New (to Me) 2000 Kawasaki W650

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by The Jerk, Oct 11, 2009.

  1. WikdBeemer

    WikdBeemer Older but still riding

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    Well yes actually, I have serious doubts when ordering things I haven't seen in reality, been stung buy the shonks before and well, you know...
    It's just that there are no big accessory shops in my area and the city ones can only stock what they know they will sell.
    There's a lot more on the internet - some are obvious poor quality and the rest look OK. :shog
  2. The Jerk

    The Jerk Bring us some fresh wine!

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    I think what Speedo66 was saying was that Lucas was known for many things, but quality was never one of them. :lol3
  3. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

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    Let's put it this way, I understand the British penchant for warm beer was brought about by Lucas refrigerators. :evil
  4. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    So the folks with cracked rear fenders. How many miles till the crack happened? My 2000 has over 8k miles already and has not shown any signs of cracking...not sure if the previous owner ever changed it.
  5. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    80
    So I picked up the shims today. The "Problem Solvers" that I linked to earlier really did the trick. I put them in a vice and cut them in half with a hack saw (very easy to cut through, took about 2 min to do both sets). These Problem Solvers are just thick enough to give you as tight a grip as the stock 1" bars would. I originally had bought some EMGO 7/8" to 1" shims, and these DID NOT work due to not being thick enough; just a heads up to anyone in the same position.

    I also purchased some short turn signals and a Lucas Style Chrome LED tail light from Dime City Cycles. Shipping is taking longer than expected due to a gold Biltwell Helmet that is backordered for my girlfriend. Tank is getting finished painted this week. Pics to come! Thanks for the help.
  6. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate

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    West of Seattle . . .
    Mine had about 10K miles when I rust-proofed and re-inforced the fenders. The rear fender did not show signs of cracking--and I didn't want it to. So--preventative maintenance.
  7. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer

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    Lucas electrical, the prince of darkness.:rofl
  8. The Jerk

    The Jerk Bring us some fresh wine!

    Joined:
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    Last night with the help of local legend mechanic JD, I did the chain and sprockets on the W. I used all Kawasaki parts including the chain. In addition to the new chain and sprockets, I also bought a new lock washer for the front sprocket. The manual didn't say it was necessary but it's cheap and since the old one has been bent and unbent an unknown number of times, I decided to just replace it out of an abundance of caution.

    The stock chain is an endless type which means that the swing arm has to be removed to replace the chain. Most people would probably elect to replace the chain with an open type and cut off the old chain in order to avoid removing the swing arm. However, the swing arm bearings are supposed to be greased every two years so I figured I'd go ahead and take care of that as it's unlikely it's ever been done before.

    The reason I did the work at JD's place is because he has an air wrench. I had previously tried and failed to bust the front sprocket nut loose with hand tools. You really need an air gun for that one unless you're the Hulk.

    I didn't do a whole photo work up of the process because it was getting dark and because my host was generously staying up late to let me work and I didn't want to take longer than I needed to.

    I found that the service manual gives a really good description of how to do the work. Removing the swing arm was actually easier than I thought, just watch the rod that activates the rear brake when removing/installing as you don't want to snag it and bend it.

    The swing arm bearings and pivot shaft were in good shape. They all got a nice fresh coat of grease. Rear wheel bearings also looked and felt to be in good shape.

    Not too bad a job, just time-consuming. Important to just take your time and make sure you torque everything properly as you put it back together and keep track of all the little spacers and things for the rear wheel and the swing arm.

    Weird tools needed: the front sprocket nut requires a 27mm deep socket and the swing arm nut is a 12mm Allen.

    Here's a pic from the festivities:

    [​IMG]
  9. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    80
    I've just received a lucas style tail light and some short aftermarket turn signals to install on the W650 and I've got some wiring questions for anyone who has done this.

    - So I removed the seat and began unbolting that stock brake light assembly so it was loosely hanging there.
    - Now I followed the wires that leave the tail light up to a plug connector where the tail light and turn signals receive power

    Do I just yank the wires out of that little black plug connector and replace them with the wires from the new parts? I ask because I tried to yank one of them out (very difficult) and I didn't see how the new wire ends would fit into that plug. Do I splice the new wires into that plug connector by soldering?

