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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by valvecrusher, Mar 17, 2008.
You can still get OEM decals from bike bandit.
The listing title is 01-03 SUZUKI GSXR600 750 1000 REAR SHOCK gsxr 600. Looks identical to the one you put on your bike. I typed it wrong, its was GSXR600.
Same issue with my bike traced and soldered every connection, checked pulser fly wheel and stand switch ... final verdict i replaced my CDI.....
So it's like night and day? How is the off road handling?
For now, at least. Bought a used carb off of ebay and rebuilt it. Left the slosh thingy out since I dont use this thing for serious off-roading and thought that maybe it could be jamming or something causing the needle valve to malfunction. Seems to be working fine so far..use the petcock at shut-down though just in case.. Got the big Acerbis tank and front and rear fenders mounted - had to relocate the radiator etc. Heck, can prolly go 500 miles on a fill up I'd bet..:) Will try to get some pics of this thing-waiting on a right side cover to arrive for it. The HID H4 lamp with the aftermarket cowling is like night and day. Very bright.
Thanks but just an update...i called and they said they stopped carrying them. they have a couple stickers but none of the important ones...only a couple "honda" ones. suuucks.
Honda NX 250 Upside Down Fork Swap
A few words about this project before the actual how to part begins.
I bought the NX250 after reading thru this and other forums on what a great bike it is. Found one on CL for $140 pretty much complete except for a few
plastics. The biggest regret was not checking with DMV on back license fees before getting too far into it. Turns out is was still on the books and
cost me $505 to get clear title. Live and learn. Anyway a new CDI and it runs dandy.
After riding it for the first time I was not impressed. The front end had horrible rebound damping and was very rough over sharp edge bumps. Seriously
considered a WR250X SM but the money wasnt there. Hence the fork change. I had already swapped the rear shock and that made a big difference.
I am not sure if this swap will work with all the stock bodywork, so youre on your own in that respect.
Please dont flame me if you disagree with some of my methods or procedures. There is more than one way to do anything, some better than others. Im
not an engineer or machinist, just a retired fireman with a home shop that consists of a couple of grinders, a drill press, vice, cut off saw, sawzall
and a wire welder.
Note: If you are not confident in your welding or machining skills, by all means get help. Your life could be on the line (or the pavement).
I wanted to keep the stock gauge cluster as one of the requirements of the swap as I like the having the indicators.
I took pictures thru out the process but missed a few so PM if you have questions.
DISCLAIMER: You undertake any modifications at your own risk and I am not in any way responsible or liable for any modifications you make or attempt to
List of parts:
o Honda cr80/85 Showa USD forks
o Honda CRF150R (or aftermarket) fork springs (.36 kg compared to .24 stock)
o CR80/85 15 mm rear axle and nut
o CR80/85 upper and lower triple tree
o CR80 caliper and brake line (although later changed)
o NX250 lower triple clamp
I chose the CR80 forks because they are real close to the length of the NX forks and RaceTech makes anything you could ever need. Their calculator said
I needed .36 kg springs and that is the stock stiffness of the CRF150R springs, $10 on ebay.
Begin by putting the bike on a sturdy stand and removing the complete front end. My bike still had the ball steering stem bearings so the first order was to replace them with tapered roller bearings.
Next up was to trial fit the CR trees in the steering neck. Damn, the CR stem was too short, problem # 1.
I then realized stem bearings on both trees were the same diameter inside and out,(thanks Honda) so If I could swap the stems, Id be in business.
Knocking the stems out of the lowers was not much of a problem, but pressing them back together proved a different story. Ended up taking it to a machine shop and he charged me $10 to press the NX stem in the CR lower. Took 20 tons to put it back together so I dont think its coming apart
Next a small tab had to be cut off the upper tree and the holes drilled and tapped for the ignition switch bracket.
Next up was the steering stops and ignition lock. I wanted to keep both and it was just a matter of adding material to both stops so the original stops would catch. Once you get the triples mounted you can see how much needs to be added to each.
A wet rag in the steering neck prevented damage to the races. The stops, locks and ignition switch worked like factory.
The ignition switch mount has to be ground to mount flat to the top triple for the lock to work,
The CR uses a 12 mm front axle and the NX uses a 15 mm axle. It just so happens that the CR80 rear axle is 15mm and is exactly the right length, ya
gotta love Honda and their endless parts bins.
I bought a 15mm drill bit, squared my drill press table to the chuck and bit and had no problem drilling the front axle hole to fit the 15 mm axle. If
you dont have the equipment or dont feel comfortable drilling the legs, by all means take it to a shop and have it done. Dont ruin a $100 fork leg.
Sorry I forgot the pics.
Next up is getting the front wheel to fit between the legs. The NX wheel is wider than the CR wheel so the left side NX spacer and the right CR leg
need to be trimmed. I wanted to use the stock speedometer to that had to be taken into account also.
Surprise, Surprise, Surprise, the wheel bolted up, spun freely and is within 1/32 of being perfectly centered.
By far the biggest challenge has been getting the front brake mounted and working to my satisfaction. I wanted to use the stock NX caliper with the
twin pistons, but after working two days trying to fabricate a mount I gave up on that idea.
Next I adapted the CR80 single piston caliper. That was east as all that needed to be done was weld a small piece ¼ inch plate to the existing mount
and drill and tap holes to line the pads up with the larger diameter disk. Didnt seem to stop as good as I would have liked, but I may not have given
the new pads time to break-in to the used disk. After some searching, I found a dual piston caliper from a Buddy 150 Scooter that looked like the stock
one but with a steel mount. Parts are readily available for it so thats whats on it now. Throw you over the bars if you yank too hard on the lever.
Basically all that was left to do was route the speedometer cable and brake line and mount the fork guards.
Riding impressions; I've only had a chance to put about 20 road miles on it but the difference is well worth the effort. Much smoother ride and
handling is much improved. I didn't measure the wheel base before or after so I don't know how much it changed the rake and trail, if at all. Can't
wait to get it on some fire roads (got a CRF250X for serious dirt) and see how it does.
Thanks for your patience with the long post. Maybe rear disk break next?
I'm glad you sourced a decent brake caliper after all
looks awesome, but also a tonnn of work; I've heard of a way to do it where you take a late 90's XR250 fork set, lower triple and stem, and have it pressed into a CRF230 upper triple
and apparently it bolts right up otherwise?
Great write up and I like the idea of a good set of fork on the NX.
Also the harder it is the greater the rewards.
After you get some miles on the bike let us know more about the handling and brakes.
Huh? What? Big Acerbis tank? What tank are you using and we definitely need pictures!!!!!
+1 on the great fork write-up. Nice to know that's out there as an option!
I would like to know this as well!
that is sick stuff captD, try and ride and tell us how it works
as it looks like a serious improvement
and yes please do tell about this acerbis tank
The only one I could locate that was even close to making it work was a tank for a '94 NX 650-or a '92 maybe? Its right at 6 gal or so. Its pretty much a rig right now..really need to improve its mounting up front on the main frame as it sorta just lays on some foam and toweling right now. Had to "grind away" some of tab for the rear mounting. Seat fits..but not perfect. Ended up grinding a little too far on the tab, but found this neat plastic bonder that has worked well for several months now-no leaks. Put the right side cover on today. If it was a clear day I'd get a pic or 2. Tornado watch right now though..