New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. The Letter J

    The Letter J lost in the 690 mega

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,086
    Location:
    Santa Maria, CA
    Yes the HP4 is a MX tire specifically for extremely hard packed "blue-groove" but the funny thing is that it lasted longer than all the other fronts I ran (~2500 miles before cupping enough to dismount.) I still have that tire on the shelf and had thought about remounting it in the other direction to see if it squares back up... realistically it will just be a spare for one of my tightwad friends!

    I may still try the michelin desert just so I won't always have to wonder how it works. It can't be worse than the motoz s/t that's on the front now (fingers crossed!) I do wonder if it is very narrow like the "90width" michelin m12 (measures closer to 80mm) I have or if it is a wider carcass like the "90width" michelin HP4 (measures closer to 95mm), it sure would be nice if they would standardize!
  2. Uller

    Uller Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,700
    Location:
    Arlington, WA
    I am really liking the Pirelli Scorpion Rally
  3. Biped

    Biped NooB Again

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    360
    Location:
    Oregon, Wet Side
    I've been running the Scorion Pro for several years now, but our soil is a little more moist up here. I average 1200 miles per tire, 70% dirt.
  4. The Letter J

    The Letter J lost in the 690 mega

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,086
    Location:
    Santa Maria, CA
    that scorpion rally is actually looking like a good option... I think I'll order one! Thanks Uller!:freaky
  5. MFS

    MFS Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    226
    Location:
    Prairies...
    So I'm ripping apart all my wiring this weekend. I've taped up 3 bared wires already, checked the plug, pump works but 2010 KTM 690 R = No Start. Haven't checked the side stand switch, forgot all bout that one, but highly doubt it.

    Going to cut/splice the bared wires proper, and take every wire off and look at each connection. Gotta be something there? Battery is charged, and looking at the wires something had to give somewhere, although I just haven't seen it yet.


    Arrghhh, at least I'll be confident in identifying future problems anyway! Run Baby Run!!!

    MFS
  6. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

    Joined:
    May 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,704
    Location:
    In the mountains?
    Have you tried to troubleshoot? Test points to find where the problem might be?
    Is your battery dead?
    Does the bike turn over?
    Does the starter relay get power?
    Does the starter motor get power?
    Does the starter button get power?
    Are all your fuses good?

    I'm not trying to be a dick.. I would try to narrow things down before you tear into your wiring. (although bare wire is a good indication.)
  7. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,609
    Location:
    San Antonio, Texas
    Can't let a tire thread die. :D I'm using Michlen T63. Cheap (under $130 front and rear, ship free from Motorcycle Superstore). Works well for me.
  8. daveknievel

    daveknievel Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,065
    Location:
    Doylestown PA
    [​IMG]

    Cracked 3/4 of the way round. Replaced lower tank bushings last year. Now this shit. Got it welded, we'll see how long it lasts.
  9. MFS

    MFS Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    226
    Location:
    Prairies...
    Hey there RoninMoto,

    My electric ability is limited unfortunatley, but the starter turns, I've had the plug out and she sparks when starter button is hit.
    All fuses good, and she pumps gas, can smell er if I crank long enough.
    Poor battery is on the charger, the past week has worn er out...

    The wiring was a noticeable (ie visual) flaw, and confirming there are no other poor ones, and check my connections.

    2 more items...

    -The side stand switch, how does that work exactly? (too rule out any fault) If figured there would be a contact point down there that would "switch" it on or off, but the way it looks is it a magnetic gizmo of sorts? The wire ends in what looks to be a black box or housing, with 2 screw heads. It looks intact, is it adjustable in some way?

    Clutch
    Thought I'd try starting it in gear, out of gear, and when I had it in gear, with clutch in the bike lurched forward on me when I hit the start button. This could mean what in realation to not starting??

    I can mess with this all day, in the end it'll be blind luck if it runs again cause of me. I do not have the capability to try a remap, once battery is charged tomorrow and I have the wiring reconnected I'll maybe pull the pump and have a look.

    I do like and enjoy the process, but do realize my limitations when it comes to electrical:huh

    That all said, Ronin I've followed your RR since you hit Canada. No way your trying to be a dick,:D all your "wiseguy" comments have problably been used up on a certain .01 percent of the Irish...:lol3
    That said, be safe on your travels!


    Any comments, or suggestions from any and all are welcome. It'll be headed back to a non-KTM shop next week, but the more I figure out on my own, the better. They did a valve check, (without making an adjustment,all good) for me and dropped it off. Didn't run right and now has stopped. Could be as simple as them pressure washing it to hard in the wrong spot (cause the bike came back CLEAN), or maybe starting it before the gauges did there "sweep" and messed up FI timing? Won't start regardless:cry

    Fruuustraaateeddd Innncoorrpaaraatteeddd...


