Official Nighthawk thread

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by eteller, Dec 24, 2006.

  1. AZbiker

    AZbiker Crunkin' with crackers

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    Also make sure the boots going from the carb to the airbox are soft rubber--exposure to the elements hardens the material and then you won't get a good seal. Also the manifold from the carb to the motor shouldn't be cracked--that can also let air in.

    The reason it runs good on the choke is that you're running lean. Either this is the result of a plugged pilot jet (just buy a new jet when you get the carb apart, only costs $5-7), or air entering the system at another place besides the air filter.
  2. Tourniquet

    Tourniquet Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2011
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    75
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    NYC
    96 nighthawk 750 - making some strange noises when I am starting from a rest. There is a definite "ka-klunk-a-lunk" at the end of the clutch pull just as the bike is fully engaged in first gear. I know the clutch needs to be replaced but would it make that kind of noise?

    Also is there anything else I should replace when doing a clutch besides:
    friction plates and clutch plates, the 4 springs, oil, clutch gasket
  3. AZbiker

    AZbiker Crunkin' with crackers

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    Clutch steels are probably fine--check for thickness using calipers or micrometer and check for flatness using piece of glass and feeler gauges.

    Never heard a clutch make that noise, but heard a few chains do that because they are so worn out they are slipping on the sprockets.

    Next step is the chain breaking and one of 3 things will happen:

    1. Chain breaks and falls on ground stranding you.
    2. Chain breaks and wraps around front sprocket, breaking motor cases and stranding you.
    3. Chain breaks and wraps around rear wheel, ceasing movement of wheel and stranding you.
  4. 51D7H3K1D

    51D7H3K1D n00b

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2012
    Oddometer:
    9
    I ended up buying the Hawk. :D Turned out to be a 1992 instead of a 1994. Are there any real differences? In my understanding they are all virtually the same.

    Anyway, I ended up getting a 1992 Honda Nighthawk 250 in classic Honda red AND a Puch Maxi Sport moped :evil (not running, thrown in for free) for the lovely price of $500! I'm super excited to get everything up and running.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    the middle bike is my dad's 1981 Honda Passport C70 :wink:
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Thanks for the information guys! I plan on cleaning the carb out, and possible putting in new rubbers and jets if need be.

    Are there any good rebuild kits out there? I've only seen Keyster ones on eBay, which I have read are bad quality.
  5. FocusPlayer

    FocusPlayer Minstrel on a Cycle

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    70
    Location:
    East TN
    Well I sold my NIghthawk 750... I miss it.. even my WIFE misses it. She says it was WAY better looking than my funny Red PC800 -- but the PC is a better regular to/from work bike and more cumfy on a 3 + hour play run... so... no room in the garage for 2 bikes. < pause for sympaty >

    I hope you folks see it's new owner soon. Young Master William seems to be a fine fellow - and my bike is hard to miss...

    I'll check in from time to time - I hope I get to stay an Honorararary member <G>
  6. stinkycheezmonky

    stinkycheezmonky Deep Fried Monkey

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2008
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    93
    Location:
    Winchester, VA
    Yay, I get to join the club! Picked this up tonight:
    [​IMG]

    Towed home 1.5hrs...with a Miata. It was interesting, and I intend to never do it again :lol3
    [​IMG]
  7. jspringator

    jspringator Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    473
    Location:
    Versailles, KY
    Is that a u-haul trailer? If so, how was it. I owned a Miata for years. I bet that was some ride! I now have a BMW 3 series convertible. I put a hitch on it, but haven't towed anything yet. Those U-Hauls look pretty slick.
  8. stinkycheezmonky

    stinkycheezmonky Deep Fried Monkey

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    The trailer itself was actually pretty nice, just a little heavy for my car. The ramp was easy to use and kind of spring-loaded so it didn't just drop to the ground when you unhook it. There was a notch in the front specifically for a motorcycle tire too, kind of holds it in place. Enough D-rings to strap pretty much anything down and rode fairly nice. Anything with more than like 150hp should be able to tow it just fine, so I'm sure your BMW wouldn't have a problem :)

    For reference, this was the 5'x9' open trailer with ramp from Uhaul. Cost me $25 to rent it for the night. I had OODLES of room, and probably could have gotten away with the 5'x8' which was quite a bit smaller, but also doesn't have a ramp.
  9. Tourniquet

    Tourniquet Adventurer

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    Thanks for the info. Chain is less than a year old with 10k or less miles on it. The rear sprocket looks good could it be the front one. I heard there was a bearing in the clutch that might get noisy so I will replace that as well this weekend.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
  10. Tourniquet

    Tourniquet Adventurer

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    So I tried to replace my clutch this weekend. There was a bolt on the shaft that held all the disks in. The bolt seemed to require a special key and also a it had a piece of metal bent into a groove.

