Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Northeast - Greater Flugistan and home of the carp' started by LusterBroil, Mar 14, 2006.
OK let's see if this works.
we thought you meant stuck, yours looks to be resting
The show was meh... I left after 2 hours on Saturday (packed), some nice bikes though and I loved the GP section.
I left to go buy a 74' Suzuki GT250, I should have probably stayed at the show hehe this thing needs work, but I can't wait to have it running again. I have no idea where to even get tires for this thing, but ill figure it out. Just got the POR-15 today and hopefully Neftali can paint it.
Sorry to hear about the outsourcing guys, it's a tough thing to deal with.
Who's your paint guy (is Neftali on the forums)?
I'm POR-ing the tank from my 78 GS1000, though I've been holding off out of inertia and a vague fear of messing it up somehow.
I'd love to see a photo of the 250. Holler if you need any help as well. If it isn't too different than its big brothers, I have a ton of experience "fixing" those old zukes from my 850 (I like to think of it as learning by breaking).
damn that's some soup.
that makes more sense. i don't know why, but when i read "stuck upright" i pictured it at a 90 degree angle to the ground with the front wheel pointing at the sky
nef is bushwick klr
Check out my writeup, it's super easy to do. This was my first time and I used EVAPORUST first which was not needed, so disregard.
Ill post some pics, I would be down to work on it asap, but I don't have time at the moment so im sending it over to a mechanic I know to get it running. The story behind it is my co-worker bought it 4 years ago from the original owner who bought it in 1974 and lived upstate, he kept it in great shape and ran it from time to time. My co-worker then ran it hard for a few years and got a divorce and left the bike at his previous wife's house for 3 years in Brooklyn. It sat there for 3 years and I just bought it. It's actually in great shape, but needs the typical things looked over etc... Ill let you know if you want to meet up one of these days, looking forward to the 2-stroke fun.
I was about 50 miles in, and 5 to 7 more before paved roads. No point in trying to turn back, just press on. The water had been flooding across the trail for the previous mile, creating a greasy slick surface. I fell over a good dozen times at least before finally riding it into that deeper section. I took the picture not knowing if I would even see the bike again. The rest of the day and evening was quite scenic but I was in survival mode by that time so took no other pictures.
I did mange to get back to the bike the next day and, with some help, to a carwash and then the highway back to Vegas where I was working.
I really like the bike (04-650), may replace it with the current model.
Are you guys interested in HID kits? The brand is o-nex. I have a small batch. Would love to sell those for a great price(lower than ebay). These are dual pack(two hids) with slim ballast.
You can find more info on http://www.o-nex.com/Products.html
Different color and bulb type available. Can bring these to ear inn.
i am interested, sure. only kit i've had experience with is from ddmtuning. any idea how these compare?
if not, tell me if there's any kind of warranty on parts and what kind of options you have in teh batch you own
- 35 watt only or 55 watt as well?
- what options re: color? i want white, maybe touch of yellow, no blue. i like seeing.
- do you have hi/lo? or one setting only?
I'm also interested, wanting two, slim ballasts and if possible angel eyes around the bulb. I was going to run the angel eyes as daytime running lights.
I haven't found any direct comparison reviews between the two companies quality wise. They mostly compare the color output in a specific color temperature range.
But I did find some reviews for o-nex in car forums. They are mostly positive.
These o-nex are all hi-low set up. Depends on bulb type, there is bi-xenon with moving shield mechanism. While some bulb types are hi halogen, low xenon.
color range from warm 3000k to cold 12000k.
these are 35 watts with 1 year warranty from manufacture.
also like to add that hid kits are so common these days. I always have this thought all aftermarket kits are from the same factory with different labels.
this kit wont give you angel eyes. Projectors are not included.
included in package are 2 bulbs, 2 ballasts, accessories for installation and instruction manual.
do you have dimensions on the ballasts?
I will get those measured soon.
Let the questions come. Or pm me, I will post answers for all the related questions in a single thread post.
Why don't you guys use electrolytic rust removal? I think it's way better than POR 15--hook the tank up to a battery charger, plate a sacrificial anode with rust, and use concrete sealer to seal the inside of it. I've had terrific luck with that method...
can you tell me more about using concrete sealer? Is it for the final step? I am thinking to clean up my tank. I've made a power supply to use the electrolytic method. Just have to figure out how to seal the tank.
dont bother looking for sodium carbonate (arm and hammer washing powder)--it is impossible to find. instead, take sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and heat it in aqueous soln. to about 180F. The carbon boils off and you get sodium carbonate.
once you are done with the treatment, flush the tank with water. Then pour in phosphoric acid (this is concrete sealer, or actual phosphoric acid) for an hour or two. Then flush with baking soda solution to neutralize the acid. then water. then acetone to absorb the water. then dry the whole thing very very well. Then slosh ATF around inside it.
Big, possibly flammable and corrosive mess:
ATF for extra sealing:
How long did the treatment take? what kind of power source did you use? My power supply is actually a ATX power supply converted to a bench tester. It's got 12v and 5v source. max output of the unit is about 380W. do you think this will work?
I also have a battery tender jr. Not sure if that will work. others had said that it has to connect to a real battery in order to initiate the charge.