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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Rapid Dog, Mar 17, 2011.
Got mine in the box. Are they preset or should I have to fiddle about with the tangs?
Dont think they are pre-set, but they are always in the neighborhood. Its actually easy to check on these- just make sure that seam in the float is level with the carb body just as the the tang begins to engage the needle valve.
Cripes on the Yam XT you ned to make a separate clear tube and make sure the bike is level and then figure out 6mm below the carb seam... Makes the BMW seem no-nonsense.
They are not preset.
They should turn the gas on and off just as the tang is level with the carb body.
...so I've heard, so I'll ask...do bothe sides need to be the same for some technical reason.
Right now my right side needed to be lower than the left for the carb to not over flow. In otherwais e I had to bend the tang open farther.
That might be a float needle or needle seat issue. Both floats should be providing the same amount of gas in the bowl is whats ultimately important, and usually that means both are the same same. If one side is weird, then the floats are inconsistent, or the float valves are.
Or the overflow pipe is.
...hmmm...you mean I could have a mis-matched pair of float bowls?
I've replace nearly everything in these Bings, float needles and float hinge pins as well.
Don't forget the bowl gasket and the float needle seat. Sometimes that is the culprit. CV Bings don't leak. At least not when they are right. Your float level should be the same in both carbs just as the manuals suggest. If your carbs are leaking, it isn't the level. It's something else.
They always weep a little bit around the gasket, but certainly shouldn't "overflow" unless the float needle isn't shutting off fuel flow.
Easiest way by far to check this is to remove the bowl with the carbs mounted on the bike, and turn on the gas. Set the tang for the fuel to shut off when the float seam is parallel to the carb body, as mentioned previously. You'll be able to see right away if it shuts off or not.
Let some fuel run through for a few seconds to "flush out" the needle seat.
But the float needle setas aren't replaceable are they? I don't see it on the fiche...
I'm pretty sure you're right about that. Though I've never done it, I've heard that you can recondition the seat using a bit of dowel and some grinding paste.
They are available from Bing USA.
Floats are not pre set however they are normally pretty darn close. The top of the float should be parallel with the bottom of the carburetor. that is a great starting point.
Replace your float needles as well. Hone the float needle seat with a small piece of Scotch Brite wrapped around a screwdriver and a little squirt of WD40. Make sure to clean it with carburetor cleaner and a little air when you are finished.
I'll give this a try...
Now is that the way to act towards good help? Remember that eventually you will have to get it fixed yourself!
If the seat is leaking with a new needle. Why not try dressing it and good luck because you will need it. If the seat is working, I would leave well enough alone. Those seats are SUPER sensitive to nicks smaller than a frog's hair.