New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. .chris

    .chris 690 Advenduro

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    111
    Location:
    Auckland, NZ
    Just whipped the rocker cover off and it appears everything is still there (phew).
    But the decompression shaft did side out as I took the cover off (possibly because the bike is on its side-stand. Would that be normal?
    I also notice the cam chain is SUPER tight, eg you can barely move it all. Is that how it should be?

    EDIT: just re-assembled it and tried to start with out the spark plug in (easy decompression check) and it ticks over ok now.
  2. Uller

    Uller Done with this BS

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    1,595
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    In a town, FU
    Found it. That took a while. I've had my 690 like this for the last two summers and now have over 4,000 mi. with it like this. The airbox does not move around at all and everything has been perfect IMO.

  3. Roostre

    Roostre Discombobulated

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  4. rdkyote

    rdkyote Adventurer

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    May 8, 2012
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    Colorado
    Anybody up for renting their KTM cable so I can remap. I have a 2012 with the akra can and am too lazy to take it down to the dealer. Or.... if you're in n. colorado and are competent enough to remap my bike for a case of beer let me know. :1drink
  5. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    San Antonio, Texas
    Here's how to do the Vapor installation Maurizio's way He used a Vector, but the installation would be virtually the same except for the tach input which is easy to do.
  6. Night Falcon

    Night Falcon Spilt milk makes me cry like a girlie girl :-(::

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    Cheers DJ :thumb
  7. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    May 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,732
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    In the mountains?
    No, this is not normal. The shaft should not slide out.. it should be held in place by the copper clip. If it slides out, it won't engage.. making it nearly impossible for the starter motor to turn your bike over.

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fUBStYkDruUbsRx7gZmR0SBYILFZFtAqMB2WQnAyRpM?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Gt_OTt8PVsI/UnSa9p8FdQI/AAAAAAAApY0/0SqwArwh6Z0/s800/Cam.jpg" height="603" width="793" /></a>


    You need to slide the cam out like you would if you were changing your valve shims in order to get at the copper clip. Hopefully it will still be on the top of your motor somewhere. When this happened to me, the clip stayed on the shaft but was pushed toward the lobe of the cam shaft. So it was not doing its job retaining the shaft, but it did not fall in the engine.

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HMUssuRKH70hyb46qvYFQDxDD3hCDR4CyvSE_NxC3oQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QMP37cbrWuI/UhfYSXWEMfI/AAAAAAAAkWc/WTcww_emP-M/s800/DSC00286.JPG" height="532" width="800" /></a>
    You can see where the shaft contacted my valve cover.

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/T6t6AGSPXWybTEVqiojxvTxDD3hCDR4CyvSE_NxC3oQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WYIsmKAoYIA/UhfYS2_Jo4I/AAAAAAAAkWk/c6EibJmcvd8/s800/DSC00287.JPG" height="800" width="532" /></a>
    The worn out clip. Luckily it stayed on the shaft.

    I would recommend replacing the weight, spring, screw and clip. They are cheap parts and it will hopefully save this from happening again. Any slop in the weight will eat through the clip.
  8. .chris

    .chris 690 Advenduro

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    111
    Location:
    Auckland, NZ
    Thanks, I think that is EXACTLY the problem, I will have a search for that pin tomorrow. And will order the replacements on Monday.
    My rocker cover has the exact same marks on it.
    EDIT: Found the clip, and promptly dropped it onto my messy floor and lost it, but one side of the clip was visibly worn.

    Thanks everyone for your assistance. :clap
  9. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer

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    So Chris had this issue with 65,000 Km. Noah, do remember the approximate mileage when you had the problem? just curious if it was around the same time.
  10. Velociraptor

    Velociraptor TrackBum

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    I just ordered some decompression parts. Not that expensive and good to have spares around just in case.

    Uller, your airbox mods are nice. I have not done those, but I just left the front bolts off. So the airbox is secured by the two back bolts and the rubber boot connecting to the throttle body. So far so good after two years.

    I am also running the RR EVO2 tanks so a different setup to yours. The RR tank kit comes with a small plastic vent box that fits into the right side of the frame. So the airbox still vents to that box. Also I made a SAS blockoff plate for the valve cover but kept the vent open and also routed that hose to the vent box.
  11. dad2bike

    dad2bike Retired! Cranky Old Fart

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    Location:
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    Uller-
    I have the same safari tank setup. I was considering doing your airbox mod.
    What are the major benefits to that? Is it just for quick access to the injector?
    Can you now do a valve check with the tank on?
    I figure after all the work of pulling the Safari tank, a few more bolts isn't much more.

    Also- Did you ditch all the plastic covers and just move the stock regulator to the left side?
    I was considering a little clean up of all that plastic as well.
  12. Katoom72

    Katoom72 Been here awhile

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    Jun 3, 2012
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    Think im gonna replace the clip every valve check. New copper clip every 10k ain't costly, it's a rather cheap but safe thing to do.
  13. Uller

    Uller Done with this BS

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    It is good to know that the front of the airbox doesn't drop if left unsecured. I guess that makes my mod overkill. I like that. :evil

    I haven't seen the EVO2 collector box.

    Ultimately, this allows me to work on the bike much easier when I am away. When I check things, change the oil, look at valves back at my shop I tend to take the tank off. It just makes it easier to access everything. Isn't that why the trellis frame is so cool.

