New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. Night Falcon

    Night Falcon Tiger Tamer

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    I am looking at replacing my already replaced speedo (under warranty) on my 09 as the digital display is failing. Been looking at theses : http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/vapor They don't have one listed to fit the 690 but I emailed Trailtech and they said they could probably get one to fit. I wanted one with a rev counter which the enduro type ones don't have. Not sure how the fault codes work though....more investigation needed.
  2. Noyah

    Noyah poser

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    Only one axel, you can't get asymmetry :)
  3. motoged

    motoged Been here awhile

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    In order to remove airbox, the front right side has a somewhat difficult to access screw....might be the one.

    Uller did a Dremel job (he LOVES to dremel) with the airbox so the airbox could be slid into position.... (not putting you on the spot , Brad :D)
  4. Singletrack_mind

    Singletrack_mind Cave Man

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    This is quite a coincidence: I just came to the thread with the intention of posting my recent experience so others could learn from it. My bike was doing exactly what you describe, and the auto-decompression device was the culprit. In my case, the pivot bolt for the flyweight on the cam drive sprocket backed out, and it was simply not working most of the time. I was really lucky it didn't entirely drop off the sprocket. As it was, the flyweight was out of line, and it's spring had come un-hooked.

    I was on a three day trip, and found that if I jump-started the bike off a truck when it was cold in the AM, I could then get it to re-start all day. As soon as I got the chance back at home I took it apart and had a look. The good news is that at least in my case, probably a little locktite is all it's going to take to fix it. Good thing I didn't let it go any longer though . . .

    I recommend you take the valve cover off and have a look.
  5. Singletrack_mind

    Singletrack_mind Cave Man

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    I am considering removing the airbox and would like to hear pros and cons from people who have actually done this.

    The main reason I want to do this is to provide better filtration. No matter what I do, running the stock airbox with a stock paper filter element is allowing too much fine dust into the engine. I have seen my intake valves loose all clearance in 3-4000 miles three times in a row now, and there is far too much visible grit in the intake tract. I have tried sealing the filter onto the airbox with duct tape, and greasing the intake boot, being very sure it is correctly seated on the throttle body each time I replace it. What I intend to do now is eliminate the airbox all together and just run a pod filter.

    One request: let's please try to avoid an argument over whether Uni or K&N is the better choice. What I'm really interested in here is if there are problems I will run into. For instance, does the lack of an airbox end up affecting engine performance? Does the ECU have sufficient latitude to provide proper performance if the airflow is less restricted? Is there an airbox pressure sensor that will confuse the ECU if it's just reading ambient conditions w/o an air box?

    I am also concerned river crossings will become somewhat more risky . . .

    Thanks for your input.
  6. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    Singletrack, This is the same thing that happened to me. When you get it back together, make sure the weight has not gotten sloppy.. make sure it is not able to put pressure on the shaft that would put pressure on the copper clip. Other wise the clip will fail shortly.

    1. Use some sort of sealant around your air filter if you keep your box.
    2. With a pod filter you will need to remap richer. You will get more hp but your mileage will suffer. Mine fuel economy suffered about 10 to 15% with this mod and remap so I went back to stock so I could run her leaner again.
    3. The pressure sensor is actually a temp probe I believe. There doesn't seem to be any issues running it out side of the air box.
    4. You loose a lot of clearance for water crossings. With the stock air box, your intake is just under seat height. With a pod filter your intake is about the height of the top of the front tire.
  7. rickypanecatyl

    rickypanecatyl SE Asia adventure tours

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    Hey Ronin - I noticed the '12 look like the 08's. Are you sure it's a different part and not just the same? If it works I really like it? I know this sounds goofy, but I ride a lot, alone at night and cool gauges make me feel.... not so alone!:rofl
  8. Uller

    Uller Long timer

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    So, I'm trying to find my post on the airbox mod (Thanks Ged! :cry) and I came across this. Maybe Pate was on to the broken bolts back in mid 2012. KTMmitch, do you think it would be good to incorporate something like this into the new linkage build?

  9. .chris

    .chris 690 Advenduro

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    Just whipped the rocker cover off and it appears everything is still there (phew).
    But the decompression shaft did side out as I took the cover off (possibly because the bike is on its side-stand. Would that be normal?
    I also notice the cam chain is SUPER tight, eg you can barely move it all. Is that how it should be?

