NX250 Thread -- official ADV owners manual

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by valvecrusher, Mar 17, 2008.

  1. Sambucas

    Sambucas travelin.tk

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    Hi guys!

    Here we are again with a hairy question.

    Last week the mechanical seal on my waterpump started leaking heavily.

    I took the mechanical seal out, at least most of it, that is the ceramic disc, the spring and the rubber. But the metal cup thingie is still in my engine and I don't know how to get it out.

    The workshop manual tells me to takes out the whole waterpump shaft, but I really don't want to do that, because it needs special tools, which I don't have and I need new bearings, which I don't have (we are still traveling in Africa, Tanzania now and they just don't have these things here...). Also I am too afraid to damage my engine cover and/or the waterpump shaft itself.

    Does anyone have experience with this and knows a good trick to get the remaining metal cup out, without too much trouble?

    Many thanks in advance for any help! :)

    Greetings from Sao Hill, Tanzania (apparently the biggest saw mill in East Africa!)
  2. valvecrusher

    valvecrusher tractus pro pensio™

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    ALERT:
    someone PLEASE help Sambucas.



    Sambucas :wave
    Can you supply a picture of 'what you have in front of you'?

    sometimes a picture can explain 10000 words?








    MP350:
    those little carb jets are very delicate....if you've cleaned them with wire, you might have damaged the articulate surface(bell) of the opening(hole)


    even the flow of fuel through the jet has a slight[SIZE=2] abrasive effect, thus making the [SIZE=2]'sp[SIZE=2]ray pa[SIZE=2]ttern' of vaporized fu[SIZE=2]el un[SIZE=2]even..
    [SIZE=2]or even [SIZE=2]failing to at[SIZE=2]omize completely...





    [SIZE=2]You know[SIZE=2] how water flowing over a rock eventually wears it down[SIZE=2]?
    [SIZE=2]Well, fuel does the same thing to a [SIZE=2]fuel 'jet' inside the carb....after 10[SIZE=2]s of 1000s of miles(or k/m[SIZE=2]'s)

    there is a [SIZE=2]gro[SIZE=2]ove being worn into the jet, itself..[/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]

    [SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][IMG]http://www.factorypro.com/images/needle_jets/needlejet,wornVL1500,Dscn2922%20%281%29.JPG[/IMG][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2][SIZE=2]
    [SIZE=2][SIZE=2]a cleaning won't restore atomization characters[SIZE=2] to a worn [SIZE=2]jet oriface...


    [SIZE=2]That's why the service books say replace jets after xxx miles/km's...



    [SIZE=2]I realized this fact after using a sandb[SIZE=2]laster one day, and a man came up and said, well, fuel does the same thing to carb jets after [SIZE=2]seeing the damage to the [SIZE=2]air/sand 'jet' inside the blast [SIZE=2]gun..




    [SIZE=2]but this picture [I]should [/I]h[SIZE=2]elp demo[SIZE=2]nstrate the issue..






    [SIZE=2]Sometimes, 'clean' isn't going to fix[SIZE=2].....ahem..... [/SIZE]-[B]worn out[/B]-[/SIZE]
    [/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]

  3. Sambucas

    Sambucas travelin.tk

    Joined:
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    Hi valvecrusher, thanks for your help! :)

    Sorry, I don't have a picture yet. Also the internet connection here i quite slow, so I don't know if I even can upload a picture...

    But I got a bit further after talking to another motorbiker (Imre, a fantastic guy from Estonia, who put us up while we are trying to get the replacement seal).

    It seems to be necessary to take the waterpump shaft out to take the metal cup of the mechanical seal out, but Imre said that it would not be too much of a drama if we heat the crankcase cover. Then the shaft and bearing should come out easily, with the metal cup.

    Then we inspect the bearing, but new grease/oil on the bearing and install the shaft again with a new mechanical seal.

    Does that sound OK?

