson Long timer

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    Great timing just getting ready to order HDB set up for my 450 EXC and will be doing this on the 1190 also.
    #18
  19. x1valin1x

    x1valin1x tommy

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    Found a few diagrams on here but looking for some more advice/help:ear
    #19