Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by HighFive, Nov 22, 2010.
True. My option is cost effective, it's like $5 vs. the expensive of the smart charger.
As I recall, the only charger you can run through the OEM plug near the ignition switch is the spendy BMW one. CanBus won't tolerate others. That's why you need to run a pigtail with fuse, off the battery for other chargers. Powerlet makes a kit, BatteryTender includes a pigtail (maybe others do, also) or you can just make one up.
I agree with Shelion about trying to compare batteries. It's apples and oranges once installed.
Nope, incorrect. As I said my CTEK charger works fine with the CANbus. They also have much better charging and reviving algorithms than the overpriced BMW one. Even battery master Joel likes'em so they must be good!
Where on the Maintenance DVD would I happen to find the wiring diagram??
You won't find it as near as I can tell the hosers left it out....
It is in the Haynes manual.
Quick question the front reservoir on top of the handlebar Bobbie, is the top screwed on?
Is some sort of a wrench necessary?
If it is screwed on it is tight! Thanks
Originally Posted by HighFive
Bleeding the brakes is not hard, just takes time....be patient and approach it methodically. It is always wise to bleed the "whole system" when you change a hose. Air could get trapped anywhere (above or below your junction. So, I'd recommend you gravity bleed downward to fill the new line. Then, bleed upward (pumping oil in from the bottom bleeder at the caliper....all the way to the top.
I flush mine both directions several times, until I see no more air bubbles at all anywhere. Then, go ride it a while. Bleed it again. Ride....bleed it again. Sometimes this is what it takes, unless you have one of those fancy high-dollar vacuum bleeding machines....what I've never had the chance to try out.
p.s. DOT 4 on the F800.
p.s.s. Special Note: there is a tiny bleeder valve up on the brake lever perch which allows you to bleed the air form the piston pump chamber. This is wonderful addition. I didn't notice it at first, and had a hard time regaining my brake pressure after changing a line. After discovering this little outlet, and bleeding up thru it as well, VOILA, brake pressure returned.
Yeah... there is a stupid tool .... but there are options:
Thanx I totally missed someone had just asked same question.
I got it off just did not sound nice.
The nipple near the front brake reservoir I assume is used to purge air from system once system is flushed
What mileage interval do you guys typically lube your chain at?
The front master cylinder on the ABS bikes has the bleed screw.
For non-ABS it's not there ...
I've had issues getting the air out of the front system a few times...
I need to read the manual again, I think it basically says bleed the caliper, bleed the master, repeat...
Some folks have had good luck tying back the front brake lever overnight which seems to help bleed the system...
For the first 12k, I lubed it every 600 miles with some lube from orilyes. The stock chain lasted about 15k miles. I am now on a DID X Ring, and I am trying the dupont multi use dry teflon wax from lowes. I am doing thins thenever the chain gets pretty dirty. So, like every 1k of street, a little more often if offroad, and if I ride through heavy rain. The process I have been using for this is simply just wiping it off with a cloth (which is very easy and far less mess than an oil) and then spraying it down again.
They dont use salt on our roads here, so I see very little rust on the chain, though my trip to Idaho last weekend, riding in the rain on Teton Pass, chain and sprockets got pretty rusty.... I must not have had much wax on it....
For what its worth.....
I aim to lube (and clean) the chain every 500 miles or so. Sometimes more sometimes less. I got 17k miles on the first chain and it most likely would have gone quite a bit more, but I did not want to try it for a South American trip. I am about 15k miles on the second chain and it hardly seems used. Dave
Stock chain lasted 24k lubed once every 1000 miles or so.
Seemed fine, but changed it anyway.
New DID with Supersprox goes wonky within 600 miles.
Wonky = feels like the tranny is failing! Weird grinding sensation at launch.
Chain gets stiff links until lubed, then no problem
Oh well, now I lube every week (between 450-550 miles).
BTW the motor runs better then ever @ 26k!!!
Loving this rig.
Looking to replace the super-sweep OEM bars with some Pro-Taper Pastrana bars. Will the EVO bar accept threaded inserts, or should I go with the Contour?
I need to keep using handguards for dirt nap protection, so looking to see what others have done.
What can I expect from the stock tires on the 2012 f800gs on gravel? I plan to ride well-maintained forest service roads.
I find that they are ok...a bit squirrelly and nowhere near as nice as proper knobs.
I have zero off-roading experience and I was able to ride some gravel without too much issue. Make sure to turn off ABS and use the back brake...unless you have off-roading experience in which case ignore whatever I'm saying.
which stock tire? I believe they use the lowest bid,
My 09 came with Pirelli Scorpians, my best advise is to burn them off quick and get some good tires.
It's not that they weren't ok its that they weren't good at pavement or dirt.
I can recommend the Hiedenau K60's, for a 50/50 tire they really are good at both
I got some Scorpions too and I find them just find for the road.
Maybe I should rephrase my comment.
For the riding I do here in East TN, there are much better tires available than the scorpions. YMMV