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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.
Does anybody use this KTM 690 tankbag:
I used it for a while every day, for tools and everything else. I've since built a tray where the airbox used to be and mounted a drybox for my tools and now wear a Kriega R25 for everything else... Just didn't like the tankbag on the bike ALL the time, but it works great for long trips, etc...
This new headlight should fit the 690.
A bit pricey but looks very cool.
Can't find any other info besides the videos.
Enduro-Tech LED Hi/Low (4500/1800 lumen)
Similar to what Uller mentioned a few pages back.
Just in front of the top right tank bolt is a ground wire that bolts to the frame. I should have checked that early on but it looked OK. Anyway I traced a brown/purple wire from a speedo connection all the way back to that ground. I took the insulation off that ground and discovered there were three small wires and one bigger wire all crimped to the connector. No solder. Just crimped. One of those small wires was broken and another was almost broken. I soldered, waterproofed, and strengthened that connection and the speedometer works! So if your speedometer stops working, check that connection first. I wish I had!
BTW I took the sleeving off a good bit of the wiring loom from the fuse box all the way to the ignition and all those wires looked like new. It was a major pain re wrapping all that stuff.
That light does look cool... I have thus far been unable to really do any nighttime riding with the baja designs light(which is now on a smart dimmer).
Any tips for nice 690 graphics? more interested in any US on-line stores.
That looks like a different bag...bigger,that looks like the bag I had on my 950.
So I've got a '13 with 500 miles. Almost all of those miles off road. I had to ride the bike to a charity event this morning. This morning was almost all interstate. So I needed to pass a truck this morning...I opened up the throttle at 60ish. Immediately the revs come up to 7k plus, but not the power? I can't possibly need a clutch already? I tried in all gears, and it seemed to be a repeatable problem in every gear. Smooth roll on the gas, and no issue. Hammer the throttle, and for a small period of time, between 5k and 8k I'm just making noise? Any ideas?
That's the bigger back alright. I have that one for my 640 adv.
Good bag this one.
Have you checked your clutch fluid reservoir? The fluid level rises as the clutch wears so you could take a peek to see that it's not overfilled. The fluid level should be 4 mm below the top.
I worry about these high strength brake pedals, I have broken the stock pedal at least 2x (maybe more, I can't remember), and the G-it side guard has prevented the pedal from piercing the engine cover, but if the pedal could not bend I wonder what damage could be done to the frame pedal mount point. I still prefer the cheap OEM replacement pedal than an unbreakable pedal that creates a risk with the frame, so I just carry a spare brake and clutch pedals on my longer trips (the spare clutch pedal proved useful for a friend recently).
http://www.ridepg.com/ is pretty good. i dont think they have full kits, but you can email them. they did my number plate, fork and fork protector decal:
Thanks, I've google it found this one in Germany, looks pretty cool.
I'm not sure how to say it nicely, your logic sucks. A stock pedal cost's ~$129 while the stock footpeg bracket cost's ~$132. The footpeg bracket is WAY less likely to get fubared compared to the stock pedal so just put on the stronger pedal and break less often... even if you did damage the footpeg bracket, it would be less frequently (never) so no matter how you slice it going with the stronger pedal (after ruining the stocker) will come out cheaper in the end. Much cheaper and less frustrating than buying a couple stockers every season! If you were that worried about it, you could Heli-coil the female threads on the frame bracket side and use a grade 8 (or F9-11) bolt there too, I wonder what the weak link would be then?
Maybe I should install weaker handlebars so that I don't break my bar mounts again? Then I could just carry spare low quality parts with me? Not likely.
I agree with Christophe on this one.
Once you've had some frame damage resulting from a twisted pedal or footpeg, you'd do the same ...
The bike prior to this one was written off for this reason - in this country, you can't re-register a bike that has had any form of frame damage - end of bike, which fortunately was reimbursed by the other party's insurance ...
Aside from that, damage to attachment points is generally not repairable in the bush - which can be a major issue ...
Softer levers can generally be re-bent several times before they break - and generally last several years ...
If you are worried about breaking the frame because of a strong brake pedal then drill some holes in the pedal to weaken it...basically introduce a designed fail point.
Took a peek, level looked OK. I just took the same route home, and the bike was doing the same thing. Hit the gas at 5k and revs shoot up to 8k, but no corresponding increase in power??? After a second, RPMs drop, and the bike makes power. It's just like the clutch is slipping?
If you worry, don't put one on. I worry more about the stock pedal bending easily and the pad breaking a hole in the clutch cover in the middle of nowhere. I laid the bike over in a gravel ditch when it stalled (where is my Rekluse?) and the pad bent up 90 degrees towards the clutch case. I know a small hole can be fixed with putty and oil can be replaced, but I can ride the bike for quite a distance without the rear brake (especially as someone said if it breaks at the pivot bolt).
Sure sounds like it. Smell the engine oil -- does it smell burned? If so, it's definitely clutch.
Ordered! Now what about the toe tip part, dealer or is there something else out there? Part number? Mine is somewhere out in the woods still attached to the tip of my brake pedal.