New (to Me) 2000 Kawasaki W650

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by The Jerk, Oct 11, 2009.

  1. Duelsporter

    Duelsporter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Walnut Grove, GA
    Nice find! With low miles like that, I would seriously consider leaving it totally stock. These bikes are starting to appreciate in value a little and a low-mileage stock example will probably be more desirable in the future.
  2. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,886
    Location:
    West of Seattle . . .
    Welcome to the Asylum, speedo! :freaky
  3. Uncle Ernie

    Uncle Ernie Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,978
    Location:
    Asheville NC
    Beans. It's your bike now- do whatever you want. Othrewise, you'll be on pins and needles worrying about it- Your investment. (bleh)

    Hasn't come up yet, but many rear fenders start to crack and I think putting a Brit-style tail light on there lightens up the weight that vibrates back there. Also, lower bars are so much more comfortable. You can use 7/8 bars by making shims. I just cut some aluminium tubing for that. If you want shorter cables for appearances, Z-Power (England) is pretty much the way to go on that. I don't think dealers here carry cables (at least the shorter ones).
  4. Duelsporter

    Duelsporter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Walnut Grove, GA
    I wasn't suggesting what he should do, I was saying what I would do. :rayof
  5. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,939
    Location:
    Cin City, OH
    Thanks!

    I had a similar thought of keeping it stock, or at least no change that couldn't be bolted back on. I don't put that many miles on per year, so it will stay low mileage for a while.

    I have an old Lucas tail light sitting around and changing over to that was one of my ideas also. Too much visual spam back there. I'll try and fabricate a bracket and plate holder, unless someone sells something like that. I saw one on a German site, anyone know of a vendor in the US? Also would like much smaller aftermarket turn signals front and rear.

    As far as the bars, it looks like in addition to adapters for the clamps, they would also be needed for the controls or brake master? What type of alum. tubing was used?
  6. Duelsporter

    Duelsporter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Walnut Grove, GA
    No, the standard wide 1" bars taper down to 7/8" at the end. The stock controls will fit any standard 7/8" bars.
  7. Uncle Ernie

    Uncle Ernie Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,978
    Location:
    Asheville NC
    The tubing was just stuff I had in the basement; Maybe 1 or 1 1/4" tubing about a mm or 2 thick? Shims are necessary for the clamps and the lever perches. (Going from memory here...) Can't remember if I had to crop those plastic nubs that position things or not- but I usually do. I get my bars from BikeMaster for about $20. BikeMaster is carried by some in-house catalogues like Parts Unlimited. -or Tucker Rocky- I forget which.
    Same for bullet turn signals. They usually run around 20-$30.
  8. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,886
    Location:
    West of Seattle . . .
    You can get shims that work really well for the bars and the controls from bicycle shops. Quality Bicycle Parts makes a variety of shims; the ones that work for 7/8" - 1" are the BMX ones. They're ribbed aluminum and they grab and hold the bars and controls very well. QBP may call them "Problem Solvers" but I can't recall the exact term. The ones I used were to adapt a regular bicycle handlebar to a BMX stem.

    Unless you run into a tech who understands what you need, you may have to look in their QBP catalog. Or you can look them up on line and get the part numbers, but Quality sells only to dealers, not you and I. But it's worth it to help out the good LBS's.

    Second the Bikemaster bars. That's also what I did. They work really well.
  9. wonderdog

    wonderdog n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1
    Location:
    Wichita Falls, Texas
    Bikemaster bars definitely are the way to go. I originally tried Royal Enfield bars, but they were too narrow for the control mounting. They sure looked good, though.


    I'm really enjoying all the great response about what is in my opinion a greatly underestimated bike. I'll admit, I got mine mainly for the looks, but the way this bile works makes me wonder why I would ever want anything else. Just a very satisfying bike to ride!

    Oh, somebody mentioned a place in Germany for accessories. I have gotten some stuff from Silverneck and had great results. (w650shop.de):slurp
  10. McJamie

    McJamie STROMINATOR

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,413
    Location:
    Courtice, Ontario, Canada
    If I could buy a production version with lights and all, I'd sell everything else in the garage.
  11. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,886
    Location:
    West of Seattle . . .
    It certainly is a "looker." Sweet.
  12. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,939
    Location:
    Cin City, OH
    Doesn't look like it would be hard to reproduce. Those pipes are available from www.w650shop.de, only the tank needs to be painted. Put a small tail light and headlight on it, and remove all that's not necessary. Aside from suspension and tires, what else is there? Shorting the fenders, removing airbox, etc. I think the hardest part would be getting up the nerve to start.

    I started working on my new bike today, but nothing like that. Just bolt off stuff. Took off the tail light/turn signal mess and replaced it with a fabricated bracket and an old original Lucas tail light.

