NX250 Thread -- official ADV owners manual

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by valvecrusher, Mar 17, 2008.

  1. Orkodelamuerte

    Orkodelamuerte Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    80
    Location:
    Argentina, Cordoba
    Watch out for the mod u do with the exhaust... remember that the stock one is part of the frame, so u will have to compensate for that... otherwise, you will bend it...

    We will appreciate some pics as u go!! We are pics addicts!
  2. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    346
    Location:
    Germany
    After I got my AX1 I was thinking about getting decent tires. Unfortunately the AX1 has the same rare dimensions as the NX250, expensive and not available in modern rubber compounds. With my NX250 I solved the problem by adapting larger wheels (21/17 inch). Disadvantage of this approach: the seat height (especially with stronger shock/front springs) is getting strenuous.

    Since the AX1 is already more street oriented why not trying some street tires with smaller diameter?

    First approach: wheels from the Kawasaki 250 Ninja. The front rim fits with a El250 (260mm) disk and a XR650L break caliper. Unfortunately the hub of the Ninja wheel must be grinded off 6mm in order to get it centered in the AX1 / NX250 fork. And that would make hard if not impossible to get it past the German TüV – a pity though, I really like the design of the Ninja wheels.

    Second try: a front wheel from a Kreidler DD125 “Sumo”, size 2.50-17. This wheel fits plugandplay, so I mounted it on my NX250 (the AX1 is not ready yet), that explains the large front fender. First road tests are promising – but I got stronger front springs and a shorter shock from a NTV650 (which works very nice in the NX250, by the way).

    Because you have to keep in mind that the NX250 has already an extremely short wheelbase (1,35m / 53.1 in) and trail (89mm / 3.5 in). So if lowered only in front, the trail gets even shorter and it can get really unstable at higher speed, even dangerous :eek1 (believe me, no fun). To account for that, a smaller rear tire (eg 120/80 16) or a shorter shock is a must.

    [​IMG]
  3. victory80

    victory80 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2013
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    sf bay area california
    Scrambler66,

    Do you have more pics of your ax1 and nx? Love to see some for inspiration on my motard build!
  4. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    346
    Location:
    Germany

    I just started with the sumo conversion, so there is not much I can show right now. The most important thing for me was to figure out, if I can get a decent driveability with the small 17‘‘ front wheel.

    My NX250M (m= motard) will also be kinda old-fashioned – since I like the look of my Nixie I won’t change much except the wheels. An AX1 aluminum swing arm with rear disc brake was on my wish list, though – since I finally got a complete AX1, no sweat.

    [​IMG]

    The wheel on the pic is from a NSR125 with 130/70 17 tire – Heidenau /Continental make some nice “Sumo” tires in this size. Note that my Brit – AX1 came with a Supertrapp exhaust.

    If you could get a swing arm and rear brake of an European NX650 you could try this

    [​IMG]


    I already eschewed the original head lamp / odometer long ago for my “enduro” conversion and mounted parts from a KLX. Now just imagine smaller wheels and “sumo” fenders and there you go :D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  5. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    535
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    I have some NX stuff I'd like to get rid of, maybe someone here wants it? Shipping plus a buck or two for my tiime.

    Two brand new intake valves, valve guides and valve seals. If you are going to rebuild your head here's your stuff.

    Bad CDI. I fixed it once with the soldering iron, but didn't do all of it. Works for a while. Good for you to experiment on or fix as a back-up.

    I will put up some more stuff later. Also have some parts for sale in the flea market.
  6. Claytonroy

    Claytonroy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    288
    Location:
    Oregon
    Me too...just posted in the Flea Market for a Honda shop manual, a Sigma jet kit + K&N filter, an OEM decal for the headlight surround, etc.

    Thanks to the mods for letting me double post.....I am open to offers as well.

    :ricky
  7. Ratchdaddy

    Ratchdaddy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 1, 2006
    Oddometer:
    186
    Location:
    29 Palms, CA
    Ok I am in the middle of a clutch replacement. I looked at the excellent tutorial by IBJim and I have the manual open.

    For the 4 bolts that hold on the lifter plate I can find no mention of how far to tighten them down or what torque to tighten them to. Do they go all the way down or just down some until the clutch springs are compressed. The lock nut goes to 43lbs so I have that already.

    By the way the special socket to remove the locknut and the EBC Clutch removal tool can be found on fleabay for much cheaper than the OEM parts. I think I got both for about 50 bucks.
  8. MadDoc

    MadDoc Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    11
    Hi mate, what's the URL for that flea market? do they ship outside the US or just put seller and buyer into contact?

    Cheers from New Zealand

    BTW I have a 1988 AX-1 and the gear got stuck in 3 or 4. Sucks that you need to uninstall MOST of the bike in order to service the tranny...I spent almost 2 days just to remove the engine...Any advice re tranny repairs would be most welcome.
  9. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    535
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    Pay close attention to the location of all the washers/spacers if you take the transmisison shafts apart.

    What parts are bad in the gear box? I have an entire transmission in my spares.....

  10. Orkodelamuerte

    Orkodelamuerte Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    80
    Location:
    Argentina, Cordoba
    I wanted to share with you some pics of the work I´d been doing this weekend.

    First, I replaced the rear shock. What I managed to buy is the same thing it was installed before..

    It´s 32.5cm long from center to center; and 3cm for the brackets

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]



    I really tried to manufacture the bracket that holds the skid plate to the engine but I failed, so I ordered it from https://www.partzilla.com/ together with some other stuff:

    Spare blank Ignition key (only had one)
    a screen - oil filter (the square one)
    the oil dipstick (used to have a metal bolt there hehe..)
    the reserve tank for the radiator (mine was complete worn... really..)
    and the retainer that goes on the front wheel that makes the speedometer move (mine was smashed)

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG][​IMG]

    and some more stuff I dedicated a few minutes..

