NX250 Thread -- official ADV owners manual

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by valvecrusher, Mar 17, 2008.

  1. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    349
    Location:
    Germany
    The NX250 cylinder (and the XL350/600/NX650 and some XR600/650 models) got 11mm diameter (see below). The Xr250 master cylinder has 1/2 inch (12,7mm). At least the one I got. So if you take a xr master cylinder, pulling the brake lever will be harder in order to get the same brake power, but it will not improve it. Something that may work is an oversize kit from EBC. Since NX250 And XR600 share the same brake calipers, you can take a XR600 280mm brake disc http://www.jcmotors.com/p-29365-ebc...-crf-nx-xr-125-600cc-models.aspx#.T96uooE-2Vk


    [​IMG]


    Thats an example for an 1/2 inch master cylinder (Xl250 degree)

    [​IMG]
  2. Jacl-Kampuchea

    Jacl-Kampuchea Booze Merchant

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2010
    Oddometer:
    788
    Location:
    I see Drunk People.
    I replaced mine with a new xr250 master cylinder not too long ago as the old one was shot. Works fine and I can still lock up the front wheel at will ( not that I want to be doing so too often! ).
  3. SaDoW

    SaDoW Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    80
    About supertrapp

    If you decide to put it on it is important to know how many disks are inside
    Is it more “free” (with fewer disks) or not? And then you must re-tune the carb accordingly

    And if necessary re - jet of course you must know what supertrapp you will put on
    Quiet core?
    Race Core
    Quiet Race Core

    And adjust accordingly ONLY THEN you will understand the difference not only in the sound but in acceleration and top speed...

    Be aware IF someone will use the race core supertrapp the mixture if using 38 -145 and 1.5 turns is VERY POOR on gasoline the bike goes like hell in acceleration but… not very much gasoline

    The start of the sweet point is between 2.5 and 3 turns & 1/4 of a turn

    But re tune the carb is a pain in the @s$ believe me I know....
  4. fikse

    fikse All-season-rider

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    Oddometer:
    88
    Location:
    Norway, between lakes and fjords
    gforcephuket, thanks for answer :-)

    Since last time I've got time for riding a little. Nice weather and a nice bike. Perfect combo ;-) Ill guess youre quite happy with the weather where you are (well, except for the rainy times, of course), but here now its summer, and Im happy its dry roads and I only need one layer of wool under my leather suit, not to freeze ;-)
    Ive been thinking a bit, and mostly certain I will not go for anything but "the best", a complete set of suspension, suited my wheight, from Hyperpro. Its quite some money, but I have a damaged backbone, and in need for a relative comfy ride. A bikerfriend of mine told me he had "converted" to this Hyperpro on his rather new BMW-bike, and he describes the suspension now as a Citroen - driving in the skies. That sounds interesting to me!

    It must be lovely to have the possibilty to get crafts for that low price :-) Here in Norway its in the complete opposite side of scale. One hour at a bike-garage now is approx 1.000,- NOK, or $170!!! And I know a few garages here where they talk "bibblish", almost as Thai is for you ;-) Like when I told my KTM-garage; this and this (and this and this) electric things will not work properly in freezing temps. I offered them a video, who showed the trouble. "No-no, we do not need (to use the extra 2 minutes) to watch the video, we perfectly understand the problem. We will have a look, and discuss with central KTM". My fool, I trusted them. When retreiving the bike, they said "couldnt find any fault, are you sure its true?". This after 10 days at the garage. I asked them if they had testet by putting the bike outside in the winter-weather. "Why should we do that.. We have tested it in the garage, no faults now". Dooh.......!

    AFAIK it is only the miniDuke (125-200cc) thats made in India. The other KTM-s I belive still are made in Austria, with its european quality. Ive been working a little on a Austrian made KTM, and I liked the quality and solidity. Not equal as Honda, someplaces better and someplaces not as good. But generally good. And they generally have very nice components as brake-suspension-etc! So please do not let my story scare you from looking at the 690.