    I didn't think I needed any special "key's" to just replace the friction plates. Has anyone replaced a clutch on a 90's 750 NH?
  11. RABBIT170

    RABBIT170 CB750 Adventurer

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    Feb 3, 2011
    Oddometer:
    111
    Location:
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Hey guys,
    I'm looking to get the V&H's pipes for my 99 750 (and a K&N filter), I know it will need a jet kit, I plan on getting it installed and tuned on a Dyno. So what jet kit should I get? or should I just see what the Dyno shop recommends? I would really like them to tune it so the pipes do not turn blue.

    I know dynojet sell a stage 1, but i would really like it to be a stage 2.
    Any thoughts?

    thanks
  12. ®êšïš†ø®

    ®êšïš†ø® Crash-Resistant

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    VA NRV
    Its called a Castle Nut, and needs a Castle Wrench to turn it. I borrowed the wrench from a local mechanic. If you're handy, you could make it out of a 32(?)mm socket, as I've seen done before. The metal that's bent into the groove is a locking device and will have to be replaced.

    You do have a repair manual, yes? :permazot
  13. ®êšïš†ø®

    ®êšïš†ø® Crash-Resistant

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    Stage 1 is generally for stock setup, to make it run less 'lean'. You may have to get individual jets (instead of a kit) if a stage 2 isnt available. Havent personally seen many webpages on re-jetting a nighthawk, and figuring it out on your own could get pricey. I would totally work with your dyno shop.

    And keep up posted on what you come up with!
  14. Deadly

    Deadly Asphalt Adventurer!

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    Excelsior Springs, MO


    It looks like our Nighthawk 750's are starting to lose some value. :*sip*


    .
  15. AZbiker

    AZbiker Crunkin' with crackers

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    Stock pipes don't turn blue because they are double-walled.

    So what exactly does a Stage 1 and Stage 2 mean to you?
  16. Meter Man

    Meter Man Living on a prayer

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    My bet is the the pilot jet. You should be able to pull the carb, clean the carb, replace the pilot jet in a few hours if you are slow, an hour if you have done it before.
  17. Purcell69

    Purcell69 Mors ex Tenebris

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    Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
    I need some help troubleshooting a no-start issue with my 1985 CB700SC. The other day when riding home from work, I stopped to fill the tank about 15 miles from home. The bike had been running flawlessly for the past 30 miles. When I went to restart the engine, I push the start button and nothing happened. The headlight dropped out of circuit, but no click from the starter relay. Everything else worked as it should. I tried to push start, but there were no signs of life.

    I have the bike home now and have tried cleaning the start button with electrical parts cleaner. No change. I can jump between the starter solenoid and the + terminal on the starter motor, with the key on and the clutch pulled, only the have the motor crank over but no spark. The Run/Stop switch is in the "Run" position and does not get used.

    Suggestions?

    -Joe
  18. Ailkel

    Ailkel Chickie

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    Oklahoma
    Hi Joe,

    Have you checked the fuses and the fuse block? I have seen some really weird things on motorcycles.

    Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk 2
  19. Purcell69

    Purcell69 Mors ex Tenebris

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    Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
    Yep, I checked those while I was waiting for the wife with the truck and trailer.

    I was playing with the test light this morning and found that with the key on, clutch switch bypassed, and the start button pushed, I only get power to one of the two poles that should be powered when the start button is pushed. I looks like it is a bad start button/switch.

    -Joe
  20. Purcell69

    Purcell69 Mors ex Tenebris

    Joined:
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    Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
    The "start" button is bad. I picked up a momentary switch from the auto parts store and wired it in to the right switch harness. The bike starts and runs perfectly again. I just need a more permanent solution, since this switch is not weather proof. I bought a used right switch assembly on E-Bay that will get me back to OE, but it's still almost 30 years old. I am thinking about trying to install the starter push button from a newer Nighthawk in the 1985 assembly. At least then I would have a new switch.

    -Joe