Need some help reguarding structural damage.

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by EnderTheX, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. EnderTheX

    EnderTheX Dirt Rider

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    Hey yall, well... I have some tough decisions to make. I wanted to consult you all on the feasibility of repairing my bike before I pull the trigger on how to proceed with my insurance.


    Question series 1:

    My rear sub-frame is pushed to the side, I'm guessing this was from impact with my soft luggage. The rear-most part of the mud-guard, at the license plate, is about 1 inch off center from the center-line of the tire. I had ridden with the bike a good distance without noticing this, I only realized this condition after my dealer alerted me to the damage when I brought the bike in for a wreck estimate.

    Is this a concern, can I leave it be? Can I force the sub-frame back into place? Should I replace the sub-frame?



    Question series 2:

    Impact to the front of the bike left plastic parts destroyed or tweaked... My dealer casually says he doesn't think there is damage to the forks, they actuate fine and don't leak. My triple clamp is scratched (from another drop than the frontal impact) but this really seems to be cosmetic.

    Is there a way for me to assess if the forks are damaged? Should I replace the triple clamp? Should I be seriously worried about damage we can't detect?


    Sorry I don't have pictures specific to these questions, I can try my best to provide more info if you need it to help me find some answers.

    My basic goal with this thread is to determine if my bike is repairable or if I have to abandon it. My gut instinct is that it is fine and there is no major damage but I have enough experience to know invisible damage could surface as catastrophic failures in future rides.

    :sick
    #1
  2. WoodWorks

    WoodWorks House Ape

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    I'm no structural engineer (though I play one on Internet forums :D ), but given the forces necessary to tweak your subframe and crush your front end, I'd be real leery of hidden damage. Yeah, you may be fine. But why take that chance? And if your insurance company is willing to total the bike, I say walk away and get yourself a brand new 2011. As someone else here suggested, get the bike back via auction and part it out on the flea market.

    That's what I'd do, anyway.

    David
    #2
  3. Lost Roadie

    Lost Roadie Rider

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    Mines bent too. about the same amount. 1" off center on the subframe. my jesse mounts don't line up at all but I improvised a solution. :evil


    I say just ride the fukin' bike and don't worry about it.
    Do you really want to deal with getting a new bike and setting it up because of something that "might" be wrong?... I don't believe the forces necessary to bent the small steel tubing that extends for almost two feet with no support suggests there's anything wrong with anything else on the bike.
    Crushing the plastic on the front end take very little force....
    Shoot, one of my passenger footpegs was bent way out... a couple of solid swings from a large sledgehammer and it was back in place. ( I really should video tape some of my fixes to make some of you weak at heart faint) :lol3
    I believe that the thin metal tubing is meant to give and bend instead being rigid and more fragile. OR to protect the engine from being damaged when only the subframe takes a hit.

    What other damage is there to worry enough if the front end is OK, and the sub frame is just a little tweaked? The engine is the main support for the bike. Hell, my actual frame coming off the engine is bent and dented.
    I could easily turn it it to be totaled. :deal But I did it while on the Tour of Idaho and I'll live with it.


    And not to get into the social discussion, but I feel that the only way I'll ever turn in damage from pushing the limits off road on my GS to my to insurance is if it's totaled. I don't think insurance is meant for any of us to turn in because of cosmetic damage after we crash in the dirt. just sayin'. :deal
    #3
  4. SlowRide13

    SlowRide13 Veteran n00b

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    C'mon- it's a dirt bike! ride her till she pukes blood :lobbyScrew the insurance Man every chance you get!!!


    I wouldn't buy a used bike from you or Chi.... But if you totaled it out, got a new one and rode it.... say.... 200 miles, I would probably buy it in a heartbeat- well if it was really cheap. Something to consider.
    pete
    #4
  5. EnderTheX

    EnderTheX Dirt Rider

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    True Chitown, some good words to keep me going. I believe one option may be keeping the bike, receiving a good amount for repairs and then repairing what I need to under a salvage title. I will never be able to sell the bike but I may be able to pay it off and repair the front end.

