New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. Bill the Bong

    Bill the Bong Supern00ba

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  2. ktmmitch

    ktmmitch Long timer

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    Next on list, much easier to do on earlier forks
  3. Velociraptor

    Velociraptor TrackBum

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    I am interested in a kit for my 2009 690r. I also would like to take some harshness out of the front forks. Any interest in making a revalving/shim kit?
  4. alpine rider

    alpine rider Adventurer

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    While I understand the obvious benefits of longer travel suspension, will an upgrade to 300 mm also improve the plushness/action of the suspension? I mean, I only weigh 170 lbs, but the forks are so stiff, even with the compression adjusters backed all the way out, I don't come anywhere near using all the stock travel
  5. v8toilet

    v8toilet Nothing to see here.

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    I'm sure that the kit has vastly improved valving and they most likely install the correct spring rates for each riders weight and preference.

    Your stock setup can be revalved to be more plush.
  6. bayarearider

    bayarearider Been here awhile

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    Quote:
    <table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset"> Originally Posted by RoninMoto [​IMG]
    I gotta say, I would check spark first. At least you can eliminate that if it isn't the problem. Start big an narrow.
    Troubleshooting a bike is like playing 20 questions. You don't say someones name on your first question so why do you assume it is your injector, pump, or filter? These might be a common issue in the bike, but this is your bike, now, with an unknown issue. Start basic. Spark, Air, Fuel. You can pretty much always eliminate air from the start. Checking your spark is easier then checking fuel.. unless you crank it over till you smell fuel. Once you KNOW it is a fuel issue, then you can troubleshoot the fuel system. Until you know what system the problem might be in, you are just setting yourself up for dead ends and frustration.

    In Morocco I assumed it was fuel so I spent 4 hours trouble shooting one night. Turned out to be my coil. Spark was not on my radar. If I would have checked from the start it would have saved me 3 and a half hours, a lot of dead ends and a lot of frustration.

    </td></tr></tbody></table>

    When we pulled the fuel pump out today, the hose that connects to the end of the fuel filter is loose. I used the same hose that came with the CA Cycleworks fuel pump. It was in pink color in the box but it is now white. I used the 2 screw type clamps that came with the CA works pump. One clamp was used to secure the hose to the pump and the other to secure the other end of the hose to the fuel filter. I know that the OEM set up has 2 Oetiker clamps to secure the fuel filter. But the CA works hose is too big to use the OEM style Oetiker clamps.

    Any suggestions ?
  7. Hoots

    Hoots Long timer

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    +1

    You might want to go down the Tractive / RR path, but as a first step I'd get a suspension person to look at spring rates / re-valving - and to then set the bike up to your weight / riding style (static sag / preload / clickers front and back) - this will make a huge difference, and may well be all you need ...
  8. toniton

    toniton Adventurer

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    Hi, I have a problem with the speedometer of my KTM 690 enduro R 2009.
    When I turn on the key, the speedometer takes five seconds to turn on and then flashes the F1 with the problem number 92 (9 longs and 2 shorts). Anomaly in the circuit connecting the power supply control unit of the butterfly valve
    Problem number 24 (2 longs and 4 shorts), anomaly in the circuit connecting the voltage supply EFI control unit or the control unit of the butterfly valve
    Sometimes only appears the problem 92, but usually, the bikes turn on correct.
    Here is a video of the problem with the speedometer.
    <IFRAME height=315 src="//www.youtube.com/embed/-E2vggoDIEU" frameBorder=0 width=420 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>


    I hope it has an easy solution.
    My english isn't very well, please, try to explain simply to understand.
    A few days ago, I have problems with the wires on the battery. at least 6 or 7 wires were cut.
    [​IMG]

    And down the box of fuse, more broken wires
    [​IMG]

    But I correct all the broken wires. Then, I checked all the conectors and seems perfect.
    Before
    [​IMG]

    After
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  9. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    Yes....do NOT use the pink fuel line provided by CA Cycle as it is easily kinked and may not be suited for submersion in fuel over extended periods of time (re: previous info on fuel lines that are/are not suitable for submersion in gas.....Napa sells a 1' fuel line that is double-walled and suited for submersion ($20/ft :huh)

    The pink stuff may be submersible, but it kinks easily and that is enough reason why I replaced it within the hour of installing (checked to see if it was kinked and it was)....

    As for the clamps....it has been repeated here numerous times that FI clamps (screw type, but not garden hose screw type) are easiest to use that don't require voodoo to install/remove. They are available in different sizes from good auto parts shop.

    My $0.02 of wisdom :D



    Sent from my stubby fingers and this machine in front of me...
  10. ststrider

    ststrider some guy on a bike

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    does anyone know of a plug and play headlight switch that allows you to turn off the headlight and leave the daytime running light on?
  11. cyborg

    cyborg Potius Sero Quam Numquam

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    Thanks John :thumb Seems like we may need stronger ones?
  12. Yellow Pig

    Yellow Pig Allergic to asphalt!

