newer airhead front wheel bearing removal

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by datchew, Dec 30, 2006.

  1. Anorak

    Anorak Woolf Barnato

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    Where is the steel ring that the legs bear on so they don't mar the wheel that is used with the Kukko puller? Here is what the American equivalent looks like.
    [​IMG]
    #21
  2. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

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    source for this, FB?
    #22
  3. Anorak

    Anorak Woolf Barnato

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    Snap-On blind bearing puller. The price for that set is in the if you have to ask realm.
    #23
  4. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    The procedure for removing bearings in the snowflakes - and I'd imagine the newer styles as well - involves heating the hub to 200 boiling - until spit sizzles. This will expand the hub enough that the bearing will likely just fall out. The mounting area in the hub is machined a few thousandths smaller than the bearing so it really grabs - you definately DON'T want that race rotating in there. The wheel can get pretty warm, especially with hard use of the brakes, and the aluminum will expand under those conditions.

    If the bearing is pulled without heating the hub first, the race will drag aluminum and expand the hole. And then repeating the proces driving the new race back in...The bearing won't fit as tight from then on.

    I haven't read what Snow Bum or others have to say on this, but I'd recommend it highly.
    #24
  5. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

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    Suddenly i'm seeing that scene from Heat where they broadsided the Brinks (Snap-on) truck to get at the contents....
    #25
  6. Possu

    Possu de-nOObed!

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    If you've got access to a Mig Welder, cut a pice of steel bar to length & weld it to the inside of one bearing track. The heat expans the aluminium wheel & the welded in bar gives you something to push against. Once you've removed one bearing & the inner spacer, there's normally enough residual heat in the wheel to allow you to easily knock out the other bearing.

    Reheat wheel, tap bearings in with a suitably sized drift, not omitting the spacer between the two bearings.

    Some wheels (Triumph in my case) have sealed bearings plus a separate outer oilseal that first needs removing as there can be a bearing retaining circlip hiding behind the oilseal. No amount of heating & beating will remove the bearing unless the circlip is first removed, don't ask how I know... :augie
    #26
  7. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    I'm sure he doesn't. I emailed him and asked him when I had trouble a couple months ago at the beginning of this thread.
    #27
  8. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    Lemme know... I can help. I need a nice large toolbox and some other goodies. :lol3
    #28
  9. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    Remember the Alamo!

    Off the top of my head, i seem to remember reading something about the inner spacer being NON-REMOVABLE and that's why you can't just pound the things out from one side, spacer and all.

    When i meet up with Anton to fix my engine, i'm gonna replace my bearings as well. He's got the special tool. I'll take pictures.
    #29
  10. sigpe57

    sigpe57 Been here awhile

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    "The procedure for removing bearings in the snowflakes - and I'd imagine the newer styles as well - involves heating the hub to 200 boiling - until spit sizzles."

    If it has steel liner(see picture), you don't need to heat the hub. If it has a steel liner, heating the liner will not expand the metal. You can just pull it out.
    #30
  11. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    sigpe57 - I seem to recall, now that you said that, the newer wheels are different. I'd like to know when they started putting a steel liner in there.
    #31