New (to Me) 2000 Kawasaki W650

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by The Jerk, Oct 11, 2009.

  1. rulle_retard

    rulle_retard Adventurer

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    I have the dynojet stage 1 needles on my bike and a 2-1 exhaust with original air box. When I installed the kit with the clip on groove #2 the bike was almost impossible to drive, it was running to lean. Like when the tank is almost empty, but all the time! I then moved the clip down to groove #3 to make it richer, now its running like a champ. I change them right before the winter arrived so I havent had the chance to test it "full out" but it feels more "smoother" and like it has more "power". I doesnt remember how many turns out my fuel mixture screw are thou... think it is about 3,5-3,75
  2. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    What are you talking about when your saying "clip to groove 2, groove 3, etc." Is this a part of the dyno kit? Thanks.
  3. rulle_retard

    rulle_retard Adventurer

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    Oh, sorry! On the dynojet needles you can either lower the needles (by placing a clip on a higher groove) or raise the needles (by placing a clip on a lower groove). Unlike the original needles that only has one "stop" on one side of the needle. Here you can see the grooves (on the left side of the needle) and the clip on the #2 groove.
    http://faq.ninja250.org/images/1/16/Jetneedle-horiz.jpg
  4. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    Ah perfect! Thanks for the clear description. Would you have installed the kit if you weren't running aftermarket pipes?
  5. rulle_retard

    rulle_retard Adventurer

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    Hmm I dont really know, doesn't know if it will run better with dynojet needles and stock pipes. But I guess it will! Its a very simple procedure to install the needles, you don't even have to take the carbs of the bike so it will take like 30 min to do it!
  6. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    Right on, thanks for all the tips. I think if I got the kit I would be swapping the jets as well, so the carbs would have to come off for that, but at least the needles you can adjust without too much hassle.
  7. Pigford

    Pigford British

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    Its just a bit of a fiddle getting at the inner screws on the carb tops.... so go easy and don't round them off..... you may consider fitting some allen hex head screws as this would be safer/easier whilts tuning.
  8. Bar None

    Bar None Candy Ass

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    zwish,
    A common mod on the W650 is to drill holes in the baffles in the stock mufflers to open her up a bit. (reduce back pressure) Makes a sweeter sound but not too loud IMHO.
  9. 929bladerunner

    929bladerunner Adventurer

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    +1
  10. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate

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    I suspect mine has the baffles removed; I'll have to compare it with a stock Dubya at some point in the future. Looking up the pipe, I don't see the two tack welds that are supposed to hold the baffle. The pipe looks single-walled at the end. I can see a baffle screen about a foot up the pipe but it's not at the end of a "removeable" baffle.

    Mine is very quiet at idle, but seems much louder on hard accelleration, especially above about 3500-4000 rpms.

    I like mine the way it is, no intention of changing it.
  11. chupa88

    chupa88 Adventurer

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    Hey guys,

    I finally got my hands on a 2000 W650! I was looking for one of these a year ago when I got my license but as you all know, they aren't easy to find any more. Since I couldn't find one, I decided on a Suzuki TU250X. I rode it for 2600 miles over the past year. The TU is a great bike but I felt I needed a bit more power for two up and highways. So on a whim, I hit up craigslist and found this W650 just 18 miles away from me!

    It has 9200 miles from the original owner. All parts are stock including the tires and mini ape bars. I got it for $3500. It's not pristine. There are some rust or corrosion here and there. I'll have to put some new tires, handlebar, seat and some up to date maintenance in it. But I'm psyched! I'll be back to bug you guys with plenty of questions!

    Chupa

    [​IMG]
  12. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate

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    Congratulations on the me bike, Chupa, and welcome to the Dubya ward of the asylum!
  13. Bar None

    Bar None Candy Ass

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    chupa88,
    Congrats
    She looks nice to me.
  14. greer

    greer Long timer

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    chupa---

    I sure like that blue and silver! That'll be a pleasure to polish and shine. Come back with more pictures when you can.

    Sarah
  15. chupa88

    chupa88 Adventurer

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    Thanks all! By the way, anyone in the Boston area who is knowledgeable with wrenching and wouldn't mind teaching me some stuff? I've looking for some weekend or adult ed classes on moto maintenance but haven't found anything.
  16. GoonerYoda

    GoonerYoda Hot Dickens Cider

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    [​IMG]





    Welcome to the club! :D
  17. chupa88

    chupa88 Adventurer

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    Ok, I'm getting new bars. Most of you guys say the euro bars from Bikemaster works. But how about drag bars? Drag bars are a bit lower right?
  18. Bar None

    Bar None Candy Ass

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    chupa88,
    Does your W have the stock higher handlebars? If so I would suggest that you ride it that way for a while before changing the bars or anything else. I've had three W650s over the years and never changed the handlebars on any of them.

    I ride a lot on gravel/dirt and think the higher bars are just right for that environment and the street. Make sure the stock high handlebars are set up level, some I see are cocked up.
  19. pjensen641

    pjensen641 Been here awhile

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    I think someone in this thread mentioned that the controls will not clear the tank. I don't have drag bars, but I was doing some planning an layout of the bars on my bike and I could definitely believe that they would hit the tank.

    The "superbike" bars are slightly lower and less pullback than the "Euro" bend in both Emgo and Bikemaster. Any lower than that and I think you would have to go with clubman bends or Hyde "M" bars. In both cases they bend forward first before they bend back, which increases tank clearance. If I don't get the right position out of the superbike bars I just picked up, I will probably go clubman or M.

    It took me about 100 miles to figure out that the stockers are way to high for me. We have a lot of wind here and you have to pull yourself forward with a fair amount of pressure to overcome the wind force.

    BTW, remember to get 7/8" bars and then buy or make shims for the top triple clamp and lever perches. I bough some 1" OD X 0.125 wall aluminum tubing and made my own.
  20. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate

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    I tried drag bars, the controls did in fact hit the tank. I use the superbike bars-stockers were too high for me too. But Barnone is right-try the stock bars first. Everybody's different, so see what works for you.