Odyssey PC535 died

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Plane Dr, Dec 25, 2012.

  1. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    If I remember, my '02 1150 was about 7mA (.007A) key-off current draw.

    A 1200 I measured was a little more, but there is a caveat to measuring the key-off draw. The accessory power port on the rear subframe of the 1200 remains energized for some amount of time after the ignition key is switched off. When the accessory power port is energized the key-off current draw is much higher.


    <BR>
    #21
  2. Plane Dr

    Plane Dr Been here awhile

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    Good point I waited till the processor cycled once but not necesarily long enough for the socket to shut down. Back to the garage....
    #22
  3. Emoto

    Emoto Sure, why not?

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    2005 model, taken from perhaps the first batch, released to me in April of 2004.

    Post in this thread, which you might find interesting: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238232

    Ok, using this meter http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search I made some measurements with the circuit to the battery broken, and the meter in between closing the circuit. Digital meters are hard to read for ranges, but I tried to notice the high and low.

    The bike itself (1st release 2005 R1200GS) with no accessories:

    5.1 - 6.7 mA.

    The accessory loop, broken down into components:

    Just the fog and driving lights: 0.00 mA
    Chatterbox GMRSX-1, connected, but turned off: 130 mA :yikes
    MixIt2 amplifier, connected, but turned off: 13.56 mA

    So, if you start to add all that up, it makes for a serious draw. :baldy

    Clearly, I MUST disconnect the Chatterbox and MixIt2 amp when the bike is going to be parked. I would not have guessed that turning them off was insufficient, but the meter doesn't lie. Silly me.

    So, if I leave the accessories disconnected except when using them (which is very easy to do) my lowest draw will be 5.1 to 6.7 mA. That seems about normal, does it not?
    #23
  4. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    You should read less than .008A (8mA) after a period of time.
    If not:
    I have a friend with a 2005 that had the same problem. It turned out to be a problem with the software. The bike was updated by the dealer and the issue resolved. Apparently there were a lot of early 05's that had that problem.
    #24
  5. Plane Dr

    Plane Dr Been here awhile

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    Thanks everyone! Nice to have actual testing of other bikes.

    So I spent the day mucking about. The Odyssey after a deep discharge (possibly too deep) it now tests 265 cca vs 230 cca a couple days ago. It also holds a solid 12.8 volts. The process was to draw down to 10.5-11 volts then recharge at 10+ amps, then trickle charge at 1.5-2 amps for 6-8 hours. I had wired my LED spot to it and it sucked way low. So it got a 2 stage (3.5-4 hour total) 10 amp charge then the trickle.

    The starter post was 8 years old. So cleaned and retorqued. It was okay for corrosion and wasn't loose but wasn't clean and tight.

    The centech AP2 was "leaking" on the switched side of the circuit. It was always 6 ish volts. i only noticed as the Piaa switch LED was still on after the circuit was supposed to be off. I Disassembled and cleaned it, essentially just brushing it down with a dry toothbrush and paintbrush.

    End result 6-7 milliamperes for the main system, 13-14 for the centech circuit. 6 milliamperes of which go to the new voltmeter and clock. 6-7 into the ether, relays, hard wired transformers etc.

    Ill see what happens. It spins up faster than it has anytime since I bought it. Ill see if the battery holds. But I am around 1/3 the previous draw. So this should get me 7-10 days and still start. It sits that long only if I am traveling for work so it should be good. I may see what the dealer costs to verify the software rev level. Mine is a 2004 build and is a 2004 based on all the details, 2005 though on the data plate.

    Hopefully some good data here for someone else in the future.
    #25
  6. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    Great to hear your progress.

    If you really want to bring the battery to full capacity you can do the following:
    (you will need an 18v current limited power supply)

    Out of the Odyssey manual:

    1. Bring the battery to room temperature—25°C (77°F)—if it
    is not already there.
    2. Measure the open circuit voltage (OCV). Continue to step
    3 if it measures at least 6.00V.
    3. Charge the battery for 24 hours using a constant current
    charge that is 5% of the 20-hour capacity of the battery
    (5A for a 100Ah battery). The charger should be able to
    provide a driving voltage as high as 18.00V. Monitor the
    battery temperature; discontinue charging if the battery
    temperature rises by more than 20°C.
    4. Allow the battery to stand for 18 hours after completion
    of step 3.
    5. Perform a capacity test on the battery and record the
    amp-hours delivered. The longer the discharge the more
    reliable the result. This is Cycle 1.
    6. Repeat steps 3 through 5. The capacity noted in step 5
    is the Cycle 2 capacity. Proceed to step 7 only if Cycle
    2 capacity is greater than Cycle 1 capacity; otherwise
    replace the battery.
    7. Repeat steps 3 through 5 to get Cycle 3 capacity and
    proceed to step 8 only if Cycle 3 capacity is equal to or
    more than the capacity in Cycle 2. Replace the battery
    if Cycle 3 capacity is less than Cycle 2 capacity. If the
    capacity is greater than or equal to 80% of the rated
    capacity of the battery it may be returned to service.
    8. Recharge the battery and put back in service if Cycle 3
    capacity is equal to or exceeds Cycle 2 capacity.

