Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.
I pulled mine apart & cleaned out the white powder .
I got a new speedo from the dealer...in the months it took to do so I fixed my own. The powder comes from the the printed plastic breaking loose of a mounting pin and then chaffing on the lcd. My fix was crude but worked well. I simple took it apart, carefully popped the speedo needle off and cut the plastic window out of the printed piece (the plastic window that sits above the LCD panel). Cleaned all the powdered plastic out and reassembled...put some silicon sealer on the missing pin. It wasn't a perfect fix but it stopped the vibration and the display was readable again.
Anyone ever have a rear brake lock up on them??
I just got back from a 2-day ride and everything was fine. I unloaded the bike at a friends house and rode home approx. 2 miles. By the time I got home the rear brake was locked almost to the point that I could not move the bike. Rear brake lever had zero travel in the driveway. I had to bleed the rear brake to get the bike rolled into the garage.
Any in-sight into this problem would be great.
I've cleaned it twice, but that doesn't solve the flickering LCD - which is the primary function of the speedo.
Yes, in fact. I had this happen on the front brake of a CB750 not long after I bought it.
My theory is that some water gets into the system, and causes a bit of rust or corrosion in the caliper, causing it to drag. The heat rises until it creates steam, which expands in the caliper, forcing the piston harder and harder against the rotor until it won't turn.
If this isn't true, it ought to be.
The solution is complete replacement of the brake fluid -- clean everything with alcohol prior to reassembly and leave to dry overnight or blow dry with compressed air. And check your caliper for cleanliness.
Flickering is the primary function? hmmm mine must be defective.
Please indicate which year bike you have and if you have changed out the stock lever or not.
The stock brake lever setup uses a bushing for a pivot..the early bikes were just metal and the later were plastic. This area gets full of dust/dirt/mud etc and the pedal starts to bind. So you use the pedal and it actually sticks on...this in turn heats up the brake rotor, pads, and fluid and causes the fluid to boil. So when your pedal pops back the system is cooked and you have a floppy pedal.
Thats my guess
My 08 was doing this, was related to the bushing area of the lever pivot being fouled with crap and the lever would stick down holding the rear brake on. I also had bent and straightened lever several times so I ended up replacing the lever assembly with this billet one from ADVmachines For the 08-10 bikes it does require changing the bolt out to the newer style. It was a complete transformation of the feel of the rear brake on my 690.
Common problem with the 08's, Metal bushing at the brake pivot is binding. You can get the plastic replacement bushing that KTM has now that supersedes the metal one, or you can buy an aftermarket brake lever that comes with a bearing. You can hit it with WD 40 or some other spray lube every time you ride while you wait on the new bushing. Oh, and the pivot bolt is left handed threads.
I know you already have to cleanspeed lever.
On the same rides with you.
I had mine fade away half way down that mountain going into Bishop. I do not know what fluid was in there before. I did a fluid flush with fresh DOT 5.1 fluid. I suggest you do the same for your issue. I compressed the caliper full travel as well to clean that fluid out of there.
I do a fluid flush on my brakes and the Clutch at least twice a year.
My story begins with HOLY CRAP!
Last year I bought my 2010 690 with 700 miles on it and an extended warranty. It was such a great deal I had to strike. Over the past year I done some single track, dual sports, long slab, everything, and the more I dished it out, the more she took it. Then I noticed after about 2000 miles a small coolant leak at the base gasket between the case and the cylinder just under the exhaust port. Wasn't bad, didn't seem to be losing coolant. No worries. The last ride I checked and saw the leak was bad; dripping down off my skid plate. I opted to slab back home rather than do the next 12 miles of sand wash jacking my engine temps. Then I said, well this thing is going into the shop. I could to the gasket myself but if it's covered by the extended warranty, why not have someone else tear my ride down to its essence. They confirmed the leak and the repair was covered. They put it back together and tested it. Leaked again, same spot. Tore it down once more and inspected mating surfaces. The cylinder was cracked!!! Now I'm waiting for the warranty adjuster to OK the new repair. The dealer says KTM won't allow them to just replace the cylinder so it needs a new top end! HOLY CRAP!!! I can't wait to see this bill (that I won't be paying for!). I don't like the idea of someone else fooling around with my girl, but this time I'm glad they are!
Thanks, Hoots. I've corresponded with Noah as well and it looks like I'll go with the Unifilter also.
Much ado about nothing I guess.
Yup. Had the same on the WABDR last year. We did a little diversion to a dealer somewhat en route and they took it apart to clean it up. Worked fine after that but I do plan to replace it with an aftermarket piece.
Not sure about the interior diameter of the fuel hoses on the 690. Looking to replace the submersed hoses with teflon.
anyone that may know
major electrical power failure tonight, left me 1 km from home, it started intermitently then failed... removed the sea checking for battery, master relay connections.. nothing obvious.. pulling up on the main hareness going under the air box made it come alive again.. then fail. but I could make the bike come on and off at will moving the harness...
bikes back in the garage for me to goof with it tomorrow... any ideas where to look...?
again total electrical failure... it started with setting a fuel pump code, then a complete power failure. found moving the harness will restore the power and start, drive... I did a fuel pump and a fmf slip-on on it a month ago. (ca-cycle)
probably simple to fix, shitty to find...
There is a large group of ground wires in the large bundle just in front of/below the battery. The grounding system is crap on these. I found issues with mine. I cut the entire thing out and soldered together the wires and covered it all in waterproof shrink wrap. It solved my issues. Beany (RIP) told me about it and that it had affected others he knew.
Lifting your tank for the pump install could have stressed that wire bundle easily depending on what day of the week it was originally installed.
i love this place
I also believe the bike was built on a friday at 5pm....
The factory actually stops production around noon on Friday, not sure if that helps as everybody is just thinking about leaving by 10am...
The bike is a 2008 E, Clean Speed Engineering brake lever. After bleeding the brake I observed no binding what so ever in the brake lever. I will bleed the brake to see if this fixes the problem. The Pedal itself was rock hard when the brake was stuck. When I bled the brake it returned back to normal operation.
The ride that I returned from was two days riding in and around Death Valley. Approx 200 miles each day. Very little mud, but lots of dust.