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    I´d been trying to blow out the brake caliper pistons to clean them, but failed to do so... I tried applying pressurized air through the fluid inlet, but nothing happened.. so if anybody knows a trick or two, please share...:ear:rofl
  11. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    346
    Location:
    Germany
    Great stuff - I just love reports of Nixies been rejuvenated, probably because I was always too lazy to do so myself :clap.
    I just can’t believe that you bought all that new stuff, it must have cost you a little fortune - but now you can call yourself a real NX-maniac :clap.

    Concerning the brake caliper – there is only method I know to get the pistons out of the caliper without ruining them – you have to refill the brake line with fluid and push the pistons out with the brake lever. Since usually only one piston is moving at a time and the other will still stuck, you should put a 8mm thick wooden board into the caliper to prevent that one piston is falling out of the caliper before the other one is even moving.

    Good luck! And by the way, the XR600/650 calipers are identical and easy and cheap to get ;-)
  12. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    535
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    If anyone needs any NX stuff, I have a complete running engine and about half of another engine along with other stuff. Keep those NX's running!
  13. MadDoc

    MadDoc Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    11
    :1drink:1drink:1drink
    Hi mate, it looks I need water pump - in particular shaft, mechanical seal, oil seal and O-ring.
    Any idea how to arrange shipping to New Zealand?
    Thanks
  14. valvecrusher

    valvecrusher tractus pro pensio™

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,764
    Location:
    Dos Circlos
    Remove caliper from the disc..
    Compress brake lever fully. Repeat.


    The fluid pressure will have much higher mechanical advantage over air pressure, and will LAUNCH those caliper pistons..
    (Best to have them a 'catch net' of some type, I've seen them fly 10meters more than once, don't lose an eye~)



    Re-fill the resevoir with brake fluid, pump them up, bleed the air...then, remove the caliper from the disc, and squeeze!
    let us know if it works!
  15. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    535
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    I may have an extra pump, but don't want to pull one off the running engine. The seals I wouldn't reuse. I'll see what I have.

  16. Kingkobaa

    Kingkobaa Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2011
    Oddometer:
    13
    Location:
    Finland
    From post number #4682 onward on page 313 there is talk about the 13kw limited power NX 250.
    I have Honda nx 250 1995 and I think it's the limited power versio MD25330 (IIG only Germany). The last owner said that the bike is 17kw, but somehow I have feeling it isn't.
    Today I cleaned my carburetor(PD6BLAH) and saw that It has #35 slow jet and #140 main jet. Since the original limited power NX has main jet #145 and #35 slow jet, this seems like the last owner had changed the main jet.

    Some more info:

    Carburetor on F, ED and SP type: Keihin PD6BG
    Carburetor on G type: Keihin PD6BH
    Carburetor on IIG type: Keihin PD6BJ

    Main jet on F, ED, SP and G type #140
    Main jet on IIG type #145
    Slow jet on F, ED and SP type #38
    Slow jet on G and IIG type #35

    Pilot screw initial opening
    F, ED and SP type 1 - 3/8 turns out
    G type 2 turns out
    IIG type 1 - 5/8 turns out


    My problem with the bike is that when I open the throttle full open quickly it will strutter(seems like the bike is going to die). My question is should I change the main jet back to #145?(The exhaust on my bike has been derestricted and there are some holes drilled to the airfilter box to ensure more air) So even though the bike might be 17kw, will the derestricted exhaust have so much impact that the bike doesn't run well when opening the throttle full open?
    Or could it be that the owner has changed the jets but not the insulator carb? What would be the best way to see if the insulator carb has also been changed?

    Thank you all in advance!
  17. Ratchdaddy

    Ratchdaddy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 1, 2006
    Oddometer:
    186
    Location:
    29 Palms, CA
    I have too many projects. I have the bike running but it still stumbles some when under load but as soon as it gets above 5K rpms it does good. My son is no longer interested in it, so even though I think it is a neat bike, I am going to unload it.

    I replaced the clutch, it is good now.

    I cleaned the tank and it was good. No leaks but it started to surface rust almost immediately. I probably need to use one of the coating treatments to stop the rust.

    Most of the plastics are there except the ones that cover the air cleaner and the opposite side. The turn signals all need replacing.

    I have the original engine. The valves were too far out to be adjusted. The bottom end was good. I replaced it with an engine from ebay.

    I still havent mastered the posting pics thing. I can try to work on it tomorrow. If you text me I can send you pics.

    I am locate in Southern California
    .
    Let me know if any of you guys are interested. If not, it goes to CL or ebay.

    760-285-1670
  18. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    535
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    If it helps your sale, I have the plastic cover for the air cleaner. Hit me up if you want it.


  19. IheartmyNx

    IheartmyNx Ihave2draft

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,859
    Location:
    Nashville TN, no chit, police state.
    Hi y'a, by'ya!!!
  20. stoppiepopper

    stoppiepopper n00b

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    3
    Location:
    Ireland
    Good man yourself looks like your havin fun Im irish aswell i rented a ax1 in thailand a few years back and fell in love with it i bought a nx250 dominator at christmas and its basically the same bike just not as flash as the ax but its a beauty aswell have a few things to do on it nothing major just wear and tear from our well maintained irish roads its good to see a fellow irishman on this thread best of luck with your bike man:D:D:D