    EDIT: just re-assembled it and tried to start with out the spark plug in (easy decompression check) and it ticks over ok now.
  10. Uller

    Uller Long timer

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    Found it. That took a while. I've had my 690 like this for the last two summers and now have over 4,000 mi. with it like this. The airbox does not move around at all and everything has been perfect IMO.

  11. Roostre

    Roostre Discombobulated

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  12. rdkyote

    rdkyote Adventurer

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    Anybody up for renting their KTM cable so I can remap. I have a 2012 with the akra can and am too lazy to take it down to the dealer. Or.... if you're in n. colorado and are competent enough to remap my bike for a case of beer let me know. :1drink
  13. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    Here's how to do the Vapor installation Maurizio's way He used a Vector, but the installation would be virtually the same except for the tach input which is easy to do.
  14. Night Falcon

    Night Falcon Tiger Tamer

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    Cheers DJ :thumb
  15. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    In the mountains?
    No, this is not normal. The shaft should not slide out.. it should be held in place by the copper clip. If it slides out, it won't engage.. making it nearly impossible for the starter motor to turn your bike over.

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fUBStYkDruUbsRx7gZmR0SBYILFZFtAqMB2WQnAyRpM?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Gt_OTt8PVsI/UnSa9p8FdQI/AAAAAAAApY0/0SqwArwh6Z0/s800/Cam.jpg" height="603" width="793" /></a>


    You need to slide the cam out like you would if you were changing your valve shims in order to get at the copper clip. Hopefully it will still be on the top of your motor somewhere. When this happened to me, the clip stayed on the shaft but was pushed toward the lobe of the cam shaft. So it was not doing its job retaining the shaft, but it did not fall in the engine.

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HMUssuRKH70hyb46qvYFQDxDD3hCDR4CyvSE_NxC3oQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QMP37cbrWuI/UhfYSXWEMfI/AAAAAAAAkWc/WTcww_emP-M/s800/DSC00286.JPG" height="532" width="800" /></a>
    You can see where the shaft contacted my valve cover.

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/T6t6AGSPXWybTEVqiojxvTxDD3hCDR4CyvSE_NxC3oQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WYIsmKAoYIA/UhfYS2_Jo4I/AAAAAAAAkWk/c6EibJmcvd8/s800/DSC00287.JPG" height="800" width="532" /></a>
    The worn out clip. Luckily it stayed on the shaft.

    I would recommend replacing the weight, spring, screw and clip. They are cheap parts and it will hopefully save this from happening again. Any slop in the weight will eat through the clip.
  16. .chris

    .chris 690 Advenduro

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    Thanks, I think that is EXACTLY the problem, I will have a search for that pin tomorrow. And will order the replacements on Monday.
    My rocker cover has the exact same marks on it.
    EDIT: Found the clip, and promptly dropped it onto my messy floor and lost it, but one side of the clip was visibly worn.

    Thanks everyone for your assistance. :clap
  17. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer

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    So Chris had this issue with 65,000 Km. Noah, do remember the approximate mileage when you had the problem? just curious if it was around the same time.
  18. Velociraptor

    Velociraptor TrackBum

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    I just ordered some decompression parts. Not that expensive and good to have spares around just in case.

    Uller, your airbox mods are nice. I have not done those, but I just left the front bolts off. So the airbox is secured by the two back bolts and the rubber boot connecting to the throttle body. So far so good after two years.

    I am also running the RR EVO2 tanks so a different setup to yours. The RR tank kit comes with a small plastic vent box that fits into the right side of the frame. So the airbox still vents to that box. Also I made a SAS blockoff plate for the valve cover but kept the vent open and also routed that hose to the vent box.
  19. dad2bike

    dad2bike Retired! Cranky Old Fart

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    Uller-
    I have the same safari tank setup. I was considering doing your airbox mod.
    What are the major benefits to that? Is it just for quick access to the injector?
    Can you now do a valve check with the tank on?
    I figure after all the work of pulling the Safari tank, a few more bolts isn't much more.

    Also- Did you ditch all the plastic covers and just move the stock regulator to the left side?
    I was considering a little clean up of all that plastic as well.
  20. Katoom72

    Katoom72 Been here awhile

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    Think im gonna replace the clip every valve check. New copper clip every 10k ain't costly, it's a rather cheap but safe thing to do.