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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by valvecrusher, Mar 17, 2008.
I think it could have been this
If temp's are warm and bike has been running within the last 1/2 hour, Sometimes longer, you may be able to start without choke. Most other times, you would need the choke to start. ( Cold Engine )
I hardly ever use the fuel shutoff during riding season, unless I don't think I'll be riding for more than a couple of weeks. Then I shut fuel off and run until engine uses up the fuel in carb.
Just remember to turn back on when you ride again.
Another common thing overlooked if the bike dosen't start, check the kill switch!
It can get turned off by accident, one of your friends or a passer by.
If bike isn't going to be run for a month or more, put Stabil in the gas tank. Good insurance!
Like mentioned in previous post, my 1990 NX has not had any carburator work since 1993, when I bought it with 3200 miles on it. A good testiment to proper storage practices.
What model is that pic of?
I am the most recent proud owner of a slightly beat and mostly complete 1989 NX250. I've put about 1000 miles since I got it. I don't have any pics to post but I will post them when I get them. It wouldn't run without the choke when I bought it and was missing its skidplate but the rest of the pieces were there. Suspension was shot, headlight support tweaked, etc. Plastics have been broken and repaired by the previous owner. It's pretty decent looking up close other than paint on the frame and wear around the footpegs. Anyway, while experementing with jetting I got real tired removing and reinstalling the carb after the 8th time. After I found jetting I was happy with I had to tackle the idle mixture screw adjustment. I cheated a little. At work I have often used a piece of flexible tubing placed in a cordless variable speed drill to lap valves in cylinder heads. I used this trick to turn the mixture screw without disturbing the carb and with the engine running. First remove the vent tube from the left side of the carb. It's a short piece maybe 3 inches long that connects to a plastic T fitting on the other end. This tubing is the right size to slip over the mixture screw and if its still flexible enough can turn the screw. If the tubing is too flexible it will just twist up in knots but if it's kinda stiff it works great. Mine was too stiff and was flared on both ends so I trimmed it short, grabbed it with a pair of needlenose pliers, and pushed the shortened piece over the mixture screw head. I then used the pliers to rotate the tubing thus turning screw. I would imagine that this trick wouldn't work if the screw is too hard to turn or if the head is buggered up but it worked great for me.
how many turns for the right mixture?
3 turns out for mine. I'm running a #40 pilot jet, a #140 main jet and raised the needle 1/2 a clip position using a shim. Idle misture settings will vary based on jetting and other variables, So 3 turns out may not work for everybody.
Thanks for the input! Yeah I believe my carb is fine because it idles very smoothly and has great power and acceleration after the engine is warmed up. I guess my problem is I haven't been using the choke even after it's been sitting a few days in the garage.. will start doing that now.
Another "problem" I've run into... my back tire needs replacing but the odd rim size on the NX250 makes finding tires difficult. Right now it has bridgestone tw40 tires on the back. What are the other tire options I have for the NX250 that come in the stock size?
Quote: "Another "problem" I've run into... my back tire needs replacing but the odd rim size on the NX250 makes finding tires difficult. Right now it has bridgestone tw40 tires on the back. What are the other tire options I have for the NX250 that come in the stock size? "
My 1989 NX had a "Duro HF904-51 130/90S-16 " on the back when I got it.
Seems to handle ok. I may put one on my 1990 NX next year when current tire will need replacing.
So far, I haven't found any sub's for stock front. ( Bridgestone TW-39 90/100-19 55P )
Stock rear (Bridgestone TW40 120/90-16 63P )<!-- / message -->
If you want a 80 dirt/ 20 street tire, a Kenda k760 trackmaster II is pretty aggressive. They come in 90/100x16 and 100/90x19.
If you want a 50/50 tire, the Shinko 244 a very good tire and comes in 3.00-16 and 2.75-19. It is also very inexpensive.
If you want a 20/80 tire, go with the tw40/tw39 combo. Those Trailwings are pretty good street tires.
After pulling my brush guard and seeing how dirty and chipped it gets, I decided to try to make something a little more durable.