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    No, but it's easy: Just cut the power wire to the low beam and put an On/Off switch inline. Done.
  13. Bill the Bong

    Bill the Bong Supern00ba

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    Oh shit. Should not have asked. There goes even more of my disposal income. Please name one of your nice machines after me.
  14. ktmmitch

    ktmmitch Long timer

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    Our Fork Kit for 300mm travel comes with longer piston rods, rebound adjuster tubes and longer springs. The springs are the correct weight, as the OEM ones are way too stiff.
    There are no valving changes, but with the extra 50mm travel there is more oil volume in the fork, and coupled with a 110-105mm air gap, this gives a much improved action.
    I personally have not changed any shim stacks on the later 2012-on forks, as the main problem with them is short stroke & stiff springs.
    The other advantage when we fit the Tractive shocks is that they put more pressure on the forks, so making them work more effectively, as the OEM shock is too soft on springing and damping.
    After just coming back from Spain we had 3 riders on 690's, and we were swapping from bike to bike to get a feel for the new Pirelli tyres we were testing for them. And one of the recurring comments was how well the 2 690's with the Tractive shocks were hooking up out of rutted corners, and by following these 2 bikes you could see the OEM bike "chopping" under acceleration out of rutted corners, whereas the Tractive shock was more supple, allowing the rear tyre to grip, and lift the front end clear of the ruts, much more controllable.
    I am hoping to get a set of these 3 types of shocks over to Don at KTM Twins in CA for evaluation on their tracks.[​IMG]
  15. BIG-E

    BIG-E AKA; Mongo-E, Sexy Grande

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    Hello Everyone,

    Okay, I have a quandary.. I installed a new to me Rally Raid set of evo1 tanks on my bike, (all the hardware was brand new,) After install, I fill all 3 tanks up to max, no leaks on my bike lift.:clap

    Next morning I pull the bike out to the street and gear up, I come back 10 minutes later and at least a half gallon of fuel was running down my street with more on the way. :huh out of the rear overflow.

    It stopped, and I thought it was just leveling itself, off I go thinking I have at least 5 gallons of fuel on board. All is good...

    I think I have a range of at least 200 miles, at 160 on the freeway, I done rund out! No light came on just nothing...

    I checked the front tanks and sure enough, I still can see some fuel inside way down low, can't get it in the rear or to go anywhere. My beautiful wify saves me with a gallon of gas, fires right up off I go.

    Sorry for the long post, but I am thinking either I lost more fuel than I thought, or the fuel isn't flowing.

    Why would I have lost so much fuel when sitting still and the rear just slightly lower than the front? Any suggestions??

    Thanks Everyone, Eric.
  16. MeinMotorrad

    MeinMotorrad Long timer

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    No low fuel level warning light probably means you didn't run out of fuel. Does the pump prime OK when you turn the ignition on?

    Have you got the clear/natural tanks or black. You can see how much fuel you really have with the clear ones - very useful. The petcock on the tanks them selves are above the bottom of the tanks, I'm guessing so silt doesn't enter the fuel lines.

    Do the RR tanks not have venting on the filler caps? They should have if they are the originals. The fuel coming out of the overflow sounds like a vacuum problem.

    When you fitted the tanks did you have the printed instructions? When you fitted the adapter to the bottom of the bike tank did you take the bottom tank bolt out and pivot the tank up - if so the quick disconnect to the fuel injector needs to be undone or you risk damaging it. Also if you did unplug the qd, did it click when you plugged it back together. There are reports on here of this qd coming undone becuase of contact with the frame etc. The fuel lines within the tank can get twisted when you refit the pump with the RR adapter fitted to the pump basket restricting fuel flow.

    Over tight zip ties securing the fuel lines to the frame might cause problems. You could check all the obvious places for fuel leaks on your tank install: where the fuel lines connect to the RR tanks, quick disconnect, the t junction, and the RR adapter thingy (also check it is securely fitted to the bottom of the tank).
  17. v8toilet

    v8toilet Nothing to see here.

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    I have a petcock on my EVO1 install. Until I burn 50 miles of fuel it stays closed or I get the same situation you experienced. You didn't have any leaks but the bike was off. Once it started running the fuel pump pulls some fuel from the front and once started gravity/siphoning took over. This combined with the fuel expanding from the heat of the bike is what I would guess caused the overflow. Close the petcock and open it when the trip ODO says 50. Maybe you can do it sooner I haven't tested it.
  18. v8toilet

    v8toilet Nothing to see here.

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    I haven't ridden a 2012 but the 2008 is extremely harsh backing off the COMP and Rebound completely helps but its still more abrupt than I would like.
  19. MeinMotorrad

    MeinMotorrad Long timer

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    What year is your bike? I think the spec has changed from previous bikes at least for the '12. When I replaced the pump and filter the oetiker clamps on the original fuel line were 10.9mm. The clamps and hose that came with the CAC pump worked fine for attaching to the filter - did you tighten it all the way? Guess you'll have to go and find a new clamp of the right size.
  20. bayarearider

    bayarearider Been here awhile

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    Mine is a 2010. I have the right size Oetiker clamps. However the hose that came with the pump is not able to hold the pressure. So I am going to replace the hose and also do way with the flter inside the tank. Instead I am going to get a NAPA 3095 in-line fuel filter and relocate it on the outside in place of the QD on the fuel hose.