    You are most likely right that the sub-frame is weak for a reason, to help keep damage from the vital parts of the bike.

    Unfortunately the cost of what I absolutely need to repair far exceeded my deductible so I had to get insurance involved.. They have so much of my money over the years they are still making out like fat pigs.
    #5
  6. EnderTheX

    EnderTheX Dirt Rider

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    True, the value of the bike could drop way below what I owe on it if I don't play my cards right, something to consider. If I can put some of the money for fixing it or buy it off auction I may make out OK (since I don't intent to ever sell it).

    I just have to figure out if the possible hidden damage is worth the trouble, leaning towards "most probably" at the moment, the next week will tell...
    #6
  7. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    1. Subframe will very likely be fine even if tweaked. Inspect it for any cracks in high stress areas and if you find some those can be welded easily. If it really bothers you I'll ship you a like new one for half of what BMW wants.

    2. The easiest way to check the forks is to mount them horizontally by the axle clamps in a vise and then measure at the other end for out-of-round with a dial indicator while you spin the upper tube. If you don't have those tools remove the springs and check if the sliders are going up and down easily or binding. Once you loosen all the bolts in the triples, are the stanchions easy or hard to slide in and out?
    #7
  8. EnderTheX

    EnderTheX Dirt Rider

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    Very wise advice :bow Depending on the activities of next week I may PM you about the sub-frame, doesn't look like a difficult replacement.

    I would be outside right now checking the forks in the manner you describe but my bike is still a hostage. Maybe I can get the dealer to look at it more closely or let me have it back for a night...
    #8
  9. Lost Roadie

    Lost Roadie Rider

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    That's the most appropriate use a smiley in a long time! Yeah, screw the faceless evil companies... what was I thinking!




    NOBODY would buy my bike, at least until I'm famous and dead. :dllama



    Good luck Ender... I doubt you've learned your lesson and will stop actually "riding" the GS... so why trash a new one? ;)
    #9
  10. EnderTheX

    EnderTheX Dirt Rider

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    Thanks! There is no way I change my riding style to use this bike "as intended". Gotta keep pushing the limits to satisfy my lust for adventure!

    I talked with my insurance today and it looks better for me keeping the bike, although the price they are asking for the salvage is a little high, oh well. :lol3
    #10
  11. huckleberry

    huckleberry BACK ROAD BOMBER

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    i'd check the forks carefully as i bent the upper tubes on my 658 (right side up forks) fairly easily, the tube did not seem to be hardened at all. Tried to straighten them in a press and the tube started to collapse the same time the bend started to come out. Cheap chinese junk! Sub frame i wouldn't worry so much about i'd try to straighten it and carefully check all welds for cracks, reweld as necessary.
    #11
  12. EnderTheX

    EnderTheX Dirt Rider

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    Roger that, I will try Lucas' checking technique on the forks... if they are bent I may just spring for a high performance set :D... I wonder if my hyperpro progressive springs will work with other cartridges?

    I guess "straitening" the sub-frame is best done with some tiedowns, a few friends and some "1-2-3 push!". Then check for weld continuity. :evil
    #12
  13. Tor

    Tor Imported Norwegian Viking

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    [​IMG]

    $950......no big deal.......get a new one.......:lurk
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  14. vagabondtx

    vagabondtx Adventurer

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    A nice 6' steel pipe goes a long way towards convincing subframes which way they really want to sit.... :deal
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  15. buick driver

    buick driver Adventurer

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    +1, worked pretty good on my old /5. 2 people hold the bike and 1 adjust.
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  16. Lost Roadie

    Lost Roadie Rider

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    A ratchet strap can be non-violently persuasive too.
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  17. EnderTheX

    EnderTheX Dirt Rider

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    Good news everyone! With the insurance money I have just paid off my bike and purchased it back from salvage (not cheap :cry). I am left with no monies for repairs so I am going at it alone. :eek1

    This will surely be an adventure! :evil
    #17