New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. snakepilot

    snakepilot Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    65
    Location:
    Lake Murray, SC
    Thanks to all for the replies.

    Nippybit, I will probably try that next, or just vent to atmosphere. I had that same setup on my previous bike on a Clark 4.2 gallon tank.

    Bartron's "code Orange" thread describes the method I followed for the partial "canirestomy"and so I figured others have done the same. He recommends what you did, OR the in-line valve as I did. Either method accomplishes the same as the valve is supposed to perform the same function, whether is mounted to the gas cap or in-line.
    BTW, the expansion has been due to just normal summer riding as I have not parked the bike in the sun for any extended periods. A friend who is a pretty good mechanic and does all the work on his own bikes ( but does not have a KTM) thinks that the amount of pressure that builds up is not sufficient to have a detrimental effect. So far, the bike runs great, but my concern is long term.
  2. Velociraptor

    Velociraptor TrackBum

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,145
    Location:
    Seattle
  3. Hooked

    Hooked n00b

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    8
    I have been noticing my 08 (20,000 Kms) getting harder to start when I first fire it up after sitting over night or all day. Spark plug has about 6000kms,
    valves have been done recently and that was no help,
    tried different brands of fuel no different
    even replaced the battery with a Shorai but it still starts hard! Any one able to shed some advice on a fix?
    It usually starts very easy.
  4. Heptad

    Heptad Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    102
    Location:
    GA foothills
    I need help with installing led turn signals. Anyone install these? Says to cut the purple and black wires coming from indicator light. It is part of the wire harness. Should I do this?
  5. Roadracer_Al

    Roadracer_Al louder, louder, louder!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,726
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    On the back, the turn signals have *very* long leads. They actually connect into the wiring harness up near the battery. The fronts are a bit more typical. Yes, cut the leads off and solder them to the new signals. I recommend staggering the splices so they can still fit through the mounting holes.
  6. Aanarchy

    Aanarchy Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,160
    Location:
    Limbo
    I don't know what kind of LEDs you have, but I installed the sicass racing flush mount rear signals and sicass front signals and there was no cutting or splicing on either. It's "plug & play". A plastic quick connect plug joins wires from the signals to the harness both front and rear.

    The instructions talked about cutting and splicing and all that shit, but it wasn't necessary. Front signals required buying the sicass relay to replace the stock one to make them flash properly. I'm a mechanical dweeb and an electrical retard and I figured it out.
  7. nippybit

    nippybit Nippybit

    Joined:
    May 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    Henderson, Nevada
    Before tearing into the fuel tank for fuel filter replacement or other more complicated diagnostics and fixes try some fuel injection cleaner. Sounds simple and it may work. Another suggestion that has worked for some here is to check the tightness of the battery connections. I will let others here do the heavy lifting if neither of these suggestions help given what you have already tried.

    Hope this helps.:wave
  8. Head2Wind

    Head2Wind MotorcycleMayhem

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,625
    Location:
    NorthWet Washington

    I have a set of these on my 690 and strap my GL and other things to them frequently. ~$80

    [​IMG]
  9. Head2Wind

    Head2Wind MotorcycleMayhem

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,625
    Location:
    NorthWet Washington
    the plugs are available on Digikey pretty inexpensively..... I will have to dig for the PN or URL reference. otherwise clip and splice from the OEM signals
  10. 777

    777 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    98
    Location:
    Durban South Africa
    I am watching this one, I have some storey with 10 000km on my 08, done servce, osne valves, cgecked TPS, and mapping ,checked auto decompress lever etc, running out of option, new plug , checked the gap.
  11. wino975

    wino975 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    49
    Location:
    In the Alps
    check also the coil and the spark plug cable :norton
  12. MookieBlaylock

    MookieBlaylock Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2004
    Oddometer:
    2,581
    Location:
    IntheeaglewingpalaceoftheQueenChinee
    my back signals were destroyed so i thought i could replace with the sicass leds but they dont blink right until i get the relay. Do i have to get new front leds also to make it work right? if so they will be $14 ebay specials
  13. empedrado

    empedrado Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2004
    Oddometer:
    377
    Location:
    Central NM

