New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. Hoots

    Hoots Long timer

    Joined:
    May 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,102
    Location:
    Gundaroo NSW OZ
    I have just replaced my RR Twin Air kit with a Unifilter - the RR Twin Air filter is very loud, which bothers some people but I was OK with it - the RR Twin Air filter definitely has better throttle response than the Unifilter - I didn't notice any difference at all in fuel consumption with the RR Twin Air filter, although it does feel much more sporty and for that reason you feel more tempted to slide around ...

    I replaced the RR Twin Air filter as (in my opinion) it is just too exposed without a full rally or ADV fairing (eg the RR product) - the problem is exacerbated if you fit the RR Evo-2 tanks without the fairing (as I did) - in doing that, you need to remove the plastic that extends from around the ignition key down the sides - when you do that, you can stand in front of the bike and just look at the RR Twin Air filter - this means that dust and rain goes straight onto it ...

    Not tenable in my view ...

    Thought about fabricating some protection that fitted around the front and shielded the filter but (like yourself) had also been concerned about how exposed to flooding I would be if I laid the bike down in a creek ...

    So, replaced the whole assembly with the Unifilter alternative - which retains the plastic snorkel - all OK, but miss that bark and throttle response - this big motor needs to breathe ...
  2. slidefighter

    slidefighter Gather it up, keep on...

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    520
    Location:
    South Carolina Low Country
    The suggestion from the board to weld on a big washer to the kickstand foot worked out well. I had a welder cut 3/4" off the kickstand leg and then weld a 2 1/4" steel washer to the foot.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    My welder friend is good! Lowered the triple clamps 1/2" tonight too. Ride tomorrow!
  3. Roadracer_Al

    Roadracer_Al louder, louder, louder!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,009
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    Nope, 2008 Enduro.
  4. practicalshooter

    practicalshooter Posteriophobiac

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    154
    Location:
    Winter wonderland
    I finally got mine to start again yesterday, after a long winther inactive.

    Had to use a trailer to get it home after the last trip in the autumn, and as it was snowing I havent bothered to try to figure it out very intensly - my garage is not heated. I decided straight away it looked like a pump/filter issue, and decided to start by changing both and get some proper fuel hose in there at the same time.

    This is where the first nightmare started... I think I made 50 phonecalls trying to source some SAE30R10 compliant submersible fuell hose, first in Norway then in Europe. No luck. Most people didnt have a clue to what I was talking about ("surely you can use 30R6 submergedm it's designed to withstand fuell"). Readily available, if a bit expencive in the US, it's simply not possible to get here. Lots of US dealers online, none of whom I found that both had the right hose in stock AND were willing to ship to Europe.

    In the mean time I had the injector cleaned, and even if it wasnt completely cloged, it by no means produced the nice fine mist it should.

    In the end I emailed James Renazco, and he helped me by ordering the hose for me in the US and then mailing it to me. That's what I call custommer service:clap

    Thanks James!

    Anyway, got it all together yesterday, and hooked up TuneECU.

    "Failure in ambient pressure sensor, or sensor short to gorund" (from memory).. anyone seen that before? couldnt find any reference to it at all. In the end, I changed the plug and away it went.... Spoke to a norwegian KTM mecanic and he had spent a full two days figuring that code out before he tried that.

    Anyway, in the end it started. Now it's back out to refit all the stuff that have been stripped in the process, cleaning properly and just maybe a small testflight:D

    BTW, the insulation on the wires from the alternator to the coil were almost burnt through by the exhaust, worth checking for everyone I guess.

    /D
  5. Brute

    Brute Melbourne , outer east .

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,286
    I pulled mine apart & cleaned out the white powder .
  6. Seth S

    Seth S Will _____ for _____

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,005
    Location:
    sanity?
    I got a new speedo from the dealer...in the months it took to do so I fixed my own. The powder comes from the the printed plastic breaking loose of a mounting pin and then chaffing on the lcd. My fix was crude but worked well. I simple took it apart, carefully popped the speedo needle off and cut the plastic window out of the printed piece (the plastic window that sits above the LCD panel). Cleaned all the powdered plastic out and reassembled...put some silicon sealer on the missing pin. It wasn't a perfect fix but it stopped the vibration and the display was readable again.




    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  7. KC-10ENG

    KC-10ENG Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    147
    Location:
    Las Vegas, NV
    Anyone ever have a rear brake lock up on them??

    I just got back from a 2-day ride and everything was fine. I unloaded the bike at a friends house and rode home approx. 2 miles. By the time I got home the rear brake was locked almost to the point that I could not move the bike. Rear brake lever had zero travel in the driveway. I had to bleed the rear brake to get the bike rolled into the garage.

    Any in-sight into this problem would be great.

    Thanks
  8. Roadracer_Al

    Roadracer_Al louder, louder, louder!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,009
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    I've cleaned it twice, but that doesn't solve the flickering LCD - which is the primary function of the speedo.
  9. Roadracer_Al

    Roadracer_Al louder, louder, louder!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,009
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    Yes, in fact. I had this happen on the front brake of a CB750 not long after I bought it.

    My theory is that some water gets into the system, and causes a bit of rust or corrosion in the caliper, causing it to drag. The heat rises until it creates steam, which expands in the caliper, forcing the piston harder and harder against the rotor until it won't turn.