    :-)
  5. fikse

    fikse All-season-rider

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    Oddometer:
    88
    Location:
    Norway, between lakes and fjords

    Once again, thanks alot for your thorough description Scrambler66

    Ive just had a thorough service on my stock brake: new sealings and fluid, sintered pads from EBC. Still dont like what I get. Im used to quite some sharper stuff. Within this summer Ill hope the oversized one will sit on my bike :clap
  6. SaDoW

    SaDoW Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    80
    Do i have to remove the Oil pump to remove the cam chain ?

    clutch is removed

    the nut that hold the cam chain removed

    but it seems i can't remove the cam chain unless i remove the Oil Pump under it

    is this the case ?



    or is something else and i am close to make a terrible mistake ???


    thank you
  7. PTC

    PTC Turd polisher

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    317
    Location:
    masshole mofo
    Shadow, stop. Go to cmsnl.com
    type in your bike and look at the parts fiches. This way you know what your working with.
    the cam chain either has a masterlink or it needs to be broken apart if no masterlink. Are you changing the chain? Please do some study first.
    Also try dansmc.com to learn about this stuff. Good luck my friend.
  8. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    543
    Location:
    San Diego, CA

    Wrong. You do not break the cam chain and there is not masterlink.

    Remove the right side cover, remove the clutch, remove the locknut and gear off the crankshaft. You also do need to remove the oil pump.

    I just did this today. Then I split the cases and removed the crankshaft. Very easy engine to work on.
  9. SaDoW

    SaDoW Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    80
    ok so i do rermove the oil pump ok thank u also

    there is a gasket behind the oil pump i must change that also i believe?
  10. PTC

    PTC Turd polisher

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    317
    Location:
    masshole mofo
    SORRY... shoulda looked before i spoke. stupid whiskey. carry on...
  11. fikse

    fikse All-season-rider

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    Oddometer:
    88
    Location:
    Norway, between lakes and fjords
    Try single malt next time. Ive heard its more "correct" :norton:evil
  12. muddyrabbit

    muddyrabbit Lost Boy

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,908
    Location:
    Fugawee Land.
    I am back for more advice on mods to our friend CrazyJill's NX250.

    You may find this quite shocking, but the original rear shock is shot. So we are swapping in a GSXR shock this weekend. Looks simple enough. Next up, since she is kinda tall, we (she) are thinking about the XR250 front fork & wheel swap (followed by a 17" rear wheel). I saw the post where someone swapped the triple clamps & steering stem with the forks, but looking at them only being 1mm larger diameter I am thinking about just boring our the clamps to accommodate the forks. Any thoughts?
  13. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    543
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    Yes, a paper gasket behind it and some o-rings that I would also recommend changing while you are in there.

    Are you changing your cam chain tensioner also? I think mine failed, the chain was still acceptably tight (in my opinion) and it slipped on the crankshaft, stripping out the crank gear and bending both exhaust valves. Now I get to swap cranks and rebuild the head. Fun!!!
  14. SaDoW

    SaDoW Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    80
    yes i have already a new chain tensioner

    to avoid the tensioner problem such as yours ( damn it man bad luck) i put a bolt with 2 nuts just touching the spring so if the tensioner spring
    goes bad the bolt and the 2 nuts will stop it

    You said paper gasket and o ring... damn.... dowe know numbers for the order? I mean the oem number
    thanks
  15. RollingJ

    RollingJ The mud in your eye

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2010
    Oddometer:
    236
    Location:
    Bastrop, tx
    I have a 91 xr250l I am parting.

    I'll let go the 21" wheel and the entire front end (forks, triples, spacers, axle, brakes (rotor is warped and master and slave need rebuilds) for $175 +shipping.

    That front wheel alone is $75 +shipping and will swap right into my NX (I have raised the fender and modded the fork brace).

    Adding a 17" rear and a 21" front brings the ground clearance up and balances the bike nicely.
  16. Keisler

    Keisler n00b

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    7
    Location:
    Smoky Mountains, Tennessee
    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a '89 NX250 as an upgrade over my '93 XR250L. I am having a great time with this machine, and I enjoy it a lot more than my XR-L. Here are a couple of pics from a recent ride to the Smokey Mountains' Cades Cove National Forrest in East Tennessee. My friend that got me in to dual sport riding has a XR650L. We have been going on 100+ mile rides this summer and having a great time. No trailers for us.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks to this thread, I made the upgrade to the 17inch rear wheel. I shod them with the newly released Kenda Big Block tire 100/90R19 front, 130/80R17 rear. They are excellent tires, and I highly recommend them for both off road and street/hwy riding. I've had them up to 65mph and find them to provide a smooth and relatively quiet ride. And in the curves they stick well. I did the Tail of the Dragon (313 curves in 11 miles) after off road and was really pleased with the tire.

    I'd like to ask some advice for a few mods I am looking to do, and see if anyone might be interested in some new fairings for the NX and AX-1:

    Plastics Upgrade to Carbon Kevlar
    I've found a firm in Europe that has tooled up the NX and AX fairings, and I've been working with the technical salesman, Dimitris, to put together an order. The fiberglass runs $380 for a complete kit (headlamp bezel, cowls, side covers, front fender, rear fender) in gel coat, ready for paint. They will do them in Carbon Kevlar for $650. I think both prices are really good. Budget permitting, I would like to do the Carbon Kevlar because they will be very strong. And they will look nice with the black carbon against the orange kevlar in weave.