    I can think of a few benefits. Most of them are for when you are away from the shop and removing the tank would be a major time consumer that you don't want to deal with. Without doing this mod, you have to remove the tank entirely to get to the two front airbox screws to get the airbox out and access anything. So, not only are you lying on the ground to get to the tank bolts but you are also fiddling with the fuel lines. In a best case scenario, that is probably 10 to 15 minutes of work to take off, then that time again to put back on.

    Possible Benefits:
    1. I have externalized my fuel filter. I can now access it very easily by removing only two screws and loosening the air box boot, as it now is directly below the airbox once that is out.
    2. Should I have any issues with the fuel injector, I can now easily access that too. Or really any running issues for that matter. I can access air, fuel and spark without removing the tank.
    3. Should I have issues with the spark plug, I can access it without removing the tank.
    4. Should I have a problem with a water crossing, everything I need to get to in order to drain water and get the bike going again is now accessible with only removing the airbox. (knock-knock-knock)
    5. If I have an electrical problem, I can just about get to all critical areas without removing the tank.

    I believe, if you really wanted to, you could get to the head and check the valves without taking the tank off with the airbox removed and the Safari Tank still on. However, I would think that you would appreciate the additional access provided by not having the tank there for that operation. Especially, if you are one of those people who always uses a torque wrench for reinstalling motor components.

    Edit: I went out and took a look, the back left head bolt would be a tuff one to get undone without a double-articulating socket adapter. Other than that, you have good access to the top of the motor, the only limitation is if you need to get into the side of it for installing a locking bolt or pulling the rockers. Thinking of that, it would block the ability to see the TDC markings and line things up properly. Maybe you could do that with a mirror???

    Regarding the side covers and R/R, I had my stock R/R fail on me and fry my brand new lithium battery. I replaced it with an aftermarket unit that is much, much better. Even though the R/R itself is the same overall size and bolt pattern, it has sealed connectors on the bottom and the wire sides of those contact the coil in the stock location. I have the tank and don't need the side panels to hold on the plastics. I also removed the collector box on the R side so, I don't need them anymore. It was just extra stuff in the way. I came up with the super simple mounting method on the left side for the R/R. It fits perfectly under the tank with optimal airflow, almost like it was supposed to be like this. :D I then simplified the wiring and have the R/R directly connected to the battery instead of running through the Starter Relay.

    I am not really sure if you could do this without changing the R/R due to the configuration of the stock wiring harness going from the L side of the bike to the R.
  14. dad2bike

    dad2bike Retired! Cranky Old Fart

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    Great info. Thanks Brad! :clap
    I can see me cutting those tabs at some future time. Maybe at the next valve check. I've never done the task myself. The PO did them just about 1K miles before I bought the bike. I'm thinking in the next few weeks I'll tear into the valves on my 950 & the 690. I have the Hot Cams kit that should cover both bikes.
    I too have my fuel filter external. I mounted it up where I can replace all from the outside.

    It was your post that has me thinking about the oil catch canister as a possible path for dust into my air box. I've sealed up all box seams with RTV. If I ditch the catch tank for a simple filter it removes that possible issue. A bunch of hoses too.
    UNI has a nice little foam filter with clamp that will fit right over the hose end. :D I picked one up to use on my Dodge diesel drip hose.
    Ditching the plastics & catch tank will help with cleaning up on top of the motor. We don't seem to get much wash hose water up there and it is always covered in crust. :evil
  15. dad2bike

    dad2bike Retired! Cranky Old Fart

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    How often are you guys changing spark plugs? I'm figuring to order one in and do that when I do my valve check. I think the PO did that about 3000 miles ago.
  16. Seth S

    Seth S Will _____ for _____

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    Jul 19, 2004
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    I think I put one in around mile 7500 and the old one still looked good.
  17. Singletrack_mind

    Singletrack_mind Cave Man

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    Aug 29, 2008
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    Save your self $20 and don't worry about it until closer to 10K miles
  18. Singletrack_mind

    Singletrack_mind Cave Man

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    Oddometer:
    477
    Location:
    Northern New Mexico
    Some helpful replies back there, thanks.

    If running a pod filter w/o an airbox decreases MPG by 10-15% I don't want to go that route. Fuel range is sometimes an issue for me as is.

    Someone asked at what milage the auto decompression devices are failing: Mine did not destroy it's copper clip, the pivot bolt for the fly weight backed out. This happened at about 25K miles on a 2008 bike.

    Since my head's still apart awaiting valve shimming, I will examine the copper clip.
  19. drunkenrich

    drunkenrich Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2011
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    Location:
    Thomaston, CT
    My 2010 ktm was acting weird today, took it out for probably the last ride of the year today, ran good all day then near the end of the day it acted like it was out of gas, hesitating. Stopped got gas, hesitation stopped. Then about 20 min later it shut off on me while riding, twice. The control screen was flashing and it wouldnt turn over, just chug. Turned key off then on and it was fine. Any ideas?
  20. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    I had problems about 65,000km. But, this problem is not from the clip itself. Its from the weight putting pressure on the clip. Rather than replace the clip every valve check, you should just make sure the weight isn't sloppy. Make sure the screws are tight. If the weight can pull on the shaft to the left side of the bike, its only a matter of time before the clip will fail.

    Every 50,000 km.