New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. Head2Wind

    Head2Wind MotorcycleMayhem

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    So, with the added fuel capacity and associated weight, what springs are a good starting point to manage the new weight of the bike?

    [​IMG]
  2. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    It depends what you are doing with it. I am running the stock springs right now on the front of my 08. They are .52 i think?

    On dirt it is good. I like that it is a bit soft because the washboard gets smoothed out nicely. I have to be careful when blowing airtime (see pic a few posts above) because i can bottom the forks out.

    My old bike had .58 from superplush on the way to alaska. I later switched to .56 to soften up the front end. It was a bit to harsh but it also didn't dive under hard breaking.

    What do I like better? I have gotten quite used to the stock springs and they way they react under breaking and offroad. Thats just my .02$ though.:lol3
  3. LOZ

    LOZ Long timer

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    yes mate :evil



    loz
  4. LOZ

    LOZ Long timer

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    going into production as we speak

    loz
  5. tattewell

    tattewell Mad Poser

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    Probably about as much good as talking about Aprillia's and quoting the same pic over and over :norton
  6. Harty

    Harty Bloody Good Bloke!

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    Are you getting the new Evo 2 kit then Loz and taking off your current RR fairing??
  7. Sutherngintelmen

    Sutherngintelmen around the bend

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    Ideas on stalling at temp?

    This bike runs great as long as temps are down below 3/4. Keep it moving and no issues. But, when it warms up (not to pinned at max) it develops consistent stall and has on one occasion refused to start back up.

    Replaced fuel filter 1k miles ago, looked good in there. Pump charging and starts right up when cold. Electrics seem fine, connections checked, tight and greased. 15 minute idle reset done a couple of times.

    Thoughts on pinning this down before I start parts replacing?
  8. Bumpaman

    Bumpaman Been here awhile

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    Hi all. I want to use the Kriega Fork Seal Savers on my 2010 690 R but the plastic protector rings on the outer part of the fork leg have to come off. Has anyone done this and know how they come off? Just wanted to tap any expertise on the subject before I go and bung things up . Thanks very much.
  9. MrHix

    MrHix Been here awhile

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    You can cut them if you don't want to keep them or you can drive them up with a hammer & large screwdriver to remove.

    Cheers,

    MrHix
  10. Bumpaman

    Bumpaman Been here awhile

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    Thanks MrHix,
    Any consequences in removing these. My 05 950 doesn't have these and I just am wondering how important they are?
  11. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    You might be right. On the other hand, there are quite a few people here who LOVE their 690. I realize they have their issues.. but really, what bike doesn't?

    It might be wrong, but like others I take comments like this personally.
    "Excellent attempt KTM, but you shit the bed on waaaaaay too many issues to attempt to fix"
    It does not add to the conversation because it is broad statement/opinion of a problem with the only solution getting a different bike. For many in the US, 660 tenere, African twin, ect are not an option so we make due. When KTM stopped the 640adv, this became the next best thing. (better in my opinion)

    This thread helped me quite a lot when prepping my RTW bike. I would hope that others can pull the GOOD information out and not be turned off to the 690 by the negative comments like yours. So if you want help with your specific 690 issues .. just ask :deal

    If not, I hope you have fun with your African Twin. You will never see me post in the AT forum my opinion about if its any good or not. Cheers. ride safe.
  12. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    Nope. And there is a nice groove (where the plastic used to be) in the fork body where safety wire around your fork gators will work nicely.
  13. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

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    WTF is an Aprillia?? :huh
  14. jgbnm

    jgbnm Been here awhile

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    ---_--------------
    You might be right. On the other hand, there are quite a few people here who LOVE their 690. I realize they have their issues.. but really, what bike doesn't?

    It might be wrong, but like others I take comments like this personally.
    "Excellent attempt KTM, but you shit the bed on waaaaaay too many issues to attempt to fix"
    It does not add to the conversation because it is broad statement/opinion of a problem with the only solution getting a different bike. For many in the US, 660 tenere, African twin, ect are not an option so we make due. When KTM stopped the 640adv, this became the next best thing. (better in my opinion)
    _----------------

    I'll second this thought. Among the guys I ride with, there are many 690's and very very few problems with up to around 20k miles. The thread helps me learn about what could happen and about solutions that might exist. It's definitely not perfect, but I can't think of another bike out there that I'd rather own for the types of riding I prefer.

