Newb question: Replacing R100gs handlebar--lube the throttle handle?

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by smorgasgeorge, Feb 10, 2011.

  1. smorgasgeorge

    smorgasgeorge Adventurer

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    Sep 25, 2010
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    Portland, OR
    Put on a Protaper ATV Hi handlebar on my 93 R100GSPD. Had to grind it down a little make it work. Now I've got exposed aluminum under the throttle handle and at the center clamps.

    3 questions:

    1. are the elements going to eat up this exposure such that i need to repaint it?
    2. do people customarily lube the underside of the throttle handle, and if so, with what? the handle is plastic.
    3. should the throttle spring right back to rest when released? right now i have a slow return that i think means a poor installation on my part.

    thanks for answers to admittedly dumb questions.
    cheers
    #1
  2. The Raven

    The Raven Banned

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    1. Yes, how fast depends on where you live
    2. Don't know, others will know
    3. Yes, it should spring right back. Safety feature should your hands be removed from the throttle in a crash.

    #2
  3. DaveBall

    DaveBall Long timer

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    You may need to take apart the throttle handle and clean up the old grease in there. I find it goes bad with age. Readjust the tension on the cable at this point and put new light grease in there, and button it back up.

    Never have had to lube between the plastic and the handlebars. Are you new bars the same height and width as the old ones? If larger either way, you may be stretching the cable to the point of not allowing the stock springs to return to normal.
    #3
  4. Uncle Ernie

    Uncle Ernie Long timer

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    Most bars are 7/8, whereas BMW controls are 22mm. that's why you have to grind a little off to get them on. I have a small tub of Bel-Ray grease, and I do put a light coat on the bars. I assume they're relatively smooth?

    I always assumed aluminium oxidized in such a way that really ended up protecting the metal from the elements. You should call the manufacturers customer service line- but I don't think you need to paint it.

    Any hang-ups with the cable route? I understand you're not supposed to lube new cables because they're lined with Teflon, but find out if you can.
    I also wonder about the return springs, but if the cables worked with the old bars, that's probably not the problem.
    #4
  5. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair

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    I did the same but went to the fat bar Raptor bend to get some extra height. Now wish I'd just got taller roks risers & flatter bars (asthetics).

    I also had to grind the bars to get a fit & my throttle is also a little slow to return. I used a light grease on the throttle tube. Don't lube the cables. Check the cable runs to make sure that you haven't re reouted tem in such a way to cause a hang up. Some people pay good money for friction screws for their throttles that achieve the same result. I'm happy with the way the throttle reacts.

    Given the bars are aluminium alloy they'll oxidise on the surface layer where you have ground back. But they are not like steel bars which continue to rust once the surface layer is exposed. I made sure that where I ground down would be covered by controls or grips. I don't think you'll need to treat this. There are a stack of parts made from aluminium alloy that are left raw, including a brake caliper adapter on my bike.
    #5
  6. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

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    What they said, plus - I put a little white lithium grease under the plastic throttle tubes on any bike I work on for myself. It doesn't seem to bind up in subfreezing temps (Yeah, I ride outside of Floriduh sometimes) and doesn't attack plastic throttle tubes. And it or any other lube should help forestall or even prevent oxidation where you ground off the finish under the throttle tube.
    #6
  7. tommcbride

    tommcbride Long timer

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    From MY experience:
    #7