    I have struggled with erratic idling, stalling and hesitation at lights. The bike runs great otherwise. Yesterday I built a little tool to clean the injector as I have exhausted everything else. Going to clean the injector today for a ride I am going on the next day. Got my fingers crossed.
  14. 777

    777 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    98
    Location:
    Durban South Africa
    Keep us posted
  15. Aanarchy

    Aanarchy Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,160
    Location:
    Limbo
    My rear signals worked fine wiithout the relay. Then I added the front signals nothing would flash until I plugged in the relay. Then all was fine.

    There were two relay options from sicass - $$ and $. I got the $ and it worked. Don't remember exact price, but it was minimal.
  16. Aanarchy

    Aanarchy Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,160
    Location:
    Limbo
    This may be a simpleton question in a thread with so many advanced topics but I need to ask -

    Stock gearing was 15 x 45. All the threads I could find on gearing said 15 x 48 was the trick. I'm running a 14 x 45 and thinking about going to a 48 on the rear with the 14 front. Any comments? Anyone have this combo?
  17. RickA

    RickA Fat Old Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    87
    Location:
    Preston, England
    Hi all,

    Stock gearing of 15-45 gives you a 1:3.00 ratio, 14-45 gives you 1:3.21 and 14:48 gives you 1:3.43 - a lot lower ratio.

    Do you need to go down that far? You are also adding 3 links therefore a new chain.

    I run 14-45 and find it a good all-round compromise with std chain length being an additional bonus.

    Hope that helps!

    Cheers, Rick.
  18. nippybit

    nippybit Nippybit

    Joined:
    May 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    Henderson, Nevada
    A number of us have posted on this before but many of our old posts have been lost with the demise of the old 690 Megathread. I believe some here can provide you a link to a site, perhaps called gearing commander or something like that, which explains the increase or decrease in rpm at various speeds given the variables of increases or decreases in countershaft tooth size and rear sprocket size.

    You are correct about what is stock, i.e., 15/45. I have 14/45 which is the equivalent of 15/48. As I remember it, 1 tooth down or up on the countershaft sprocket is the equivalent of going 3 teeth up or down on the rear sprocket. Countershaft sprockets are easier to change out than rear sprockets and cheaper as well which may influence your decision.

    Since you already have 14/45, or the equivalent of 15/48, you know how the bike deals with slab and off-road speeds/conditions. I believe that if you go to 14/48 you will be screaming the motor at normal highway speeds and will seldom use first gear off-road given the torque of the 690. I have experimented with both on my previous KTM Enduro and believe that 14/45 or 15/48 represents the best compromise for the bike.

    Worthy of note on this subject is chain tension. If you tighten your chain more than KTM recommends you can hasten the demise of the countershaft sprocket oil seal which can be a pain in the ass to fix, as some here have reported. Fortunately I have never had this problem.

    Hope this helps.
  19. Aanarchy

    Aanarchy Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,160
    Location:
    Limbo
    Additional data, so yes it helps. Do I need it? Not sure, but I'm sure it would help getting up some of the gnarlier hills, and make it easier to loft the front wheel over ledges. It's a heavy bike.

    Surprised that it would take three extra links. Stock chain is a 114 link, same as stock on my 2008 450EXC-R, which came with same stock gearing. I have 14 x 48 on the 450 with a 116 link chain. I'm moving to a 50T rear on that bike, and I think the 116 will still work, based on Hodakaguy's posts about his 530.

    But you're right about the 14 x 45 being a good compromise. A little higher revving on the highway but not too much, and decent in the dirt. New sprocket = $78 and a chain $150+/-. Not insignificant.
  20. nippybit

    nippybit Nippybit

    Joined:
    May 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    Henderson, Nevada
    Rick, while I was composing my post with a sore right hand, read really slow typing, you got yours out. It seems as though we agree on this. Great minds think alike or something like that.

    Cheers, :clap

    Tom