    Is anyone interested in purchasing a set? It should save on shipping. If we were to get perhaps 5 sets in total, we could get a discount of 10%. Shipping for one set is $100 to TN USA. I ship UPS daily and can get the parts separated, boxed and shipped insured from my shop. There is no profit in it for me. I just see that the NX250 community needs these parts like I do.

    And here's cool thing ... we can get the AX-1 style at the same cost. Note that the AX-1 headlamp, left and right cowl are not interchangeable with the NX250. You'll notice the AX-1 cowl panel ends just after the side vents. And the lamp bracket and assembly is different. So for us NX folks there is more involved in the AX-1 swap than just the fairings. I do like the twin headlamp design better because I expect we can get lamp housings readily adaptable, whereas the single NX lamp is obsolete.

    REAR Suspension Upgrade
    Has anyone checked the '91-96 XR250 rear shock to see if they could work? I have a '93 XR250L and the shock is completely adjustable for spring height/ride height, and it has a remote reservoir with adjustable control on damping. The SV650 shock doesn't look to have any dampening adjustment and a limited range for height. And the GSR shock requires air box cutting which I don't want to do.

    FRONT Suspension Upgrade
    Is there a definitive or best upgrade for the fork springs? Part number, supplier?
    And what is the best oil to run? weight, supplier?

    Seat Upgrade
    Has anyone sourced a well made seat cover that grips? My '89 blue seat is slick. I would like to get a Corbin but that would be expensive.

    Thanks for putting this thread and community together. Perhaps one day the NX/AX-1 machine can have its own sub-forum here where all of the know-how can be sorted out and easy to find, with sticky link. But I'm glad there is a good community here. I would like to ride with anyone visiting or living here in East Tennessee, so send me a PM.

    Cheers!

    Shafi
  17. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    543
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    15152-KL4-405 Gasket
    91303-KK0-003 O-ring
  18. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    349
    Location:
    Germany
    Hi Shafi,

    great bikes - I like the red XR250. It’s a pity that there was never a XR250LC with a pimped NX250 engine (let’s say with 32 hp) - that would have been a dream bike. So I build my own, unfortunately without the 32 hp (sofar :evil)

    [​IMG]

    I doubt that the XR250 shock will fit - way to log. The stock length of the NX250 is 321mm, which is very short for a dual purpose. That’s why shocks from other bikes will not fit. The maximum length you will get into the NX is 327mm – or you will have to start grinding at the swing arm linkages, which I wouldn’t recommend. So if you would like to go offroad with your NX, a shock from Hagon, Wilbers or Workshocks is a must.
    A shorter shock from a NTV650 on the other hand fits perfectly and provides still enough way of travel for an occasional gravel pad.
    Concerning the fork springs, I tried a couple of them. The White Power springs are now sold under the new label of Promoto. They are ok, but still too soft for my weight (ca 80kg). So I tried Wirth springs, which I consider better than the Promoto/White Power, since they are harder.
    But the best of the bunch i.m.o are the Hyperpro http://www.hyperpro-shop.de/epages/...tPath=/Shops/61863095/Products/SP-HO02-SSA002 springs, but they are also the most expensive. They work pretty well even at higher offroad speed.The hyperpros came with 25 oil, the others with 15 oil, if I remember correctly.

    By the way: all springs except of the Wirths are produced by Wilbers. The cheapest ones (Promoto) are not made in Germany but somewhere in the far East. And the Promotos are apparently just the old White Power springs under new label (White Power was funded by Wilbers). Then there is a medium priced line with the label Wilbers (which I haven’t tried out) and the premium line Hyperpro.

    http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_sacat=See-All-Categories&_from=R40&_nkw=gabelfedern nx250&_sop=15



    [​IMG]
  19. muzcuk

    muzcuk Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2011
    Oddometer:
    63
    Hello,

    I just started having trouble shifting from 1 or neutral to 2 on my nx. All other gears shift fine, but I really need to beat the crap out of the lever (pushing and pulling it in all directions) to get it to 2.

    Does anyone know where that might come from?

    Murat
  20. muddyrabbit

    muddyrabbit Lost Boy

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,908
    Location:
    Fugawee Land.
    Not sure she is ready to do it right away, but I will pass it along and have her get ahold of you.