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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by tahoeacr, Feb 3, 2012.
CPR filter assembly: 1lb 3.3oz
OEM airbox assm w/filter-snorkle: 4lb 7.2oz
Thats a decent savings, more than I thought.
Just got back from dyno run on SE number 2. Butt dyno was perfect, paper said AFR was right where Ken wanted. More open exhaust with fairly different settings and we seemed to end up close at the end. MX1000 will be a great side by side.
Sometimes mate it seems like we are arguing, but we are not. We are brainstorming. Chucking thoughts around, personal experiences and so on. The idea is to reach a successful conclusion. If this works OK it will end up a decision on whats important. Ease of maintenance, or river crossings. The existing prefilter design has one big problem it is to small. requires constant cleaning. Perhaps that is a project for the future.
We need CJ to spin up a alloy mount for this...... Warning you will loose you glovebox. No where to but those pesky gloves at your next black tie invite :huh
You and I have the same background........ mine was with Haltech programmable management systems. I have 3 of them running
Bloody things have proved so reliable I'm having trouble finding a lap top with a serial connector that will boot up in Dos ........... GREAT FUN !!!!!
She's runing 15psi
I use it for traveling/blasting around the country towing bikes. We live in it
A big thanks to Ken for keeping us updated. I can see how busy you are. I'm so busy I don't have time to read let alone post
This is the 4th time I have had this GBox out. Bloody thing I want to get back to working on the bike...........
I might have you beat....... Audi V6 in my Vanagon
It would lay a patch of rubber forever
For those who are doing a 950 install...
Well the local shop did not have richer main jets that I want to start off trying, so my CPR install is at a bit of a standstill. I have to say though that it is a beautiful piece. The only initial nitpick I would even mention is that since the filter has to be oiled, a lighter color foam would be nice. It is hard to see how the oil disperses in the foam when the foam is black. I thought maybe that the internal frame of the filter would make it hard to oil the filter, but no worries there. I used No Toil filter oil, which is what is recommended by the mfg.
The filter plate, which looks to be some sort of carbon composite, has a recessed fitting for the crankcase breather valve. To get to the valve, you have to separate the stock hose at the clamps and remove the valve. It then fits in the bottom of the filter plate and you attach the crankcase breather hose to it. The stock breather hose needs to be trimmed from the bottom about 3 inches or so so everything fits right.
Once I figured the crankcase deal out, it was an easy install. Everything is precisely made and the quality of the kit is absolutely first rate. Now I am just waiting on my main jets. I guessed 165/170 to start, but CJ thinks that might not be enough, but safe enough to start testing. I ride at 3-4K elevation. I'll report back next week.
Glad you posted. I'm hoping to install mine this weekend.
Did you do anything with the needle or other jets?
I returned to stock 155/160 for this from the 145/150 H2W setup.
I'm using FAB-1 oil. It is a little thicker oil than the others.
This should prove quite interesting.
Yes. I moved the needle from the stock setting (which always worked best for me) to the next richer #3 position. I left the thin washer under the clip as well. On the air screws I figure I will start around two turns out. I am going to leave the stock pilot jet for now.
When the pre filter cover comes out, which will be soon, I will be running that most of the time because we routinely ride in about the dustiest conditions that you can imagine. So that, along with my slightly higher elevation, may mean that I don't have to run as rich as others with this filter set up. We shall see. If my shop would of had the jets I wanted I would be out testing right now. Oh well, maybe next weekend.
FYI, re:main jet sizes..... think big, then add 2, just sayin.....
Well feel free to be more specific, but in the meantime I will get there through trial and error.
I'm guessing 178 or 180 even... at sea level and slightly above will run great in this setup though the big issue always with these carbs is getting the bottom end to behave. Might have to drop to a 40 slow?
*Someone send me one of these air filters and I'll dyno/afr tune it to perfection*
I got mine on last night. Stock jetting. I can feel how crisp it is now. Used the mixture screws to take it down some. Sitting about 2.5 turns where I was 1.75. Surely will need bigger mains for this area.
4/22/12 Shield Update I found out rather quickly that the shield had problems. I updated my build thread adding photos and condensing it a bit. The original post is here http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18404838&postcount=104
Updated details on the shield I made to go under the Rottweiler foam filter. The goal is to separate the air intakes from the heat created by the motor and water splashing up around the motor. Fortunately there is a frame member roughly parallel to the plane of the Rottweiler base plate. The fuel tanks surround this frame member on the outside. My idea is to make a metal shield that goes from the frame member under the baseplate and up the other side to the opposite frame member. The shield is long starting at the rats nest of wiring behind the head tube and going all the way back to frame cross member near the sub frame junction. The shield is held in place by the spring force of the rolled edges and some new brackets described below.
Here is the area you get to work with.
Note: rags removed from intakes for photos.
Note: I have Secondary butterflies and linkages intact
Note: Rottweiler gasket rings installed on throttle body towers.
In the original post I described the template and the version one prototype. I cutout the areas under the baseplate for everything I thought was in the way. Unfortunately I did not realize the secondary butterfly linkage would contact the shield and cause an FI fault.
Version two of the prototype cuts most of the shield away under the Rottweiler baseplate. The shield overlaps the base plate by about half an inch; just enough to mount some weather striping.
Version two shield
Secondary butterfly linkage clearance
A suggestion from Qwik to use insulated cable brackets around the frame to hold the shield. Replaces the masking tape.
Two brackets towards the back, showing right side, these give the shield some support so that the shield to baseplate weather striping has a good seal.
One bracket towards the front
Note: the heat shield up front disguises the poor shape of the metal work.
I had planed on bringing the shielding up the sides so I added this to version two. The side shields have heat shield on the back.
Rottweiler baseplate mounted
Note: I moved the CPR labels to the inside of the filter.
The seal between the shield and base plate
Filter in place, area behind filter. Notice gaps between the frame and shield.
I used left over heat shield to make flaps to fill the gap.
Part of version one was raising the glove box base to create a gap to allow more airflow. I used spacers I had lying around to raise the front of the base. These spacers fell into the engine area more than once. I made a spacer out of plastic and glued it to the glove box base.
Bikyto helped me load a map and fix my tps and tbs
The shield is working well and I have put over 200 miles on it.
Is it me or is this starting to look like the airbox you just removed? :huh
+1 on the good work!
I have given a little thought about water splashing up onto the filter, but I am not worried about heat. I am going to ride mine as is and if this becomes an issue, I'll figure something out. Everything just looks so clean and simple with just the carbs and the filter sitting on top--if it works like this then that is how I want to leave it.
Here in the desert SW I don't think a heat shield is gonna do much for me. With ambient temps in the 110's airflow is the only thing that helps.
Need to figure out a ram air scoop from under headlight.
There is a natural air ram flowing through and above the radiator.
The shield splits this flow, hot below, ambient above.
The flow above the radiator can be improved by modifying the plastic frame inserts at the steer tube. There is a rats nest of wires there so I'm still thinking about it. The 1/4 gap along the front and sides of the glove box adds about 5+ square inches of intake area. At speed the front ram air is probably enough TBD. At slow speed the glove box gap should allow adequet intake TBD.