Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.
Thanks d2d. I will remove the bracket for the seat.
6K miles. Every time my intakes were tight, When I got about 18K miles on the bike they were always out of spec tight. The 690's definitely a bike you don't want to go past the interval without checking. It's simple to do and cheap to shim when needed.
Yesterday I learned why the rollover sensor exists.
No pics. However, my Ginger threw me to the ground in slow deep sand. The wheels ended up above the handlebars. Rollover kill worked great. I had to cycle the power to start up again.
I've decided that feature will stay on my bike.
I'm totally satisfied with how my forks are working. The shock need TLC bad. Taking it off to give it to the surgeon this week. Forks I can do. Shocks are wayyyy over my head.
Made up a set of these this weekend. Worked good .
Sent from outer space with my Thunderbolt with Tapatalk.
I'm busy fitting the RR Evo 2 kit. After getting the principle bits fitted, I took it for a shake-down run. Everything was fine. Today messed around with getting the headlight aligned, getting fairings to fit and cleaned up the cockpit wiring.
When I wanted to take it for a run this evening, it started and idled fine. When I opened the throttle, it would either bog or flame out. It is possible to pick up revs when I open the throttle very slowly. Wicking it at any RPM causes a flame-out. It has fuel and no errors are display. All fuses OK.
Any ideas? I'm keen not to un-install everything.
what is the offset of a 2011 KTM 690 r
Top clamp part # 765.01.034.031
it has 30 top 32 Bottom stamped on the clamp
Is the adj offset realy 30/32 ?????
what happen to 20/22???
<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
Pinched fuel line?
I'm also leaning towards low fuel pressure.
My bike is a 2009 so I can't confirm that, but... 30/32 would make sense being that KTM claimed to have increased the steering lock, as long as the axle clamps were pulled back the same 10mm the rake/trail should be the same right?
What's the deal with the rear wheel spacers on the sprocket side?
I had this problem before, and I kind of ignored it. Now, I'm chaning my rear tire again and I was determined to remove the leftmost spacer.
What a pain in the ass! I had to bang it out with a screwdriver and aluminum rod. I marred the spacer all up to holy hell!!
Whoops....not a big deal,really.....
Why was I so determined? I wanted to see how effed my bearing where.
They're ok, thankfully, but I did find some RUST!! Most bike aren't lubed for shit from the factory, and this bike is no exception....
Dammit. Atleast the bearings spin fine....
So then I greased those spacers up with some marine grease and attempted to stick them back into the sprocket hub.
It's a tight fit! What the hell?! I had to tap them in with a mallet kind of hard!!! This seems really weird. The spacers have always slid in and out for every bike I've had, including another KTM.
Is that what everybody else has to do??!!
This means that for the next tire change, I'm going to have to go through all this crap again!!
It's such a tight fit, I'll have to struggle to get the spacers out again (even if I lubed them up)...for rust cleaning/bearing checking and re-lubing.
This is how I feel right now:
The research I have done so far and the very limited information available leads me to believe that the 690 stock springs are too soft for me (240 lb advanced rider) and the at the very least the forks are over damped for fast compression. So...from what I understand of suspensions: If the spring is too soft and the damping is too high, then the forks will feel harsh. If you go UP with spring rates, increase float slightly, soften high speed compression and progressively reduce bottoming resistance reduce the harshness at the limits of travel. I have been tending to start with 110mm air gap and add oil to get the best bottoming resistance, with the intention to work up to the best air gap to help reduce the progressive spring rate at max compression travel. I can state with a great level of assurance... my point of view on this is purely my opinion and is only based from learning and applying to my bikes. This tool has been a invaluable tool: http://www.shimrestackor.com/
Does anyone out there have a inventory of the shims in the different years of the forks and shocks that they would be willing to share?
EDIT: Oh, and as a side note, I have to say that the Factory rally bike that I rode (thanks Steve) before I got my 690 was one of the things that led me to really really want one of these bikes. The factory race suspension is SO AMAZING on fast stutter bumps. The faster the bike is ridden, the better it gets and it REALLY likes it when you are on the power through all types of corners, just CLAMPS the bike to the earth. freaking amazing. HOWEVER... the "public" version of the 690 suspension is very much NOT what the rally bike is.... the next HOWEVER is I hope that I can manage to get the WP suspenders close to the factory stuff...
Anyone know if the KTM Powerparts rad protection fits a 2012?
That link looks great. I'll have to look at it more.
As far as my forks go I came up with a stack using all the existing shims. Resorting the deck and removing a bunch. Sounds like what I did accomplishes what you noted. I did start with the .48 springs and 120 mm oil level. They felt great yesterday. I am considering going back to the .52 spring. I'll know more after I get the rear setup. The bike is so imbalanced now it is scary.
My rear shock is just plain foul. I can barely move the rear end. I pushed on a friends back end and it felt very much like my 525. I have my shock off and it will be gone thru and softened up this week.
A snipet from the restacker.com site regarding dance between spring selection and associated damping:
Through tuning of the compression and rebound damping both the soft and stiff spring setups can be made to produce identical bump travel and nearly identical suspension response times. Soft springs require heavy compression damping and light rebound damping. At the limit, soft springs are unable to produce the wheel acceleration rates needed in the rebound stroke to keep the suspension from packing.
Stiff springs with light compression and heavy rebound damping produce the fastest suspension response and the plushest ride. The trick in setting up a motorcycle suspension is to find the stiffest possible spring that still uses all of the suspension travel for the speeds and terrain that you ride. For a trail setup at low speed a light spring will be needed to insure the suspension uses all of the travel. At the higher bike speeds of a desert suspension setup a stiffer spring is needed to keep the suspension from bottoming.
EDIT: i keep doing this.... :) the working setup that I have in my 950 ADV includes a set of .60s and a complete rework of all shim stacks, hand blended transfer ports, 1/8" top drilled the spring guides, 1/8" drilled bottoming cups, no mid valve free float(some suspension shops drill a bleed hole through the valve piston), doubled drilled base compression valve holder, back relieved stack holders... Thinking that I am going to try this recipe on the 690, adjusted for weight and give it a try
Don't have a problem with the spacer on either my 17" 0r 18" wheels. Hell, it usually falls off just as I'm trying to slide the wheel back in.
Isolation tape around the inserts and tape around the metal part as tight as you can-> no movement
What is isolation tape?
if my experience is contrary to what everybody else is experiencing, maybe i should make a warranty claim?
i know stuck spacers are not uncommon, but the bike is less than a year old.
and putting them back in? i had to bang them back in. wtf?!??!
Yes. I have it on my 2012 R.