    Thanks in advance! :)

    PS. I will try to put up a picture just now...
  4. KURT LAIN

    KURT LAIN loco

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    Hola Sambucas, mira yo acá en mi país le saque la bomba de agua porque perdía y se mezclaba el agua con el aceite, cuando la saque vi que estaba roto el sello, buscando y buscando al final encontré de un auto y se lo coloque.
    El sello que utilice es el del MITSUBISHI SAPPORO y quedo barbaro.
    Otras de las cosas que el hice a la bomba de agua es cambiarle el rodamiento que tiene, le saque el que trae de fabrica, le rellene el eje y le coloque dos rulemanes que son mas fáciles de conseguir con un separador y quedo muy bien.
    Espero que te sirva mi comentario.
  5. Sambucas

    Sambucas travelin.tk

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    [​IMG]
  6. Sambucas

    Sambucas travelin.tk

    Joined:
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    Hola Kurt Lain,

    Muchas gracias por tu respuesta! Hablo un poco Espanol (de Argentina!) pero necesitaba Google Translate para entender todas las cosas technicas. Pero ahora, si entiendo! :)

    Que bueno que el sello del Mitshubishi Sapphoro tambien anda en el Honda NX 250! :) Aca en Afrique no hay Mitshubishi Sapphoro's igual, pero se puede intentar otros vehiculos, parece! Que bien idea!

    Iqual parece que vamos a tener el sello original del Honda NX 250 mandado a Tanzania desde Holanda. Asi que vamos a tener el sello y eso no va a ser el tema.

    El tema es que no soy seguro como sacar el eje. Vos usaste calor para calentar el cubierto para sacar el eje???

    Me parece bien aviso para usar dos rulemanes cuando pongo el eje de nuevo. Voy a ver si puedo hacerlo tambien.

    Espero que puedas contarme como sacaste el eje... Gracias!

    Saludos!


    Hi Kurt Lain,

    Thank you very much for your answer! I speak a little Spanish (from Argentina!) But I needed Google Translate to understand all technical things. But now, I understand! :)

    Good thing the seal of a Mitshubishi Sapphoro will also work in the Honda NX 250! :) Here in Africa there are no Mitshubishi Sapphoro's for that matter, but you can try other vehicles to source seals, it seems! That's a good idea!

    Anyway, it seems that we will have the original seal of the Honda NX 250 sent to Tanzania from Holland. So we will have the seal and that will not be the issue.

    The issue is that I'm not sure how to get the shaft out of the crankcase cover. Did you use heat to heat the cover and get the shaft out???

    Sounds good to use two bearings when you put the shaft in again. I'll see if I can do it too.

    I hope you can tell me how you got the shaft out of the engine cover... Thank you!

    Greetings!
  7. Orkodelamuerte

    Orkodelamuerte Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    80
    Location:
    Argentina, Cordoba
    Translation:

    (...) took apart the water pump because it had a leak and water was interacting wih the oil. When I disassembled it, I noticed the gasket was worn, and after some seeking I found a car gasket that suited just fine. The gasket I used came from a MITSUBISHI SAPPORO.

    Another thing that I did to the water pump is that I replaced the stock bearings. Basically, I refilled the axis so that I could fit in some brand new easy-to-get bearings and washer and it worked just fine (...)

    :deal
  8. Sambucas

    Sambucas travelin.tk

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    Hi MadDoc,
    I just tightened my 'steering bearing adjustment nut' (that is the preload nut you mean, I presume?) today! :)

    I did remove the handlebar, because it is not too much work and it was a bit in the way. I took out the 4 bolts holding the handlebar and just had the handlebar hanging 5 cm more to the back. That gave me much more room to untighten the 'steering stem nut' and to take out those 4 bolts was only 2 minutes, really.

    But I am sure that you can do it with the handlebar attached. But then your spanner to untighten the 'steering stem nut' has to be low enough. (mine wasn't, because I used a thick adjustable spanner, but I have done it that way with a normal spanner.)

    When you go adjusting the 'steering bearing adjustment nut', I think it actually helps to have the handlebar attached again, at least that's what I did, because it makes it easier to judge the right tension on the bearing.

    I 'adjusted' or actually tightened (my nut was really way too loose) my 'steering bearing adjustment nut' by putting a screwdriver in the big grooves and slamming the screwdriver with a hammer. Not very charming maybe, but very efficient when you don't have the right tool and don't have enough space (because I didn't even take off my plastic side covers, etc.)

    Beware of overtightening of the steering bearing adjustment nut, because when you overtighten it, you will end up next to the road on the first strong turn that you will ride... I have heard bad stories from guys who over-tightened their steering bearings, if only by a little. Better a little bit too slack, than a little bit too tight. (Before today my bearings have been extremely slack for 2 years and it never really bothered me, except when braking hard, when I could feel the excessive play really well.)

    Happy adjusting and good luck! :)
  9. KURT LAIN

    KURT LAIN loco

    Joined:
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    Lanus, Argentina
    Acá están las fotos de como desarme, haber si te sirven para que te orientes.
    El ruleman va clavado en la tapa.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  10. Orkodelamuerte

    Orkodelamuerte Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Argentina, Cordoba
    So... couldn't leave u hanging there without telling u what finally happened.. I feel rather ashamed for telling this... all this time thinking that it was such a complex issue, and I was not seeing the big picture here... so, the winner is...... Valvecrusher!!!!!

