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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by rhinoWERX, Oct 31, 2010.
The Givi bags and mounts for the '11-'13 models runs about $850
From what the dealer told me, this time they are not Givi.
I'm waiting for a quote on a '14. I am still in doubt about how much should i pay extra for the modifications they brought to the bike. KTRC and power modes are not really my thing (but i don't mind'em), but i like the idea of having a longer 6th gear and hard panniers that do not leave an ugly support when removed.
How would you compare the passenger carrying ability of the VFR and Ninja 1000? I've done some two up touring with a VFR, and wouldn't want to make my girlfriend put up with anything less comfortable than that.
Otherwise, the Ninja 1000 sounds like a great updated VFR substitute for me too.
800 miles now. I have added the M4 exhaust, Vstream screen, z1000sx stickers and a GIpro. I need to install a fuseblock and wire up my heated grips, GPS and pig sniffer. Last I am waiting on my Sargent seat.
I love the exhaust!
Got a Z1000SX this spring to replace my Bandit 1250. Have ridden Bandits since late 90's and love them but I wanted something slightly more towards the sporty side. Can't stand the ergos on the pure racers but the N1K is spot on for me! Looks amazing, rides great and with the Akras it roars beautifully! I love it!
i would be very interested in hearing your comparison of the bandit 1250 and the z1000sx, especially since i ride a kawasaki z750s which is the baby brother/de-tuned version of the 03-06 z1000 engine.
thanks in advance for any thoughts you care to share.
I have always loved the torque of the Bandits but I was surprised when trying the N1K for the first time. It has the same amount of torque! OK, ca 1000 rpm higher in the revs but quite a grunty little engine. 140 vs 100 hp is also noticable.
The N1K also handles much better even though I have troubles getting along with the handlebars. Can't seem to find the perfect position when going through the twisties or on the track. Working on it, though.
The ergos are better on the Bandit, mostly due to more comfortable leg angle. Comparing stock seats, it's better on the Bandit but not by much.
To me they are on opposite ends of the sport touring spectrum, the Bandit towards touring and the N1K towards sport.
I don't regret the change one bit! Maybe just a little for pure sentimental reasons. The N1K is so much fun while the Bandit is a very sensible and "mature" choice. I tend to ride more aggressively with the N1K, for good and bad...
Hello everyone, I'm new to this thread but not this site. I have n1k that is equipped with givi bags that I use for road touring
ahak, regarding the bars on the N1K, have a look at the Apex adjustable clip ons. I put them on my N1K after finding the stock position uncomfortable. You won't acheive much drop in the bar height (without modification to the fairing), but you can significantly improve the angle of the bars. Coming from supersport and superbikes I found the stock angle and sweep of the N1K stock bars to be weird. I was able to acheive a more natural slope and pull back using the Apex adjustable clip ons.
Here's a thread on riderforums.com that I posted pictures regarding the Apex clip ons with a comparison to stock (http://www.riderforums.com/3rd-gen-z1000-z1000sx-ninja-1000/75579-handlebars-ninja-1000-a-2.html)
what about rear sets?
I see there is not enough room to flip the shift arm 180 deg and convert to GP shift
Looks interesting! Anything to keep in mind when installing them?
I have no problems with the stock bars except on full lean, especially right hand turns where the right hand wrist gets pretty f*cked up trying to roll on the gas at apex.
Are these the right ones?
APEX clip ons
You'll have to get the riser clip-ons (4" height adjustable) and not the gp version (fixed height). Due to the limitations of the bodywork and tank shape a pair of fixed height gp clip ons would cause too many issues at full lock side to side.
I've got mine set as low as possible without causing interference with the fairing/tank. The result is only slightly lower than stock position when looking at the inside height of the bars, but angled well downward toward the outside end of the bars...a more track biased type position.
Thanks, mcbagpiper! That sounds good! How hard are they to adjust? I mean, is it simple enough to have them more straight for touring and adjust them for a more sporty position when needed?
The height, sweep or pull back of the bars is easily adjusted (just loosen a couple of bolts then re-position and tighten). As for the angle of the clip on, although it's adjustable in several increments you can't really change it once selected b/c the impact of the control installation (i.e. switches, throttle pin).
The stock bars and related controls come off the bike pretty easily, you'll spend most of the time getting the initial angles and positions set before drilling to install the controls on the new clip ons. I used the greatest down angle position available when setting mine (there's a pin in the clip on bar that inserts into the available holes in the riser clamp, IIRC 15 possible positions) and I haven't felt the desire to change it back to a flatter setup, even for touring.
For me it was the down angle of the bar that finally removed that weird stock feeling.
Thanks! Great info. I will look around to see if I can find them over here in Europe. Sounds like they are what I'm looking for.
Bought my '11 N1K from a local dealership that had just announced it was closing doors back in July. Bike had 2600 miles, a few surface farkles (yosh slipons, sliders, tail tidy, etc.), and looked spotless--no signs of hard use, laydown, etc.
My arm was broken at the time of purchase (friend rode her home for me), but when I finally rode her (maybe 20 miles total, arm still not healed fully), I smelled coolant at a stoplight. I got home, put her in the garage, came out the next morning, and noticed a spot of coolant on the floor, maybe 1/2 cup or so. I wrote it off as a slight overfill at the dealer when they did the trade-in maintenance on her, or maybe a bit of air in the system, and she hadda burp.
I've still only put about 500 miles on her (60-70 hr weeks at work), and she's never leaked on the ground since the first time. But I still smell coolant at stoplights. The level in the reservoir has gone down a slight bit, nothing indicative of a big leak tho.
I know I'll need to peel the fairings off and look for signs of leakage at the connections, but with the long work hours, that could be awhile.
In the meantime, just curious if anyone else has had an issue with coolant leakage/fumes...
Got any warranty with it? Have a dealer take a look.
I had a small coolant leak when my bike war relatively new. If I remember correctly an internal seal near the water pump had failed.
My leak was down on the bottom of the motor just in front of the toe shifter. If you shine a light up there you will see a very small weep hole on the bottom of the pump. It has been a while but that is how I remember spotting it. Smelling coolant burning and seeing it come from the weep hole. Small amounts on the garage floor.
Sounds like mine was a smaller amount than what you are describing. Not sure if you will find the same thing but this was a simple fix just had to wait a week for parts. No problems since.
Hope this helps!
People talk about a weep hole leak on new klr's that goes away??
Just read that rhe 14's have an overdrive 6th gear along with other upgrades. Does anyone know how much ic an overdrive?