Here's what I came up with, made from 1/16" aluminum sheet. It is bent so-as it does not touch plastic guard. At least it should protect the area directly behind the tire "kick-up"
I would have made it wider, but didn't have a wider piece of aluminum. Also, bending in two directions, I would have had to cut and bend more wierd angles. Will see how much it makes a difference. I may experiment with thicker aluminum and try different bending in future.
great summary of the tire choices Joel
we should use this for a guide on the front page
How long will the Bridgestone TW40 tire last riding on mostly pavement and not riding very aggressively? The current tire on my bike is pretty bald and the bike has 13,000 miles, I've only put on about 500 miles since I purchased the bike.
I've just over 6,000 miles on my TW40 in 2 years and 3 months. The front TW39 has much more thread with same milage.
Mostly road. 90% secondary paved 10% dirt and trail.
I like to ride between 30 and 55 MPH ( enjoying the scenery.)
I'm around 200 lb's and carry probably 10 - 20 lb's ( sometimes )
Here's what they look like now..
Thanks for this post. I will probably pick up a set of shinkos.
Thanks for the pictures and the mileage - when I purchased my NX250 used it had 12,500 miles on it. Since then I've put 500 miles on it and my rear tire is completely bald now. There is absolutely no tread left except for on the side part where it never touches the road. I've just ordered a new TW40 tire and it should be here in the next few days. My bike had a brand new TW39 front tire when I purchased it and so far it is showing little to no signs of wear. It almost leads me to believe that my rear TW40 tire had 13,000 miles on it :huh
Quote: Thanks for the pictures and the mileage - when I purchased my NX250 used it had 12,500 miles on it. Since then I've put 500 miles on it and my rear tire is completely bald now. There is absolutely no tread left except for on the side part where it never touches the road. I've just ordered a new TW40 tire and it should be here in the next few days. My bike had a brand new TW39 front tire when I purchased it and so far it is showing little to no signs of wear. It almost leads me to believe that my rear TW40 tire had 13,000 miles on it
If you do any off road riding, be carefull. I tried to use a little to much gas going through a mud hole. I found out the hard way, "If you let the mud dry, and brush them, Mesh Jackets can be put in a washing machine".
That rear tire, didn't have much grip going through the mud.
I don't do much off-roading at all, maybe a dirt road here and there and a few hard packed trails is the extent of my off-roading.
The rear OEM trailwing that was on my '89 NX,
had around 13,400 before i replaced it, according to the odometer.
The front OEM trailwing on mine lasted until 20k when it was replaced with the Shinko244, early in this thread.
That 244 lasted until 35k, when it was replaced with another 244. I had a brake failure which i believe might have shortened the life a good bit on the front.
The rear OEM tire was replaced with the 17" XL wheel, and runs ChengShin C858, which gets around 5500 miles before it's totally slick.(90% road)
Traction is great offroad, it's smooth on the road, and it's cheap. I got the last one(6x bulk) for $35 each in 4.60x17.
The 244 front and C858 rear is the cheapest combo i could find, and works great on, and offroad.
When i run out of C858's(long time)i'm going to try the 244 rear with a 244 front.
your mileage may vary!
I never liked the Trailwing(Deathwing) traction in any offroad situation, and it was barely withstandable on the paved road.
You just can't push that tire without some slip, or sometimes, a great deal of sliding issues..
Found a frighteningly clean '89 NX250 with 4,700 miles at my local dealer for $1,999. I'm normally not one to buy a 20+ year old bike from a dealer, but these are so hard to find and this one's in great shape.
I'm thinking I can probably get it for $1,800 out the door. Any thoughts? Too much for a bike this old, even though it's clear that it's not been abused over the course of its life?
I looked at a Tengai a few months back (what is it with me and old, rare dual sports?) at a dealer in the bay area. They wanted $1,400 and it was an absolute pile. So I'm thinking the price on this NX isn't too far off.
I wouldn't use miles as my sole means of judging an engines condition.
A Philips screw driver and you can have the speedo cable off in about the time it takes to sneeze.
And a speedo unit that old, I wouldn't be surprised if a drill can turn it back.
Compression is what I'd use... B/c what good are low miles if the oil was never changed?