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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.
Take that spring out and you've got cruise control
Originally Posted by offworlder
Replaced the headlight bulb in my 2010 690, thinking the old bulb had simply burnt out. The new bulb fired up for a few seconds then quickly died. Checked the voltage at the (lighting wiring) terminals, seems solid, non-intemittent; approx 12+ volts with the engine off, and 14+ volts with the engine running, no shorts between the high and low beams, etc...
Any ideas from the collective ?
Seems strange that the parking light, signals, etc... are all fine (as they use the same fuse as the headlight)....
Not to be a guy who responds with an immediatley negative comment, and then post what may be an unreasonable solution but my thoughts..
Stock headlight is garbage, and useless. Had mine for 3 years, but never rode at night, this summer I started too, and realized it for the hazard it was. Too easy to get over your head with a light that's only good for 40 kms per hour or so...
I went through 2 bulbs myself, and rather quickly although I just wrote it off as poor judgement by KTM by putting a bulb and system in the bike that is not "quality", and is there strictly for show.
That's the negative..
For my was the Lynx kit from Britannia Composites. Great (awesome) lighting and a functional, adjustable windscreen all in one. It costs money, but allows you to ride at night with confidence, to see better, and to be seen better as well by oncoming.
My opinion is forget the stock light, I'm not "hardcore" by any stretch of the imagination, but the stock light agreeably cannot be used for evening riding, to dim, hard to make out hazards on the flattest of surfaces.
Big Money to spend on the 690 to purchase for most, including me which was why I sat in denial so long and did multiple 2500 km trips with a stock 690. Don't wait like me, look for improved, reliable lighting (Lynx is my vote for value, service, look, fit and finish!) But there are other options. Money well spent, and will open you up to many more riding opportunities!
Even pavement riding will kill the filament in the bulbs used in the stock housing, let alone the shake rattle and roll of even the mildest offroad methinks.
Of course, this is advice from the guy who still hasn't chased down his own gremlin with the stalling, but snow and an unheated garage has dimmed my interest and my wits of late
Agree that the stocker sucks (2012 is supposed to be better, similar to the 08 "E"), but I digress. I do know Ian (Brittania composites), and the Lynx is a great product.
Nonetheless, while I may go with a 3rd party lighting system at some point, I dont ride at night, and simply want to figure out why the stocker is shorting....
The light on my 08E is MUCH better than that borrowed light from the RFS bikes they used between 09 and 11.
A couple aux LEDs and you're turning the night into day with low amp draw
For what its worth, if you run the headlight on main beam only (as opposed to dipped), they last 3 times as long. I have an orange lense protector fitted to my light, so I can get away with it, you may not. I have had as little as 2 weeks on the dipped before it blew. Its more a shit bulb spec than a poor light, although I have some conserns about the reflector as well. I'm converting mine to a Rally Raid UK fairing kit, so that's 1 less issue to deal with.
My 09 R model had the 35w bulb. It blew out and i replaced with a 60w. Bad idea. Melted the housing. Now i use the trailtech X2 halogen. But the low beam was shit in that too. Replaced that bulb with a severe duty one and has been fine since.
I can't see the first photo. Do you have photo of the wire from the front to the switch under the seat?
I heard that the 14 models were completely ride by wire. You sit on a couch and use an Xbox controller to ride the bike.
'15 will be ride by wi-fi.
Heard it from the owner of my neighborhood grocery shop.
Awesome. I won't need to replace the seat.
Ride-by-wire will be the standard for all bikes in the next few years.
Good? Bad? I don't know.
Anyway I think that a true rbw could be better than the hybrid solution currently installed on the 690 enduro.
Better how? With the current solution you are relying on the (easy to fix) mechanical cables, if the electric motor fails it will simply not override the butterfly in some situations any more but will still run fine.
Going back to the shims discussion, I rode up to the nearest Harley Dealership (which was less than a mile, these things are popping up like corner stores) to pick up some shims for an intake rocker replacement.
This was the parking lot. You can just BARELY see my bike hiding behind that 4runner.
Yup, I was the only bike there...
Cloudy day. Might rain.......
But, like many automotive systems, it may be possible to design a reasonable MC limp-back mode for situations such as failure of the throttle position sending unit.
Same old new vs old technology arguments. You know, points and condenser vs electronic ignition, carbs vs EFI etc, etc. New tech always wins out and after a while none really remembers how much better the old tech was.
Well, IMO we still have a long way to go before we reach the "after a while" point as far as reliability of fuel injection and fancier electronic gizmos on dirt bikes go... KTM doesn't still run carbs on their x00,000 $$$ factory rally bikes because they handle elevation and temperature changes so well...
But I sure was impressed that the Bergs start and run perfectly from 0 - >20,000 ft without having to touch anything! It's the future for sure.