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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.
now i just need to figger it out
screw it im just going to put 12 vdc to the coil
Well, that's why I'm wondering if my regulator is not acting the way it should. If I let the fuel pump prime, then screw with my gloves or something for a few second, fuel pressure in the line is down to 20 psi or less. Might make that first squirt weaker than desired if the ECU is expecting 55 psi.
Fuel regulators can certainely fail and usually fail in the form of dumping too much pressure.
Maybe your right Aaron, the 690 with a carb could be my perfect beast
anybody remember who did the carb conversion?
Can't be that difficult, just need to adapt a FCR39 to the throat of the head and then clamp a pod filter to the other end. You'll need a vacuum pump of course, but they're well known for reliability.
Or your injector is leaking...
Nope, not leaking at the injector. If it's leaking anywhere at all, it would have to be at one of the fittings inside the tank, but I strongly doubt that's what's happening. I'm nearly certain that the regulator bleeds off the pressure when the pump's not running. I can't find anyone to confirm or deny if that's the expected behavior or not.
In a car you have a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel check valve. The pressure regulator should limit the max pressure while the bike is running and should not bleed off pressure when it is not running. The check valve on the car is there to prevent fuel from running back to the tank which reduces the cranking time the next time you start the car. I do not know if the 690 has a check valve.
got the adapter part figgured. i got a lathe
i used the pod filter in the past and the area on the 690 it sits in is VERY dirty. I mean every day the filter is clogged out here in the dust even if you are in front. i would rather try and route it back into the stock box or if not at least to the very front of the compartment where you are talking of putting the small battery
vacum pump very relliable
i think i need a different ignation probably from an exc
why the fcr 39 and not the 41
i could probably loose 3/4 of the wire loom too
that could be the ticket
http://188.8.131.52/munnracing/cat...onentid=34244&model=690 RALLY FACTORY REPLICA
http://184.108.40.206/munnracing/cat...onentid=34232&model=690 RALLY FACTORY REPLICA
Warm up that credit card Bob.
Don't give up on that moody bike yet....we don't want to lose you from this thread .
Ken Darvin is a local guy that used to have a bike shop and did some 950 carb conversions....don't know if he has some insight....Lord knows, he has his opinions
Ken Darvin at Alternate Cycle (not a shop anymore ) http://www.alternatecycle.com
Tell him Ged gave you the #....he won't know who " Kitty Milker" is
I bet Vortex could do an ignition only box for you without too much trouble. I'm wondering if the EXC CDI map would work with the 690 motor, trying to think of why of why it wouldn't work.... I got nothing
Rally replica uses a different stator and pulser from ralley replica and super mmoto and the coil is from most of the exc's up to 05
funny the replica dont list a cdi box.....must be made of unobtinium
41fcr for the carb
thought there was a cdi box listed in the fiche for the rr...might be the same as the 450rr
I need to replace my rear brake rotor NOW! Before I plunk down my hard earned $$$, can anyone verify that the stock 950SE floating rear rotor is a direct bolt on? I know Galfer makes a rear floating wave rotor, but $130 for a non-wave floating rotor sounds like a better value to me than $250 for the wave. I currently have a 690RR rotor (bent) and the 950SE rotor looks the same but is a floater. If I had just bought the Scott's sharkfin a long time ago I wouldn't be having this dilemma now
On a related topic, does anyone have a preffered set of rear brake pads (along with a part number?) I was just going to buy another set of OEM pads unless there is something that is noticeably better out there.
the Vortex test bed was a 690rr I guarantee richard can to it
The stator and pulse coil are the same between the rallye rep and the enduro.
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690 RALLY FACTORY REPLICA
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Ive mentioned this brand and company the last time i had dealings with them but they havnt let me down again - bought a guard it tech rear rack from adventure spec from the UK here in three days thats twice ive bought from them and twice delivered to australia in three days and the guard it products are the ducks,Three days delivered from the uk to australia unbelievable im stoked
dooooh! i should have looked under the battery tab. The part numbers for the pulser and stator are different for the rally rep but you say the enduro r will work with the cdi?
i am really tired of trying to make this bike work right... it seems every time i get one weakness fixed another pops up.
does anybody know if the workshop manual has voltage and resistance measurements that can help me trouble shoot the loss of 12 v at the coil? i dont mind paying for the book but want to be sure it has that kind of info first
Ok guys, you're freaking me out here. I'm building up my 690 for travel and don't want to be left on the side of the road. Is it your opinion that if I only replace the fuel pump (or carry a spare), and leave the rest of the bike stock (i.e. no Vortex, no foam air filter, etc) that I stand the best chance of getting a reliable bike?
I just can't believe all the stories here, and yet Sherri has ridden her bike round the world with almost no hiccups (until recently, apparently some mechanic inflicted motor trouble). It does not seem that she's had any trouble with the fuel injection or electronics.