    My bike did die on me a couple of months ago in the middle of nowhere. Had a brief moment of panic until I realized my tank bag had nudged my key to the off position on a fast bumpy 2-track. :-)


    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
  15. ini88

    ini88 Been here awhile

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    I just ordered the older Rally Raid tanks because I like the look better. But these tanks and set up are sweet non-the-less!
  16. MrHix

    MrHix Been here awhile

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    I believe they are there to keep the guards from rubbing on the fork uppers. I took mine off and will put the earlier model fork protectors on with fork seal savers. The wrap around guards tend to push the savers around and down.

    Cheers,

    MrHix
  17. Sutherngintelmen

    Sutherngintelmen around the bend

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    Quit the squabbles, if you guys are going to beat the keyboard, how about drumming up something for me trouble shoot on this ill 690. :lol3

    It's illogical to me that injector cleaning will make the difference given how well the bike runs as long as it's not hot. But I did it anyway.

    I am curious for opinions on fuel pressure. In the first vid you can see some gas hit the floor but I'm mostly able to contain it. My thumb's not been calibrated to 55 psi -> should this firehose on me or does it seem right that I can stop it?

    And for you who've been thinking of an injector cleaning it is quick and easy even for FI noob like me. I do wish I had access to ultrasonic that some of you like but since I have acetone and compressed air on hand that's what I used.

    I'll take it out for a spin this afternoon - see what happens but don't think I've done anything helpful, just fooling around.

    Here is the pressure vid - seems good enough?

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/NMFXAl8uqo0?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    Injector is right under the air box - disconnect electrics then out with the phillips head (butter - careful.)

    [​IMG]

    Once removed you need a power source to open it if you are going to blow compressed air through it. I used a 12v battery from a drill.

    [​IMG]

    You can hear the injector activate when you close the circuit.

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/SALg2xG7N_0?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    I put it in some acetone then blew compressed air out.

    [​IMG]
  18. robm-951

    robm-951 n00b

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    I posted a separate thread, but it go no love so I thought I'd try in this one for some ideas.

    OK guys, I've got a tough one and I'm looking for suggestions on what else to check or try.

    Background: 08 690 SMC 18k miles. it's had an intermittent problem for a while. FI light would come on while riding and bike would go into a limp home mode and run like crap: exhaust would get super loud and bike would buck and jerk when applying throttle. Exhaust would also get really hot. Turn off the bike, restart and problem would go away. checked the blinking FI light code and it put out 9 blinks - manifold pressure sensor circuit out of range. checked sensor, connection everything looked fine, problem keeps occurring. Replace sensor and intermittent problem still occurs during rides and goes away after restart. realize 9 blinks can also be atmospheric pressure sensor value out of range. unplug, clean connection, everything looks ok, put it back. problem goes away for a few months. problem comes back. I recheck atmospheric pressure sensor again and such but problem keeps occurring randomly then seems to go away. Problem comes back in august before a big ride. I decide to just replace the Atmospheric pressure sensor. New sensor comes in the day before the ride. I replace it and try it out for a bit and problem seems gone. 1st day of big ride, bike does it again. restart the bike and problem doesn't show up again until this month. Trying to ride home from work problem repeatedly shows up and now does it immediately after starting. I figure probably a good thing if it's not intermittent anymore because I should be able to track it down. stop at a railroad crossing for a train, pull over turn bike off and wait till train and traffic clear up. start up bike and it runs fine all the way home. I go out to start it up later to check it out and the bike does it again, perfect.

    here is what I have tried so far:
    got out the laptop with tune-ecu on it and hook it up. it shows code P0108 which is either Manifold absolute pressure 1 sensor circuit high voltage (bank 1) or Ambient air pressure sensor circuit high voltage. I look at the reading in tune ecu and it shows the map sensor reporting back 5v. I check with a pin and a multimeter to the signal line coming from the map sensor going into the ecu plug and it reads just under 3v. I also check out the APS and it reads just under 4v. both are within spec of 1-4.2 volts for these sensors. I try unplugging each sensor one at a time and verify no voltage coming in on either sensor signal line and tune ecu always reads 5v for MAP sensor. I run continuity tests on all wires running from the ecu to each sensor and everything looks fine. I figure it must be an internal short inside the ecu. I take my ECU and try it out on another bike and the bike runs fine and doesn't have any issues. I plug the ECU back into my bike and the proble still exists. Now I'm stumped and don't know what else to check. Oh, and I also cleaned all the ground and positive terminals I could find, starter relay terminals, starter terminal, and 3 frame grounds.

    Anybody got any ideas?
  19. LOZ

    LOZ Long timer

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    you know mine mate,nothing wrong with it after thee years of gentle use

    loz
  20. ktmmitch

    ktmmitch Long timer

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    We have also had problems with the "butter headed phillips screws",and produced our own Hex Head replacements,works with KTM tool kit T handle 8mm socket.

    Hex Screw Kit Link