    If anyone has any guidance it would be much appreciated, I'm fairly crap at this kind of stuff and I'd rather ask first than potentially damage something (which I have a habit of doing). Thanks so much for all of your help!
  10. pumps

    pumps Adventurer

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    You don't specify but I assume you are moving the signals forward to where the reflectors are located? Off of the tail light assembly?
    Under the seat where they are connected unplug them. There will be I think if I remember correctly a red (brake) , blue (tail) , black (ground), green (left rear signal), gray ( right rear signal). The black ground is split inside the harness cover to go to each stock signal. What I did was remove the stock tail light assembly and signals. Pulled the oem harness down and up through the fender under the seat. You'll have to bend the clips on the underside of the fender a bit to get the harness out. CAREFULLY split the cover off of the harness to the point just before it goes into the fender under the seat. ( I say this because I accidentally cut my red wire in two.) I used scissors. Separate your wires and remember which is which. I fabricated some new short black grounds to go to the newly moved signals. I got eyelet connectors that were large enough to fit on the back side of the grab bar handle bolts. Soldered them and put on some heat shrink. That was my grounds. The green and gray wires I shortened and soldered connectors on the signal wires and the wires from the harness. Connected and tested. The original black I made a single ground to the tail/brake light. You'll have to make up some connectors for the new tail light and the old ends. Lastly I used 1/2 heat shrink to replace the foot or so of old harness cover and put it back where it was.Fed down into the fender, put into the clips on the underside and back out to the tail light. Be sure to put the grommets around the holes where the harness passes through the fender. Hook it all up , bolt in place.
    On the W650 Riders yahoo group there is a good write up. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/W650riders/
    And on page 56 of this topic there are good instructions on how to drop the fender , a must. Page 48 too. Hope this helps.
  11. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    Ok great. Thanks for the info. I just didn't realize going into it that all of the wires should just be soldered into the existing connector. I'm no stranger to soldering, so it shouldn't be a huge job.

    To clarify, i bought this lucas style tail light:

    http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vinta...s-polished-lucas-led-taillight-225-1007p.html

    and these turn signals:

    http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vinta...-mini-oval-turn-signals-blinkers-25-8350.html

    I'm moving the rear signals to the spot underneath the seat where the reflectors are and then just replacing the front signals with the shorter ones but keeping them in the same position. You can see in the photos in the links the style of connectors that the new lights have. I don't really see where these would plug into anything, so from what I've read it looks like you just cut them off and solder the wires into the existing setup.
  12. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    80
    Ok, so I gave the lights another go this evening. I got the new turn signals wired up no problem and they work as they are supposed to. The issue that I'm having is in regards to the new LED Lucas Tail Light. I never got it to turn on (running light or brake light). Is there an issue with using the LED light as opposed to the regular style light? I asked Dime City when I purchased it and they said it should work fine with the stock setup. Any ideas?

    The light from dime city has 3 leads coming from it. Black/Red/Yellow. The stock light has 3 leads coming from it, Black/Red/Blue. I tried black to black, red to red, and yellow to blue, and various other combinations but could not get it to light up.
  13. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer

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    LEDs should work fine as long they are 12V.
    If you hook up the stock light does it still work? If not you might have blow a fuse.
  14. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    The stock light still works when I hook it back up, so it's not a blown fuse.

    The only thing I can think of is that I didn't actually strip the wires and twist them together. I just unplugged all the little bullet connectors from the stock harness and loosely fitted the new LED light's leads. They definitely were making contact, but it certainly isn't as strong a hold as a solder joint would be. Maybe this effected the connection. It worked for the turn signals though, so who knows.
  15. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer

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    Try hooking the new taillight up to a 12V source like your battery. I assume the black wire is ground.
  16. Kentucky

    Kentucky Long timer

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    I have a beautiful chrome 5 Star luggage rack set up for GIVI Monokey case posting this morning in Flea Market if anyone is interested. These are no longer available for the W according to my information. It is in perfect shape.
    Barry
  17. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    Dumb question, but since there are 3 leads coming from the light, (running light, brake light, and ground), would it matter if the running/brake lead went to the positive or negative terminal on the battery? I wouldn't want to blow out the light by some stupid mistake.
  18. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer

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    Did you get a wiring diagram with the LED light?
    I would connect the black wire to the ground and then the other wires to the positive on the battery one at a time.
    I don't have my service manual handy so can't verify the ground wire but to be safe you should check the out put of the bike's wires with a volt meter using the black wire as a ground (negative). That should make you more confident that the black wire is a ground on your LED light but without a wiring diagram who knows.
    If you can take the LED light apart to get to the light socket to trace the wires then you could know for sure.
  19. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    Alright. Simple mistake on my part. The ground lead coming from the new Lucas LED tail light is YELLOW not BLACK. A simple switching of those and it lit right up. Stupid mistake, but there was no diagram included with the light. I'll no longer assume that black is ground. Thanks for all the assistance! Still waiting on this tank and then I'll post some photos!
  20. Spike77

    Spike77 Adventurer

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    PM sent