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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.
Yes, do tell about the head. My buddy has a flow bench. Might have to put him to work this winter.
Gros Buck - Assembler!? I read the manual, once .
Went out for some late afternoon urban dirt yesterday, ended in bed. Started ride with 15 minute idle reset. Thirty mins of city travel had a number of stalls. Got to dirt and stalling / rough running increased to point where I headed back to road after just 15 mins.
Cut the bike off while waiting on a train and wouldn't restart. Let it sit for a bit and try again, nada. Finally got a sign of life but turned into a back fire which separated the throttle body from the motor. I'm not in one of the better parts of town so opt for phone and charge card evac before sun goes down and drug lords come to check on their labs.
Back at the house, refix tb, starts right up. pos.
I know a guy with a nice XR600R he'd probably sell you. I think you already have his number
Got my head back from the guy that cut the valve seats. He thinks that the seats were originally cut wrong on the right side from the factory. The left side exhaust was still at 2 mm which is new spec, while the right side exhaust was 1.1 The right side intake had no seat at all and the left side was at .9 mm. Anyway, all 4 are at 2 mm now so should be good for another 27K miles at least.
He also confirmed the valve guides were good. Now I just have to get around to putting it all back together.
Thanks, a google search could not help me. Appreciate it.
If you are not going to do ride in deep ruts or between big rocks the Fastway Adventure pegs are fantastic for giving stable and comfortable footing all the time, even better than the KTM Rally Replica pegs.
For enduro type riding both are a bit too wide IMO.
I like my Pivot Pegz. you can configure them to lower 10mm, and move rearward 5mm. They cost about the same as the KTM Hardparts pegs, that give the same amount of relocation. I have not put hands on the hardparts pegs, but I think the PPegz mounting system is better. IMO.
If you need even more legroom Motobau makes "Bear traps" which are 3 cm lower than the originals:
No doubt. .
Starts with choke, idles with choke, bogs and dies with throttle. We are going for carb rebuild this afternoon. At least no Austrian code monkeys in play. Cooler will be open, game on small screen - wanna swing by
I'm changing my stock tires out.
Should I be able to remove the spacer in the rear sprocket?
When I spin the spacer, it feel kind of grimey. I want to take it out and re-grease it, of course.
I can't remove the dang thing. I dont want to pry it out because the sorounding metal "nilos ring " is very soft.
On other bikes I have I can, so I was wondering....but in the 690 owners manual, it doesnt mention removing and inspecting that particular spacer.
Maybe it was overtorqued in the factory? Should I go to my crappy dealer? Doubtful there is any real problem.....besides being anal retentive...just wondering.
I wanted to do the same but no luck. Sounds and feels like there's sand in there and I want it out!
Guess the only way is a new one...
This seems like something that can happen over and over again, even if you replace the bearing,nilos ring and spacer....
Here's the link to the microfiche
I think the bearing is ok because of the nilos ring?
Oh another question...are the stock tubes for the bike HD?
I swapped them out for HD tubes I bought, but I really couldn't tell the diff.
Yeah, I'm dumb.
Either way, the stock tubes seem pretty decent (Pirelli).
Stock tubes aren't HD unless there was some kind of change in their spec.
There is a big difference between the stock tube and HD. Very apparent in comparison. But if you didn't notice...
It's worst then you think ... Each and every CPU has his own assembler. Piles of manual to read. One of many good reasons why assembler disapeared except for very low level routines.
Nice motor support ... Well done. Do you rebuild those motors that often ????
Is your bike still under warranty
Sorry for the delayed response as I was riding in the Lincoln National forest (NM) last week. I had one of the early threads about the 690 fuel pump issues. My my fuel pump problem seems to have been solved by installing a CA Cycleworks pump. My fuel pump stoppages occurred at all temperatures and altitudes and were very intermittent, sometimes running perfectly for more than 500 miles. It never left me stranded and would always eventually start running again. The first time it happened, I nearly ran down the battery trying to restart. I later learned that it would not start until the fuel pump prime sequence occurs (which you can hear when you turn the key on). Just wait till you hear the prime, then it would start. The pressure regulator is a passive pressure relief valve which is not connected to the ECU. It returns excess fuel to the plastic pump housing for cooling purposes. There is (from the 690 wiring diagrams) one connection of fuel pump power to the ECU to switch/prime the fuel pump. I do not believe there is any other relationship between the ECU and fuel pump other than turning it off/on/prime. The TuneECU folks tell us the ECU must be reset before the 15 minute idle and throttle calibration are meaningful. There is a TuneECU switch for this as well as an automatic reset when loading a new map. Disconnecting the battery may also do a reset. The ECU (from the 690 wiring diagrams) have connections to the following devices:
Front wheel speed sensor
Throttle position sensor
Intake air temp sensor
side stand sensor
Accelerator position sensor
Ambient air pressure sensor
Engine coolant temp sensor
fuel level indicator
crank position sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor
map select switch
I have not yet disassembled my OEM fuel pump but I'm guessing it will look ok like yours did. It is possible that the ECU is turning the pump off because of some software glitch (I know something about computer science, being a retired CS prof) but, if so, it doesn't seem to happen anymore to the bikes which are running the CA Cycleworks pump. So the mystery continues, but I'm happy my bike runs like gangbusters. I actually trust it again (which is easier for me to do because mine never left me -- just slowed me down)
Spacer should be able to be removed, but mine, on the old bike, was stuck last time I tried too. I have that same indent from the screwdriver in my soft ring too now.
nice job, eagle eyes! hahaha!
i was pissed when i did that. it didn't take much, did it? i was like "wtf!!??"
you live and learn,and there's no serious damage.
it just took me by surprise and i've never seen a nilos ring before on any other bike i've had.
it must be a ktm thing.
i had to google what it was.
The same problem is with blackSP's bike, and that's an 2012.
So you were once able to remove the spacer?
The carb rebuild I had planned for the afternoon was dragging a deer out of the woods this morning so I ended up with options. Since the bike started right up last night, thought I'd see what would happen today.
I've got an hour long town loop that does what it can. No dirt but would at least let me run it a bit. Like a champ, it was. I thought certain Santa shimmied down the exhaust and gave me a firmware upgrade last night while I was sleeping it off.
Fifteen minute idle reset, again. Ride was cooler today, temps were similar (high seventies) but overcast and less stop go. Stalled for first time at end of ride, fan was running as I waited at a couple of lights. Let it sit back in the shed - 5 mins for 'train time' Did start but rough, wouldn't hold idle, needed gas.
So - temps seem to matter - out of the blue, maybe.
Given y'all's posts, my attack order is: Injector clean. Battery - maybe low volts? - oem @ 4 years. CA fuel pump. ECU.
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I hate to bring this up...but.
Which lightweight battery is working out the best now and where to buy them?
I am going crazy reading about Shorai and Shorai problems.
I need one, pronto.