New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. DirtWarrior

    DirtWarrior Adventurer

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    I purchased Xentec HID's for my 690, which has the 990 Adventure headlight (Rally Raid Kit). The light worked fine until last Sunday, when I rode it at the local OHV park, and it stopped working. After checking the wires, bulb, and connecting the ballast to my truck HID's, I found the ballast had went bad. Have any of you had any issues with HID's? I'm thinking something may have been wrong with the ballast to begin with, as the box said it was "shockproof."

    Thanks
  2. Mudguts

    Mudguts when in doubt GAS IT

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    Ballasts do that LED is the future, most suppliers will replace ballast
  3. DirtWarrior

    DirtWarrior Adventurer

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    What brand of ballast would you recommend? Are you saying maybe I should try another Xentec?
  4. rickypanecatyl

    rickypanecatyl SE Asia adventure tours

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    Sorry no help... I'm looking for a good ballast myself. HID's have much better color rendition than LED though some new smaller emitors such as the Nichia 219 are getting better. Of course LED's have less to break on them.

    Mega lumens from the new hi power LED's certainly have the wow factor - can blind others (and you when you hit reflective objects) but they don't help you SEE better than a good HID in a reflector. That's the tension between those two right now. "Aweing" someone with a lights power and helping you see better are not the same thing; there's no replacement for a well thought out/designed reflector.

    More light food for thought... it's really hard to beat a 50 watt, Hi CRI FX-7 Bi-Xenon projector for on the road lighting. What would be really awesome for you fabbing experts would be instead of having 2 swithes for hi/lo would be to have 3 for lo beam/hi beam/off-road only beam... actually 4 - have an "off" at the beginning. And it needs to be more durable.... maybe some kind of waterproof, rubber shock mounted holder for the ballast?
  5. hizzo3

    hizzo3 Adventurer

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    Well I will debate your white LED's not being up to par with HID in CRI index.

    In terms of your hid note though, Retro solution makes a multi watt mode ballast.


    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
  6. Mudguts

    Mudguts when in doubt GAS IT

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    I have 2 90mm hella's. With roo lights slim line HID ballasts , ( light force copy ) excellent light out put , but as stated above
    More failure points ,but no issues so far , my lights are set up. , off hi/lo. ( one lamp low beam both hi beam )
    The only thing I don't like is start up time , where LED is instant .

    Once I'm working again I,ll get a pair of baja squadrons set up the same way ,
  7. crankshaft

    crankshaft Guns are for pussies

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    I love my squadrons, they work very well. For the record, I've used a 50w hid in my 8" desert light. The LED seems better to me, I like the light color better.
  8. Mudguts

    Mudguts when in doubt GAS IT

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    I totally agree I find some hid hard to see they are bright but don't seem to light up the road. ( must be some sort of color blindness)
  9. amr2ul

    amr2ul Machinery 2 Upper Level

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    Agree about not seeming to light up the road as well. It seems that the light from my HID's is monochromatic, as opposed to the mixture that makes up "white" light coming out of incandescent lamps. It could also be that the color temperature of the HID's is too high. Lower color temps more closely resemble incandescent light, and that may be what's messing with our eyes.
  10. blakrj

    blakrj Need to ride

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    HID50.com - good enough for Walter and his extreme trips? Next on my to buy list
  11. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    This is what I have in my 690 right now. (35W dim, 50W bright in a euro 990 headlight) I do prefer LEDs though. No heat up time. I hate having to wait for the brights to come on for 20 seconds if they cool off. If it is only 1 car, the bright will come right back on... any longer then that and you have to wait for the heat up again. PITA in my opinion.

    My Aprilia 550 has a 1 HID bulb that moves location to change the focus between "dim" and "bright". It works better but doesn't have as good of pattern.

    I am thinking the best of both worlds would be a squadron for the bright and an HID for the dim. Or 2 squadrons.. one dimmed down for the "dim" and both on full power for the bright. 80w total and 7200 lumans :clap
  12. crankshaft

    crankshaft Guns are for pussies

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    Walter?

    [​IMG]
  13. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    No Dude.

    Walter...

    [​IMG]
  14. crankshaft

    crankshaft Guns are for pussies

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    Ah, of course:lol3
  15. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    No one mentioned that 2012's are 690 cc while earlier models are 654 cc (except for some SM models).
  16. rickypanecatyl

    rickypanecatyl SE Asia adventure tours

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    http://retro-solutions.net/product-info.php?ADJUSTABLE_DIGITAL_HID_BALLAST-pid674.html

    Interesting... I haven't seen those before.

    No question on average the CRI in HID's is higher than LED's... though the newer high CRI LED's are higher than the lowest HID's.
    Many people confuse color temp usually measured in Kelvins with CRI - color rendition index. For light color 3000K is yellowish - good for fog lights, 4000 close to many halogens (lower K when underpowered), 4,500-6000 close to natural sunlight, 7000 looks purpleish.
    CRI and Kelvin are not the same thing at all though in the past lower K lights often had higher CRI. It's higher CRI that helps you discern different colors, see the 3D effect of sand dune against sand dune or mogul against mogul when you are skiing.

    The recent advancement in LED's has been not only the size of the emitors, but the lumens (total light shinning) per watt increasing greatly over halogens. Where it used to be 2X XML U3s at 2.5 amps are putting out well over 100 lumens per watt "out the front" vs halogens doing 15ish. However, those particular LED's are almost as low as 60-65 on the CRI index vs 100 for halogen. LED's in the 90 CRI range though are now doubling lumens per watt over Halogen. More important though is the reflector.

    Sorry for the rant - I just rode 250 miles in the rain in the dark with the stock "R" headlamp and I have never seen anything so pathetic as that. The only good thing I can think to say about it is, if you look directly into the light while it's on to try and ascertain if the filament is broken and that's why it's not working, you won't hurt your eyes!
  17. blueillusion10

    blueillusion10 goodtimesgreatoddies

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    Has anyone replaced the water pump/impeller shaft? My seals got pushed in to far and rubbed against the wall/bearing? that's at the engine side of the shaft. It;s now got noticeable wear to it where the seal has been rubbing on it. seal had some of the rubber pealed off the back. I can now see a small space between the wall/bearing and the case?. approx 1mm. is that space normal? the shaft has some play as well. cant find a spec as to what is normal.

    Thanks for any input.
  18. Hosebag

    Hosebag Difficult but Useful

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  19. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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  20. modeselector

    modeselector Common as muck

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    New to this bike and new to fuel-injection so I'm turning to you "wise guys":wink: for advice and/or input. I realize many are switching to the metal Napa filter and I will probably do the same. That said...

    How much benefit would a secondary, in-line filter like this be?
    http://justgastanks.com/product_info.php?products_id=2511