    Removed the reflectors and the front turn signals. Found some smaller turn signals, similar in style to the originals, but 1 1/4" diameter as opposed to the stock 3", and I'll order those. Will move the rears to the reflector brackets. Hopefully that will keep the rear fender from cracking.

    I found the specs on the stock export handlebars, 2.7" rise, 5.5" pull back.

    The Bikemaster Euro bar at 2.4" and 4.8" is pretty close and I'm going to try that. Same place also has a nice vintage looking chrome horn, which at 113 db should be louder than the stock horn, and it's only $14.

    Are there any problems on this bike related to changing the bars? Any hidden things I should know about? I thought I read somewhere about having to drill out something to do with the throttle inside the bars?

    Any info about this would be greatly appreciated.

    Has anybody removed the center stand? If so, what's involved with that? Best way to deal with the spring? The bike in the photo above certainly looks a lot cleaner without it.

    I love the looks of the Canadian tanks, black with the red spears coming back and the gold pinstripes. Looks like they pretty closely copied a Triumph paint scheme in addition to everything else. Be great to find one of those. Anyone know of any that might be for sale?

    Thanks

    Steve
  13. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,886
    Location:
    West of Seattle . . .
    The only thing with the bars, where people mention drilling holes, is that the throttle body and the clutch bracket have locating pins. When you use other than stock bars, you either have to drill a small hole in the bar for the locating pin, or grind off the pin. I decided to drill the bar; worked fine with no issues. There are no wires or cables routed throug the bars on the Dubya.

    I installed bars with much less width and pull-back. So the clutch and throttle cables are much too long. Rather that hassle with getting shorter cables I just re-routed the originals. Not a big deal, just something to be aware of.
  14. Duelsporter

    Duelsporter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Walnut Grove, GA
    Good luck. I've been keepiong my eye open for one for years. One came up on E-Bay some time back, and it went for big bucks (much more than I was willing to spend). It would be easier all the way around just to have yours painted.
  15. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,939
    Location:
    Cin City, OH
    Thanks for the info on the handlebars, just what I was looking for. Which bars do you have on your bike?

    As far as the black & red tank, that's what I was afraid of, just too good looking.

    Close copy of this paint scheme on an original old Triumph. Scroll down to #635 to see it. Rest of the scenery isn't bad either.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=400341&page=43
  16. Duelsporter

    Duelsporter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Walnut Grove, GA
    I still have the stock wide bars on mine. I don't mind 'em at all. :thumb

    Somehow, I couldn't get past post #633! :wink:
  17. HarveyMushman

    HarveyMushman .

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2002
    Oddometer:
    16,389
    Location:
    Virginia, USA
  18. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,939
    Location:
    Cin City, OH
  19. Blownranger

    Blownranger Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Vero Beach,Florida
    Speedo great find! 198 mi Wow,I thought mine with 2700 was the most
    Cheeriest left...

    Someone suggested not to do any mods,leave it stock.(hard to do)

    Mine was completely unrideable stock,after 30 miles my butt was completely
    numb and was getting a pain on top of my shoulder!
    (your 2001 seat is a vast improvement over the 2000,the 2000 has a rib or
    raised piece under the padding between the drivers and passengers area
    of the seat,I`m 6`3`` and because of the hi bars (mini ape hangers) was
    forced the ride farther back on the seat or directly on the rib that numbed
    my arse!)
    Immediately ordered a Corbin K/Q only one I knew was available for Ws.
    This helped but the real fix was to go for lower bars! Wow what an improvement!
    The forein manufacturers think the Americans love ape hangers so thats what
    they send us.The OIF 71-79 Triumphs were proof of this.

    Like I said lower bars a must! (easy cheap mod,save your stock bar for resale)
    Another must is to move your rear turnsignals (get smaller LEDs) to your
    licsence frame.Your rear fender is prone to crack below the stock ts location.
    Another(I haven`t done yet) is to replace the front tire.The ribbed Bridgestone
    is for the vintage look only,Avon,Metzler,etc. will dramatically improve handling
    ,especially on grates,bridges.

    One more easy and essential "fix" is to block the vacum hose or manifold to
    the exhaust port side of the head.This can be done with a bolt,ballbearing,or
    plate.This eliminates the very annoying(to me) popping!!!

    That said I`m hooked on Farkles and always looking to "improve" or add something new for my shiney TOY....


    Again congrads on your new bike,you are going to love it!

    JR...
  20. Blownranger

    Blownranger Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Vero Beach,Florida
    From Speedo,
    ""is there anything in the stock bars to prevent bar end mirrors""

    No ,I gotem on mine. Love mine,they are Sterlings made in UK.Not cheap
    (around $170. US) but very high quality,polished stainless.
    Cheap barend mirrors look cheesy.
    I put a stainless buttonhead allen bolt in oringinal holes.

    JR...