    I have managed to bring back several "failed" Odysseys using this method, it works really well
    #26
  7. Plane Dr

    Plane Dr Been here awhile

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    I looked at that and did the closest I could to it without excessive equipment. What I did is similar I am considering a couple more deep cycles but my initial concern was sorting the bike side as well while I still had time.
    #27
  8. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    I've always been impressed by the mystical practices associated with Odyssey batteries.


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    #28
  9. Gezerbike

    Gezerbike Hey Rocky...........

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    Everybody knows this is nowhere......
    I only got 2 years of college in, so when it came time to replace my second BMW gel battery that had given 5 years of service, I bought anudder one for my 1200 GT. Plugged in the Battery Tender Jr and done. I now know why they named them Odyssey...........
    #29
  10. lhendrik

    lhendrik Truffle Rustler

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    Yeah, well I'm pretty sure the battery in the Apollo 13 spacecraft was an Odyssey. This is absurd.
    #30
  11. WindSailor

    WindSailor Been here awhile

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    Yep. My next battery that I wanted to buy was the Odyssey - but this kind of put the damper on it for sure. They make chargers specific for the Odyssey and if that don't get it - maybe it is time to look forward to the Lithium battery after all.
    #31
  12. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Best charger, and only needed one for the Odyssey:

    [​IMG]

    Once in a while you might want to put it on a Battery Tender Junior if you are not doing the above. But just for a few hours.

    Otherwise no charger needed.

    Jim :brow
    #32
  13. WindSailor

    WindSailor Been here awhile

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    :clap

    OK... I give in... can't beat that for sure... :D
    #33
  14. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    What you have to remember here is that most any other type of battery would in the recycling pile.
    With the Odyssey you have a very good change of recovering it.
    I have installed all kinds of batteries in ATV's for remote sites and In local bikes.
    The Odyssey seems to last the best, and no I am not a dealer or affiliated with them in any way.
    Be sure to do your research on Lithiums....lot's are switching back.
    #34
  15. WindSailor

    WindSailor Been here awhile

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    I've been watching the Lithium threads fairly closely and I'm not exactly sold on them just yet - from my understanding the GS is one of the few bikes that run at 14.4v, enough to keep the cells somewhat balanced in the Lithium battery.

    I'll still keep the Odyssey as my next choice for a non-Lithium type of battery... as long as I don't have to go through that recovery process while maintaining it with a approved charger in the meantime.

    Thanks for posting your reply on how to fully recover an Odyssey battery. Good info.
    #35
  16. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    You are welcome.
    You 2011 GS may run at 14.4v. I would monitor with a good quality DVM to be sure.
    The Oilheads all run at 13.9 to 14.1 which is low even for an Odyssey. Years ago I modified my regulator for 14.7v output to accommodate charging the Odyssey properly. Even with that I still equalize at 14.9v+ every 2-3 months.(not mandatory but extends life)
    AGM Batteries do better with a higher charge voltage.
    #36
  17. Plane Dr

    Plane Dr Been here awhile

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    The jury is out I'll see how the recovery went. If it worked I'll be a hard core convert. If not, I still have to say it has been a good battery. The next few months of cool starts here will decide.
    #37
  18. STUFF2C

    STUFF2C We Ain't Left Yet!!

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    My Battery sounded a little flat this weekend, so I just ordered a 535 here for $105 seemed like a deal to me. they sent me a code to for another 2% off. not sure if it will still work for anyone else but its> 2offtotal give it a try.
    looks like my snapper mower will get the old battery and i wont have to pull start it anymore, its been waiting on a new donor battery for a while.

    And after reading about three hrs of battery threads i hope i made the right choice.

    the battery thats in there now is so old i forgot what it is, i DO use a Battery Tender Plus most of the time. I really need to look because I think i bought it at an auto parts store in AL on a winter trip.
    #38