    If this isn't true, it ought to be. :D

    The solution is complete replacement of the brake fluid -- clean everything with alcohol prior to reassembly and leave to dry overnight or blow dry with compressed air. And check your caliper for cleanliness.

  10. Seth S

    Seth S Will _____ for _____

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,005
    Location:
    sanity?
    Flickering is the primary function? hmmm mine must be defective. :rofl
  11. Seth S

    Seth S Will _____ for _____

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,005
    Location:
    sanity?
    Please indicate which year bike you have and if you have changed out the stock lever or not.

    The stock brake lever setup uses a bushing for a pivot..the early bikes were just metal and the later were plastic. This area gets full of dust/dirt/mud etc and the pedal starts to bind. So you use the pedal and it actually sticks on...this in turn heats up the brake rotor, pads, and fluid and causes the fluid to boil. So when your pedal pops back the system is cooked and you have a floppy pedal.

    Thats my guess
  12. Head2Wind

    Head2Wind MotorcycleMayhem

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,661
    Location:
    NorthWet Washington
    My 08 was doing this, was related to the bushing area of the lever pivot being fouled with crap and the lever would stick down holding the rear brake on. I also had bent and straightened lever several times so I ended up replacing the lever assembly with this billet one from ADVmachines For the 08-10 bikes it does require changing the bolt out to the newer style. It was a complete transformation of the feel of the rear brake on my 690.

    [​IMG]
  13. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
    Oddometer:
    12,513
    Location:
    NWA
    Common problem with the 08's, Metal bushing at the brake pivot is binding. You can get the plastic replacement bushing that KTM has now that supersedes the metal one, or you can buy an aftermarket brake lever that comes with a bearing. You can hit it with WD 40 or some other spray lube every time you ride while you wait on the new bushing. Oh, and the pivot bolt is left handed threads.
  14. dad2bike

    dad2bike Retired! Cranky Old Fart

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,595
    Location:
    Las Vegas, NV
    I know you already have to cleanspeed lever. :D
    On the same rides with you.
    I had mine fade away half way down that mountain going into Bishop. I do not know what fluid was in there before. I did a fluid flush with fresh DOT 5.1 fluid. I suggest you do the same for your issue. I compressed the caliper full travel as well to clean that fluid out of there.
    I do a fluid flush on my brakes and the Clutch at least twice a year.
  15. Bigbugberg

    Bigbugberg Meatbucket Supreme

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    367
    Location:
    1313 Mockingbird Lane
    My story begins with HOLY CRAP!
    Last year I bought my 2010 690 with 700 miles on it and an extended warranty. It was such a great deal I had to strike. Over the past year I done some single track, dual sports, long slab, everything, and the more I dished it out, the more she took it. Then I noticed after about 2000 miles a small coolant leak at the base gasket between the case and the cylinder just under the exhaust port. Wasn't bad, didn't seem to be losing coolant. No worries. The last ride I checked and saw the leak was bad; dripping down off my skid plate. I opted to slab back home rather than do the next 12 miles of sand wash jacking my engine temps. Then I said, well this thing is going into the shop. I could to the gasket myself but if it's covered by the extended warranty, why not have someone else tear my ride down to its essence. They confirmed the leak and the repair was covered. They put it back together and tested it. Leaked again, same spot. Tore it down once more and inspected mating surfaces. The cylinder was cracked!!! Now I'm waiting for the warranty adjuster to OK the new repair. The dealer says KTM won't allow them to just replace the cylinder so it needs a new top end! HOLY CRAP!!! I can't wait to see this bill (that I won't be paying for!). I don't like the idea of someone else fooling around with my girl, but this time I'm glad they are!
  16. CordR

    CordR Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    539
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC

    Thanks, Hoots. I've corresponded with Noah as well and it looks like I'll go with the Unifilter also.

    Much ado about nothing I guess.

    C
  17. CordR

    CordR Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    539
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC

    Yup. Had the same on the WABDR last year. We did a little diversion to a dealer somewhat en route and they took it apart to clean it up. Worked fine after that but I do plan to replace it with an aftermarket piece.

    C
  18. slidefighter

    slidefighter Gather it up, keep on...

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    520
    Location:
    South Carolina Low Country
    Not sure about the interior diameter of the fuel hoses on the 690. Looking to replace the submersed hoses with teflon.

    thanks...


    Lee...
  19. shipwrek12001

    shipwrek12001 Shipwrek

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,120
    Location:
    Ottawa
    anyone that may know


    major electrical power failure tonight, left me 1 km from home, it started intermitently then failed... removed the sea checking for battery, master relay connections.. nothing obvious.. pulling up on the main hareness going under the air box made it come alive again.. then fail. but I could make the bike come on and off at will moving the harness...

    bikes back in the garage for me to goof with it tomorrow... any ideas where to look...?

    again total electrical failure... it started with setting a fuel pump code, then a complete power failure. found moving the harness will restore the power and start, drive... I did a fuel pump and a fmf slip-on on it a month ago. (ca-cycle)
    probably simple to fix, shitty to find...:cry
  20. shipwrek12001

    shipwrek12001 Shipwrek

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,120
    Location:
    Ottawa

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