New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. Dotbond

    Dotbond Africa, Africa

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    896
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    Dunedin. New Zealand
    Has anyone pulled the front forks apart on the 2012 690?
    No-one in NZ has really had a lot of experience with the 690 suspension in general. 50mm race sag and i weigh around 78kg in my birthday suit. Front suspension is way too hard for general off-road riding, they bounce off small stones/bumps instead of soaking up the bumps.
    I have been recommended to take out the base valve stack and replace the 0.15 shims with 0.10 shims.

    Any ideas/comments welcome.
  2. dad2bike

    dad2bike Retired! Cranky Old Fart

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    ADV search is being a PITA for me today.
    Part of the mods I plan for the bike include the tank bolts. I've got the upper ones on order from twins.
    I'm looking at the options for the lower bolt/bolts/bushings. The 690 wiki only had the info on the bushing replace.
    Twins has a replacement one piece bolt and long bushing. I recall seeing someplace here a simple mod using a 5/16" long bolt and something for the center bushing. Anybody know the size of that? I hate to shell out $60 (KTMTwins) for $2 in parts. :eek1
  3. SKINNY

    SKINNY Been here awhile

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    I replaced the lower tank bolts with a better grade bolt on my 2008 model and had no more problems...you don't necessarily have to use a thru bolt & nuts...
  4. MrHix

    MrHix Been here awhile

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    I did that simple bolt fix. I drilled the sleeve out CAREFULLY (it is very hard) to fit a 5/16" bolt (Lowes). I put a washer on both ends of the bolt with a nyloc nut to hold it. I don't know how strong the bolt is, but I can replace it every year to maintain a safety margin.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers,

    MrHix
  5. dad2bike

    dad2bike Retired! Cranky Old Fart

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    YES! It was your post I saw. :clap
    So you used the existing bushing and drilled it out.
    Now I understand. Thanks! :freaky
    The one from Twins is supposedly a thicker bushing per their write up. Your solution saves a bunch of money for other goodies. :evil
  6. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    He does say (66 miles). The previously posted analysis is of unused Motorex 10/60 and the analyst concluded that the factory oil is the Motorex 10/60 oil, not dino oil. This was discussed a lot in the old Mega-thread. The glycol seemed to be an unusual additive. Many of us have seen the You-Tube videos of engine/bike manufacturing at the KTM factory. Each motor is run hard on a dyno after assembly and then run hard on a chassis dyno after the bike is assembled. Leads me to believe the correct thing to do with a new KTM bike is run it hard through 2 or 3 heat cycles to insure rings are seated, then drain the oil and ride normally (different for each of us). :D
  7. dad2bike

    dad2bike Retired! Cranky Old Fart

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    Thanks for the response. It was an old thread. I thought he indicated he was going to go much further. He never followed up with his long term results that I noticed.

    My new to me 690 has 8800 miles on it. I think the rings are broken in by now. LOL
    With all my reading I haven't found a specific reason for the heavy weight oil. My 950 specs 50w. It seems to be very happy with the 5w40. I'm thinking I will give the T6 a try for a cycle or 2 and see if there is any issues or oil consumption. Go from there.

    I've still got packages showing up at the house. Parker 425 this weekend. Next week I get to start tinkering. :clap
  8. Baja Dad

    Baja Dad Long timer

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    I have used Rotella in all my KTMs from my 150 thru my 640 and now in my 690
  9. dad2bike

    dad2bike Retired! Cranky Old Fart

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    Thanks! :clap
  10. ten.98

    ten.98 ...leave a trail

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    Hey Everybody, I bought a brand new 2012 690 Enduro R a few weeks back and just got a bunch of goodies in the mail for it today. Did the full Evo2 kit w/Akra pipe minus the cam. Did the SAS delete as well as the Canisterectomy as documented along in this thread.

    Got it most of the way back together, but figured I'd fire it up and make sure everything was good to go before I put the fairing and whatnot on.

    Bike turns over strong but wont fire. I tried starting it before I applied the map with the stock map, then I loaded the Evo map and tried again and nothing. I don't have any codes showing up in TuneECU and all the sensors are showing up fine. Fuel pump even kicks on after about 5-10 seconds of cranking.

    Haven't pulled the plug yet to see if I'm getting spark, that will be on the list of things to check tomorrow.

    Has anyone run into something like this before or heard of a similar situation?

    Jeremy
  11. Seth S

    Seth S Will _____ for _____

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    sanity?
    Did you load the efi map and the throttle map?
  12. Roadracer_Al

    Roadracer_Al louder, louder, louder!

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    Take it back appart and see which mission-critical doohicky you left unplugged. :deal
  13. crankshaft

    crankshaft Guns are for pussies

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    The 690 clutch doesn't seem to get along with the Rotella in my experience. The shifting action is stiff and it doesn't seem to slide into gear easily. Maybe your experience would be different? I thought you are sponsored by an oil company?
  14. Baja Dad

    Baja Dad Long timer

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    Seems to work perfectly fine all my other bikes
    I am going to try it in the.690

    Did have an oil sponsorships
    But cutbacks hurt everybody.
    Save the good stuff for the Race bikes
    And use Rotella all the other times
  15. Seth S

    Seth S Will _____ for _____

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    At $10000 the 690 is a ghetto bike..i would run whatever oil is on sale at the local jiffy mart
  16. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    Check your spark. No need to pull the plug.. just put a spare spark plug on the plug wire. The evo 1 you have to move the coil.. do you have to move the coil for the Evo 2? Maybe your low voltage coil wire came lose or something. This has happened to me and others.

    Good luck.
  17. Swap

    Swap Adventurer

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    +++++++++10000
    and for the rear shock too who gives sometimes à kick ass......
  18. ten.98

    ten.98 ...leave a trail

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    I tried starting before and after loading both maps. Since I haven't been able to do the 15 minute idle adaption I'm sure the FI map hasn't been committed to the ECU yet. Either way, having the proper map shouldn't keep me from being able to start I wouldn't think, it was just effect how well it ran once it was going.


    That's the plan for today. After doing all of the work required to fit the Evo2 I'm kind of second guessing whether or not I want to stick with it. It seems the battery relocation kit puts the positive terminal perilously close to the frame ( like within 3mm) and a good bump would possibly end badly for my electrical system. I'm guessing if I put in a small 8-cell battery it wouldn't be an issue.

    Also, with the airbox deleted it gives much easier access to the valves (which is what I was going for) but it also makes it a lot easier for water to get into the intake.

    I did have to move the coil to get the airbox out. I'll follow the wires around to see if I may have accidentally pulled something loose. Thanks for the tip.


    Jeremy
  19. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

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    Snerk :lol3
  20. wsmc831

    wsmc831 Been here awhile

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    Central Oregon

    Are you saying you've replaced the shims and it's an improvement?

    I've seen the information on that reduction of thickness but haven't seen much feedback from people that have actually done it.