New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. Yellow Pig

    Yellow Pig Allergic to Asphalt!

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    ktmmitch:

    When are you guys gonna put out some decals/graphics for the Evo-2 Tanks Only (No Fairing)?

    Thanks, Dan

    PS Loving the kit. Top notch.

    [​IMG]
  2. ktmmitch

    ktmmitch Been here awhile

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    We should have them next week.....
  3. Yellow Pig

    Yellow Pig Allergic to Asphalt!

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    :clap:clap:clap:clap:clap

    Teaser?
  4. slidefighter

    slidefighter Gather it up, keep on...

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    Two questions:

    1. Back in the dark ages on this thread, there was a discussion on what to do about fairing screws spinning the nuts in the gas tank. I've looked in my notes and I can't find what the consensus solution was. Mine are spinning and there doesn't look to be any room in the nut well to get any JB Weld (or similar) in there to lock them down. Should I put the screw back in without the fairing as far as I can and then lever them out, fill the cavity with JB and then set them back in to cure? What's the websitewisdom say?

    2. Also, I can't find anything that screws into the smaller, middle screw hole in the picture. Was that something that was removed when my dealer did the canisterectomy, or something? Any idea what was there or what it is that I'm missing?

    [​IMG]

    Thanks,



    Lee...
  5. sdd04

    sdd04 Been here awhile

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    That hole is empty on my 2013, and I think I found a picture in the owners manual also showing it empty.
  6. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer

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    If it's a brand new bike I would take it to the dealer and tell them it's defective and let them sort it out before I pulled them out. Because once you do they're going to want nothing to do with it. If it's not new or they're unwilling to help, I'd contact KTM directly and see what they say.

    Also that smaller, middle screw is empty on mine (2013) as well.

    BTW, while you have the fender/cover off inspect two areas: the top of the tail light and both sides of the gas tank that it covers. Mine was rubbing and it was cutting a pair of notches in the tail light and there was significant abrasion on the tank on the left side of the gas tank. I needed to add some nylon washers between the cover and the nut to provide clearance in both areas.
  7. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    In case you didn't see this response.
  8. kingby

    kingby Adventurer

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    Dumb things we do.

    Keep in mind I am learning as I go here and am fairly new at bike maintenance.

    I guess I wasn't reading the manual carefully enough and managed to incorrectly adjust the chain tension (don't ask:deal... way too tight... I am an engineer who reads plans and dimensions all day and still managed to read the diagram wrong:rofl). Promptly went out for about 200 miles of riding over the next couple of days. Some dirt, some road.

    Anyway, I just have this feeling that I didn't adjust the chain correctly, and of course do some reading online, re-read the manual and sure enough, I have the chain way too tight. I also read about the catastrophic potential of riding with a tight chain. So now I am a little worried.

    I don't think I damaged anything, the transmission still is working fine, no leaks from countershaft seal (at least from what I can tell), sprockets and chain look no worse for the wear, no play in wheel bearings, so I think I am OK.:freaky

    I have re-adjusted the chain using the method in the manual (push the chain up towards swing-arm from a point 30mm back from the chain slider with 5mm clearance to the swing arm itself). Now I am second guessing myself that it is too loose. My last bike was a Honda 450X a few years back and I recall the chain being tighter than this.

    Do KTM chains operate a little looser than other bikes? What is everyone's thoughts on possible damage done to the bike due to my nice tight chain run, that just hasn't appeared yet?
  9. slidefighter

    slidefighter Gather it up, keep on...

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    Thanks for the info, guys. Unfortunately, my dealer is a 400 mile round trip away from here. I'll give them a call and see what they suggest though, that is a very good idea.

    What a great bike!


    Lee...
  10. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer

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    Was the chain tight when the rear axle, swing arm pivot and front sprocket formed a straight line? If not, then absolutely no damage was done. If it was then it's a matter of "how tight". If there is no visible damage, no leaks, and nothing is bent (you should probably put a dial indicator on the front sprocket shaft), then you may be ok.
  11. kingby

    kingby Adventurer

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    Didn't specifically check at axle/pivot/sprocket alignment position before I backed off the tension, but I am pretty sure it was too tight. Instead of 5mm clearance from swing arm (as per manual), I had about 30mm play (as per my dumbass initial read of the manual).

    I just went out and checked the countershaft/sprocket area. Definitely no play and no leaking. I don't have a dial indicator but spun the wheel/looking at the shaft and nothing appears bent to the eye. There were no abnormal vibrations when riding today (after loosening adjustment).

    Hopefully I dodged the bullet. Suppose I'll just keep riding and see how it goes.

    Update: Went out and checked again. By eye the CS spins straight as an arrow. Maybe I will pick up a dial indictor to double check. I assume this is a hardened piece of steel and and pretty tough to bend, with seals, sprockets and bearings giving out before the shaft. Also if it was bent, I would also assume the seal would surely be leaking (currently looks clean as a whistle). Some of the stories I have read show that the seal leaks if you look at it wrong.:evil
  12. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer

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    Sounds like you didn't damage anything. I'd still borrow an indicator and then you can definitely not worry about it again.
  13. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

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    Depends on the KTM, the PDS system that's on the race bikes requires a lot looser chain. The 690 has a standard linked suspension like most other bikes so there's no need to run it any looser then what you're used to.
  14. kingby

    kingby Adventurer

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    Before I go removing the CS sprocket to check the shaft with a dial indicator, will I need to replace the lock washer (the bent one), when I put it back together? Or can I just pound it as flat as I can and use a new area of that washer to bend against the nut?
  15. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

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    You can reuse them a couple times.
  16. Gros Buck

    Gros Buck Beef = Packed Vegetables

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    The other way around ...

    Because the oem pedal bends so easily, it is known the pedal tip punched through the cover once bended ... Keep your oem pedal and have things broken. Like Mitch said, it is your decision ...

    Pauljr
  17. sdd04

    sdd04 Been here awhile

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    This is what happened to mine, though it looks like I saved the cover.
  18. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    Chain tension: One way to check tension is to stand to the right side of the bike, face the seat, place full weight of body on seat by leaning chest/gut on seat, so as to compress shock the most you can (grab the swing arm on left side of bike as you are putting body weight on seat and pull downwards to compress shock more) and check chain tension....it should have just a bit of slack.

    That's my method for the pro-link as well as RFS smaller bore KTMs.

    That as well as the method outlined in manual...

    You will likely hear chain-slap when operating bike if tension is too loose.
  19. ScottDill

    ScottDill TANSTAAFL

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    Not sure about the bikes you mention, but on the 690, you just put it on the side stand and measure the tension. Basically you want it to almost, but not quite, be able to touch the swingarm.


    [​IMG]
  20. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    Yeah, we are all experts here:rofl.

    Lotsa ways to manage your chain :ear