    I took out the seat, took a there-u-are glance at the airway only to find a small plastic piece of sth screwed to the entrance and blocking half the airway.. It was so neat that I thought it was part of the bike.. so the previous owner must have done it (dont know why). Took it out in 15 seconds and voila!! Forgot about tearing the carb apart for 87th time or anything else..

    I'll soon post some pics of the improvement I've done on refurbishing my nixie..

    Thanks to all for the brainstorming... this forum rocks!
  11. valvecrusher

    valvecrusher tractus pro pensio™

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    GREAT! glad you are riding and not putting up with that issue any longer!



    I find it completely AWESOME, and also remarkable that you posted that 'symptom', and the very same/very next day i actually duplicated it by pure accident.



    It was strange knowing that (I) had that problem, and was reading you describing the exact same symptoms....
    LOL, or I'm 100% wrong





    and man, let me say, if you (anyone out there) has those symptoms, i can't imagine that trying to ride that NX would be ANY fun at all...





    but i have had Honda's act very similar when having a bad 'Pulse Generator' ...


    Luckily, mine was riding fine(as usual) and when i pulled the seat, my registration papers got sucked over the airbox air inlet...


    so i went from riding, to 'missing engine, pinging, and knocking, and sputtering and jerking'... and, the only difference in my case was that i popped off the seat and i guess, knocked the papers loose..?





    Good times!
  12. Orkodelamuerte

    Orkodelamuerte Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Ok, so now that all my engine/carb issues are over, I invested some time and effort on getting it pretty... so I went from this...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    to this...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Getting close... :rofl
  13. Sambucas

    Sambucas travelin.tk

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    Muchas gracias, Kurt Lain! Si, me sirven tus fotos! :) Todavia estoy esperando para los partes, pero en unos dias puedo sacar el eje tambien! Saludos desde Africa.
  14. Sambucas

    Sambucas travelin.tk

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    Te felicito! Muy guapa!!! :D
  15. mp350

    mp350 Adventurer

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    Jun 21, 2010
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    18
    Valvecrusher...From the start I installed all new parts, the only old part used was the float and slide, only used wire on the carb passages. This weekend I will remove the carb and ry the bottom slot on the needle. First test drive ran great but I never tried to go over 45 mph, next day went for a ride and would not go over 55 mph. And now it will only idle with choke on the die if I try to give it gas. It leads me to think it's getting to much air and nt enough gas.
  16. valvecrusher

    valvecrusher tractus pro pensio™

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    I never use 'wire' on anything in the carb...only compressed air, or by dipping/boiling...


    NX2's jet needle is adjustable?



    Did you go with factory carb main 'jet' sizing? or did you change jet sizes?
  17. less=more

    less=more n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2013
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    4
    Hello Sambucas, I have found a part on the internet that should fit as a mechanical seal for the Honda NX250. It's a part of Tour max and should be the same as it's used in the NSR125.

    Here's the link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mechanica...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3a81657aa1

    After contacting the seller, the dimensions of the part (OE: 19217-pa5-003) are:
    outer diameter: 30mm & 35mm to outer ridge
    inner diameter: 14.25mm
    width: 16.4mm

    Could you kindly let us know if the sizes matches with the existing Honda seal when you take it apart or compare it with your new received seal?
    When a match is present we'll have a partnumber to order as well (Honda stock is slinking for this model) in case of waterpump leakage.
  18. trailKing

    trailKing Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Colorado
    Finally got the NX out on an honest ride this spring now that the weather is nice and the passes are opening up here in the Rockies!
    OEM Honda CDI fixed the issues I had with the bike last year. Starts, runs, and charges like a champ! Only issue I have now is a faint noise from the front wheel. I'm guessing its a wheel bearing going out? I can't hear it all the time and only at slow speed.
    [​IMG]
  19. larry31

    larry31 Back Roads Explorer

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    Great pix. I love to get my bike "immortalized" in different places.
  20. muzcuk

    muzcuk Adventurer

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    Hey guys! I am using 15 weight fork oil with my old fork springs with 1" preloaders. Now my Hagon progressive springs have arrived and I am wondering what grade oil I should use with them. I'd like to get it right first time as fork oil is expensive.

    Do you think I should go down to 5, or maybe 10? Any experience? Comments?