    MFS
  10. Engineer John

    Engineer John Engineer

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    26
    Location:
    New Bunswick Canada
    Looks like the weld on the bracket was a little cold and the crack started there. Welding thin metal with wirefeed (MIG) there is a tendency to turn down the current and you get a big bead. This big change in thickness is a perfect place to start a crack.
    The weld on the flange looks much nicer, looks like TIG. I'd grind down the bracket weld to almost nothing and get the repair done with TIG.

    John
  11. Roadracer_Al

    Roadracer_Al louder, louder, louder!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,731
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    Yep. Mine started cracking at the front heat shield tab. I just removed the heat shield entirely and ground off the brackets.
  12. PatrickM

    PatrickM Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 6, 2012
    Oddometer:
    368
    Location:
    Zephyr Cove, NV
    Been shopping around for a secondary bike to my F800, and am waffling between a 500EXC and the 690 Enduro.

    Well, went to the dealer and dropped my bike in the parking lot (I had just come down a mountain and had an angry hornet fly under my shirt tearing the crap outta my gut before I was able to stop, rip off gear and stomp the mofo into the ground, that's my excuse and I am sticking to it) but I digress...

    They had a 2010 KTM 690 Enduro (i thought it was the 2013 model when I first saw it) with less than 100 miles (n00b knobs still all over the tire). I do like the 690 because I can tip toe both feet with my 30" inseam, unlike the 500 EXC.

    They were looking for basically $8500 (same price as another low mileage one in Texas).

    So, good deal or not?

    We are heading into winter in the Sierras (first real storm come Monday), so the riding season is coming to a close (ah, there is always California).

    I know a less about the KTM's than I'd like, so thought I would ask for help...

    Going price?
    Things to look out for?
    Assuming it sat for a year (or two), first things to look at?
    How good do these bikes work in the snow?
    Heated gear... How many spare watts does the system have?

    Thanks!
  13. modeselector

    modeselector Common as muck

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    624
    Location:
    Washington USA
    Since you plan on keeping your road bike (F800 :amazon) - I would lean towards the 500 to maximize your riding options.
  14. daveknievel

    daveknievel Long timer

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    Dec 7, 2011
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    1,065
    Location:
    Doylestown PA
    Yep. The bracket on my FMF muffler broke last year. So i took off the back heat shield. Did that exactly. Cut said bracket off and TIG welded. It is cheap stainless. and paper thin. We didn't use much filler rod. Got it to pull back together for the most part.
  15. Sutherngintelmen

    Sutherngintelmen around the bend

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2009
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    1,216
    Location:
    ATL
    I fixed mine this weekend. :lol3

    [​IMG]
  16. Sutherngintelmen

    Sutherngintelmen around the bend

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    Mar 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
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    ATL
    I think you can rule this out - if the bike will not start in neutral. The switch kills the motor if stand is down and not in neutral. Some folks have installed bypass to eliminate potential failure or untimely kill. I'd look elsewhere.


    Bike should not lurch when starting with clutch lever pulled. Needs adjustment. Should not impact starting if you can't get it fired up in neutral.
  17. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    Aug 12, 2007
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    Location:
    San Antonio, Texas
    Just because you see or smell gas doesn't mean you have the proper pressure needed (3.4 BAR / 54 PSI)

    It's a Hall effect switch. Don't think it's adjustable.
    If the bike moves forward while trying to start with clutch pulled it sounds like your clutch is dragging excessively. Cold oil sometimes causes that symptom. Shouldn't have much effect when starting in neutral.
  18. thorinoakenshield

    thorinoakenshield ya mo be there

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    449
    Location:
    IMHO, if you're going small....go SMALL! Get a 450....
    Keep the f800.


    For 690 info you can start here:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=766514
    Dunno if that's the best thread, but it should lead you in the right direction.
    It can handle heated gear just fine, just dial it down when you're going slow, like below 2000rpms.

    If it sat for a year or two I'd worry about ethanol.
  19. BK.RD.RNR

    BK.RD.RNR Torque Stick

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    5,913
    Location:
    Livin' in the 90's
    Have you tried the Pirelli XCMH? I'm not one who typically runs pure dirt tires, but I was really impressed with it's performance on dirt/ offroad.

    It wears fairly quickly on pavement, but I felt like I could use the front brake on dirt like I normally could on pavement.
  20. BK.RD.RNR

    BK.RD.RNR Torque Stick

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    5,913
    Location:
    Livin' in the 90's
    When I started switching accessories over from my 08, I found a significant crack in the same spot. I did not notice it last June when I put the FMF pipe on. I had over 25k miles on the bike at that point.

    I wonder if mounting the aftermarket pipe created some additional stress on that area that promoted the failure??

    @MFS

    The magnet for the sidestand switch is adjustable, you loosen the screw that hold it to the sidestand, and you can turn it a bit. I would suggest being careful not to use too much torque when tightening it back down, as I would guess that the magnet may not be able to take it..


    Re; Lurching with clutch pulled in.. Replace the slave cylinder. I wish I had listened to another inmate when he suggested I should do the same after complaining about clutch issues. If I had, I believe that I would not have had my engine go south, and thus ended up buying another 690..